Gambia - Anyone been?
Discussion
We went in November last year. It was a last minute job and we ended up in a bit of a dump. Coco Beach looked reasonable, though.
If you're used to Western standards of living, you will be in for a culture shock. Gambia is charming and the people can be very friendly, but it is also very poor as far as the general population goes. The wildlife is stunningly abundant, though the beaches are a touch hit and miss.
Almost all the restaurants serving local dishes will be differing qualities of the same thing. Stew based dishes with 'lamb' are popular. There aren't many what you'd call 'quality' places to eat, though if you look you will find them. Wine of any standard is hard to come by. The Butchers Shop in Fajara is excellent (food and the wine), it's close to the various embassies and the golf course, so gets demand from a wide variety of nationalities.
The markets at Serekunda and Banjul are worth visiting, though if I were you I would use one of the Green Taxi guys as a guide. There are lots and lots and lots of tourist spotters in the markets who will either harass you until a confrontation or single you out for a spot of theft. Locals telling them to f
k off has much more bearing and the places are so busy, you'll know what I mean when you're there.
This pic is the street outside Serekunda market. Inside it's like that, but tiny walkways with everything you can imagine (and smell).
It's definitely a place of contrast....
This is the beach by our hotel:
And this is where fish are smoked as they come off the fishing boats in Banjul:
You WILL get MOBBED and it will be CONSTANT by guys on the street who want to sell you anything or take you to a restaurant. It is so bad, that you will more than likely find it hard to bite your tongue after more than a week of it. My OH and I are fair skinned and wear factor 9 million sun cream, which exaggerates the hassling, as the locals think you've just got off the plane and ripe for picking- which loses its gloss on day 12.
If you like the idea of rough and ready and viewing an entirely different and certainly not 1st World culture, go for it. I'm glad we went, and really enjoyed catching the locals buses and wandering around the place on foot, but the locals battling for your business on a second by second basis prevents you having much opportunity to truly relax. I would have loved to have headed up river for a few days, where tourism gives way to people earning a crust from the land and the true feel of the place can shine through.
If you're used to Western standards of living, you will be in for a culture shock. Gambia is charming and the people can be very friendly, but it is also very poor as far as the general population goes. The wildlife is stunningly abundant, though the beaches are a touch hit and miss.
Almost all the restaurants serving local dishes will be differing qualities of the same thing. Stew based dishes with 'lamb' are popular. There aren't many what you'd call 'quality' places to eat, though if you look you will find them. Wine of any standard is hard to come by. The Butchers Shop in Fajara is excellent (food and the wine), it's close to the various embassies and the golf course, so gets demand from a wide variety of nationalities.
The markets at Serekunda and Banjul are worth visiting, though if I were you I would use one of the Green Taxi guys as a guide. There are lots and lots and lots of tourist spotters in the markets who will either harass you until a confrontation or single you out for a spot of theft. Locals telling them to f
k off has much more bearing and the places are so busy, you'll know what I mean when you're there.This pic is the street outside Serekunda market. Inside it's like that, but tiny walkways with everything you can imagine (and smell).
It's definitely a place of contrast....
This is the beach by our hotel:
And this is where fish are smoked as they come off the fishing boats in Banjul:
You WILL get MOBBED and it will be CONSTANT by guys on the street who want to sell you anything or take you to a restaurant. It is so bad, that you will more than likely find it hard to bite your tongue after more than a week of it. My OH and I are fair skinned and wear factor 9 million sun cream, which exaggerates the hassling, as the locals think you've just got off the plane and ripe for picking- which loses its gloss on day 12.
If you like the idea of rough and ready and viewing an entirely different and certainly not 1st World culture, go for it. I'm glad we went, and really enjoyed catching the locals buses and wandering around the place on foot, but the locals battling for your business on a second by second basis prevents you having much opportunity to truly relax. I would have loved to have headed up river for a few days, where tourism gives way to people earning a crust from the land and the true feel of the place can shine through.
We went about 12 years ago. Both my wife and I have travelled extensively through many lovely and not so lovely countries, so are pretty wise to places.
To be honest, The Gambia was truly fking horrible.
You WILL get continuously mobbed every second you spend outside your hotel complex to the point where you want to deck one of the vendors. You WILL tell them "no" and they won't listen again and again and again and they won't listen. The beaches have pretty dangerous rip currents and there is very little in the way of lifeguarding. The food is pretty shocking and there is a greater than average chance of picking up the sts. Banjul market had the most malevolent atmosphere I have ever experienced. Banjul is a st-hole of epic proportion.
The ONLY slightly redeaming feature is a ride up the river, as that is quite beautiful.
I am pleased we went, as I now know that, no matter where I go in the world, I have spent time in its ahole, so things can only be better.
