MG Midget Running problems
Discussion
I have just brought an 1500 Mg Midget and tried starting it . this is my first classic car and i am a learner so bare with me. The car ran up a couple of times however cut out seconds after run up, so im getting a spark and fuel . but as i say then i have problems keeping it running even with throttle open . could this be the carbs. i just need some freindly advice
I wouldn't have thought getting diesel out of the fuel system and carburettors would be too easy. How did you do it? There is a possibility that the tank, lines and carb bowls need emptying, the carbs need a thorough clean and then starting again with fresh fuel. You could also be suffering with an air leak somewhere if you have strange inlet noises. Shame it's a Monday as it sounds like you might have a Sunday morn's work planned!
Is the fuel pump working? I doubt if the misfuelling will have done it any damage but AC fuel pumps have their own failure rate familiar to anyone who has owned a BMC sired car 
Usual test is to extinguish fag, disconnect rubber fuel line into the carb(s), place open end in old rag and get a helper to switch on the ignition for a few secs until fuel flows (or doesn't). If it does - fine. If not, sigh, and open Haynes manual at the page on replacing the electric fule (typo but I'll let it stand) pump.
It's a well worn path.
Usual test is to extinguish fag, disconnect rubber fuel line into the carb(s), place open end in old rag and get a helper to switch on the ignition for a few secs until fuel flows (or doesn't). If it does - fine. If not, sigh, and open Haynes manual at the page on replacing the electric fule (typo but I'll let it stand) pump.
It's a well worn path.
Dogwatch said:
Is the fuel pump working? I doubt if the misfuelling will have done it any damage but AC fuel pumps have their own failure rate familiar to anyone who has owned a BMC sired car
Usual test is to extinguish fag, disconnect rubber fuel line into the carb(s), place open end in old rag and get a helper to switch on the ignition for a few secs until fuel flows (or doesn't). If it does - fine. If not, sigh, and open Haynes manual at the page on replacing the electric fule (typo but I'll let it stand) pump.
It's a well worn path.
Thanks ill give this a try tomorrow Usual test is to extinguish fag, disconnect rubber fuel line into the carb(s), place open end in old rag and get a helper to switch on the ignition for a few secs until fuel flows (or doesn't). If it does - fine. If not, sigh, and open Haynes manual at the page on replacing the electric fule (typo but I'll let it stand) pump.
It's a well worn path.
op, providing tank, lines, carbs, filters, and cylinders are void of diesel and flushed clean your fuel supply should be good. check fuel pump working with ignition on only i.e. fuel being pumped to carb inlet. if this is clear and car was genuinely running beforehand the fuel supply should be good.
ref' ballast resistor, disconnect from common point at fuse box and buzz with meter for correct resitance. if no good temporarily fit new ballast resistor OR known working non-ballast coil. then the fault is electrical which will mean just fault finding in a logical way for any distributor based MG.
suggest you post on the following links with other MG Midget owners who'll be a big help and have experienced starting problems many times before; good luck.
http://www.mgcc.co.uk/mg-forum.html?func=showcat&a...
http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/list.php?3
ref' ballast resistor, disconnect from common point at fuse box and buzz with meter for correct resitance. if no good temporarily fit new ballast resistor OR known working non-ballast coil. then the fault is electrical which will mean just fault finding in a logical way for any distributor based MG.
suggest you post on the following links with other MG Midget owners who'll be a big help and have experienced starting problems many times before; good luck.
http://www.mgcc.co.uk/mg-forum.html?func=showcat&a...
http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/list.php?3
If you are getting a spark (one plug out, reconnect plug lead and crank the engine with the plug earthed on the engine) -then you can pour (Carefully!) a small (I use a capfull from 5 litre oil can) amount of fuel direct into the carbs (air filters off to do this) - try starting engine - to get the engine running for a couple of seconds - if it stops again then you know it is a fuelling problem.
whether you're new to classics or not I strongly recommend you invest around £8 in the Driver's Handbook, this is not a workshop manual it's a reprint of the book you would have got when the car was new it will tell you about the controls and how (and how much) servicing of the whole car - (Ref: 0058) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
for additional advice on getting your car going try the MG BBS - http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgb...
once you've got the car going I strongly suggest you run through a 36k mile service/check and drive the car regularly as this will help keep it in good condition and you learn to drive and exactly what it is capable of - it shouldn't be slow, poor handling or braking if it's in reasonable or good condition
although they are certainly needed the very popular to tinker with engine and carbs are not the most important elements of a car - the brakes, tyres, steering, suspension, lights and windows are much more important - a moments though will tell you this
tyres are often overlooked on classics, regardless of the amount of tread on them if they are more than 6 years old and/or very little use in that time get them checked and even if they are OK new tyres will probably improve your braking, steering, suspension, road holding, ride comfort and noise
that's my bit over
for additional advice on getting your car going try the MG BBS - http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgb...
once you've got the car going I strongly suggest you run through a 36k mile service/check and drive the car regularly as this will help keep it in good condition and you learn to drive and exactly what it is capable of - it shouldn't be slow, poor handling or braking if it's in reasonable or good condition
although they are certainly needed the very popular to tinker with engine and carbs are not the most important elements of a car - the brakes, tyres, steering, suspension, lights and windows are much more important - a moments though will tell you this
tyres are often overlooked on classics, regardless of the amount of tread on them if they are more than 6 years old and/or very little use in that time get them checked and even if they are OK new tyres will probably improve your braking, steering, suspension, road holding, ride comfort and noise
that's my bit over
auxilarygrub8 said:
Hi everyone thanks for your help the fuel Pp was blocked with sludge . Cleared and ran for a good 10 mins like a dream. Thanks for all your help
great. Now start enjoying it. The MG were always the best built of the whole Leyland range...And yes, they do leak. And your feet might get a little warm. I had a midget when I was 19. A lovely car
great, well done
I now strongly suggest you get a copy of the Driver’s Handbook - (Ref: 0058) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
run through a staged 36k mile service/check ASAP
and drive the car regularly
I doubt if this’ll be the only wrinkle you’ll get with the car especially if you don’t read that Driver’s Handbook
ETA: they don’t have to leak but they usually do but a lot of the time that is because of poor modern parts, previous and present owners or a combination of all three
good luck
I now strongly suggest you get a copy of the Driver’s Handbook - (Ref: 0058) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...
run through a staged 36k mile service/check ASAP
and drive the car regularly
I doubt if this’ll be the only wrinkle you’ll get with the car especially if you don’t read that Driver’s Handbook
ETA: they don’t have to leak but they usually do but a lot of the time that is because of poor modern parts, previous and present owners or a combination of all three
good luck
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