All IMO, though. Please don't let me put you off
To be honest, The Gambia was truly f
king horrible.You WILL get continuously mobbed every second you spend outside your hotel complex to the point where you want to deck one of the vendors. You WILL tell them "no" and they won't listen again and again and again and they won't listen. The beaches have pretty dangerous rip currents and there is very little in the way of lifeguarding. The food is pretty shocking and there is a greater than average chance of picking up the s
ts. Banjul market had the most malevolent atmosphere I have ever experienced. Banjul is a st-hole of epic proportion.The ONLY slightly redeaming feature is a ride up the river, as that is quite beautiful.
I am pleased we went, as I now know that, no matter where I go in the world, I have spent time in its a
hole, so things can only be better.All IMO, though. Please don't let me put you off
schmalex said:
We went about 12 years ago. Both my wife and I have travelled extensively through many lovely and not so lovely countries, so are pretty wise to places.
To be honest, The Gambia was truly fking horrible.
You WILL get continuously mobbed every second you spend outside your hotel complex to the point where you want to deck one of the vendors. You WILL tell them "no" and they won't listen again and again and again and they won't listen. The beaches have pretty dangerous rip currents and there is very little in the way of lifeguarding. The food is pretty shocking and there is a greater than average chance of picking up the sts. Banjul market had the most malevolent atmosphere I have ever experienced. Banjul is a st-hole of epic proportion.
The ONLY slightly redeaming feature is a ride up the river, as that is quite beautiful.
I am pleased we went, as I now know that, no matter where I go in the world, I have spent time in its ahole, so things can only be better.
All IMO, though. Please don't let me put you off
Ah.To be honest, The Gambia was truly f
king horrible.You WILL get continuously mobbed every second you spend outside your hotel complex to the point where you want to deck one of the vendors. You WILL tell them "no" and they won't listen again and again and again and they won't listen. The beaches have pretty dangerous rip currents and there is very little in the way of lifeguarding. The food is pretty shocking and there is a greater than average chance of picking up the s
ts. Banjul market had the most malevolent atmosphere I have ever experienced. Banjul is a st-hole of epic proportion.The ONLY slightly redeaming feature is a ride up the river, as that is quite beautiful.
I am pleased we went, as I now know that, no matter where I go in the world, I have spent time in its a
hole, so things can only be better.All IMO, though. Please don't let me put you off
Well, that's that sorted then.
Now that's a PROPER review.
Many thanks.
How is the job at the Gambian Tourist Board going then?
I've been to "The G" a couple of times both times to visit a mate who lived there for five years working for the MRC. Now whilst I wasn't staying in a hotel and was with a local in the evenings during the dayt I largely had time to myself and certainly wasn't hassled to death by any means I got cabs and explored.....maybe the hotels told you to go to very touristy places ? I went to Serekunda market and pretty much was left alone and certainly not hassled every second. I ate some pretty decent food (though I was VERY careful about what I ate) at the local restaurants and really all round had a great time.
If you like golf you have to play at the Fajara Club which is the ex pats "country club" i.e. it has a couple of tennis courts a swimming pool and a golf course. The greens on the golf course are "browns" which are a mixture of oil and sand. Don't let that put you off though it's a great experience, it even has an island green on one hole. One of the caddies I had (50p a round) was genuinely one of the best caddies I've ever had....and I've played at most of the courses on the Open rosta with caddies.
Having said all that as my mate that lived there said "it's proper dirty smelly Africa"
If you like golf you have to play at the Fajara Club which is the ex pats "country club" i.e. it has a couple of tennis courts a swimming pool and a golf course. The greens on the golf course are "browns" which are a mixture of oil and sand. Don't let that put you off though it's a great experience, it even has an island green on one hole. One of the caddies I had (50p a round) was genuinely one of the best caddies I've ever had....and I've played at most of the courses on the Open rosta with caddies.
Having said all that as my mate that lived there said "it's proper dirty smelly Africa"
We stayed at the Kololi beach resort in Senegal & the apartments were very dirty & the locals all try & rip you off at any opportunity. I mean they will try & charge you for absolutely everything including wanting to carry your bag 100 yards & ask for £5 english money. They will also literally try & drag you into their restaurant as you walk past & 2 guys actually came to blows trying to get our business. The weather was good but that was all. We also had somebody walk beside us for miles along the beach begging for money. He eventually went as I threatend to call the police. (the police are very good & don't tollerate their begging etc) I fully appreciate that some of these people have very little, but it all became "to much" for us with the constant hastle & we couldn't wait to leave.
callyman said:
Ah, right ok thanks.
I believe my Sister made friends there the first time they stayed and now stays with them in a reasonable sized house etc (judging from her photos) so might be ok for us.
I also know somebody that has been several times. I think once you get used to the hastle, you could enjoy it there. It just wasn't for us.I believe my Sister made friends there the first time they stayed and now stays with them in a reasonable sized house etc (judging from her photos) so might be ok for us.
Gassing Station | Holidays & Travel | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff