Advice and insight please...
Discussion
My first time in that quiet place know as the Classics forum so please be patient with me. 
I'm currently considering buying a second "Fun" car and have recently been to look at a 1977 3000M (pictures below).
Now I'm not new to TVR, so there's no need to spare my blushes. In the past I've owned a 280i FHC (7 years) and a 400SE (about 18 months) and used them for my daily driver. In the last year I gave into practicality and bought a Jag (well practicality is a relative term
)Pics of the cars in my profile.
Now whilst the Jag is fairly bonkers, it's not TVR bonkers which bings me to my main question.
Would running a 3000M be a fairly straightforward proposition? Are there any particular things I should look out for? Other than the usual bits and the Chassis.
What are the Chassis like for rot on these models? My 280i was totally sound but later models tend to be more prone.
And am I nieave(sp?) in thinking that such a mechanically simple car will have less things to go wrong with it? My 280i's main bugbears were leccy windows, pop-up lights and other electrical stuff which a 300M doesn't have.
And fianlly - will I give me the real driving experience I'm looking for? I know you guys can't really answer that one, however I'd like to hear what you get out of it.
Also do you think the car I'm looking at seems okay for the money.
Cheers!.
I'm currently considering buying a second "Fun" car and have recently been to look at a 1977 3000M (pictures below).
Now I'm not new to TVR, so there's no need to spare my blushes. In the past I've owned a 280i FHC (7 years) and a 400SE (about 18 months) and used them for my daily driver. In the last year I gave into practicality and bought a Jag (well practicality is a relative term
)Pics of the cars in my profile. Now whilst the Jag is fairly bonkers, it's not TVR bonkers which bings me to my main question.
Would running a 3000M be a fairly straightforward proposition? Are there any particular things I should look out for? Other than the usual bits and the Chassis.
What are the Chassis like for rot on these models? My 280i was totally sound but later models tend to be more prone.
And am I nieave(sp?) in thinking that such a mechanically simple car will have less things to go wrong with it? My 280i's main bugbears were leccy windows, pop-up lights and other electrical stuff which a 300M doesn't have.
And fianlly - will I give me the real driving experience I'm looking for? I know you guys can't really answer that one, however I'd like to hear what you get out of it.
Also do you think the car I'm looking at seems okay for the money.
Cheers!.
Here's some shots of the car in question.
It generally looks pretty good. I'm particually fond of the natty 70's style paint job.
It's had a new stainless exhaust and new bumper rubbers (which have been poorly fitted)
Interior is fairly good. The seats are perhaps a little baggy. It's a bit mouldy at the moment and smells stale.
there's a crack on the bonnet. I guess from being slammed when mis-aligned
And the passenger side door is quite messy at the top and around the door handle (it's been painted over without tyding up)
Other details...
It's a 1977 model with just over 100K on the clock. I'ts had eight owners and has only done 500 miles in the last three years. The asking price is £3200.
I'd say it's just a bit tatty rather than in bad condition and would look ten times better with a bit of TLC.
My main bugbears are that the wipers are very slow and the heater seems to hardly blow at all. Is this common to all models and how easy is it to sort out heater problems?
I await your wisdom
Bob.
>> Edited by bobfrance on Tuesday 3rd August 19:01
It generally looks pretty good. I'm particually fond of the natty 70's style paint job.
It's had a new stainless exhaust and new bumper rubbers (which have been poorly fitted)
Interior is fairly good. The seats are perhaps a little baggy. It's a bit mouldy at the moment and smells stale.
there's a crack on the bonnet. I guess from being slammed when mis-aligned
And the passenger side door is quite messy at the top and around the door handle (it's been painted over without tyding up)
Other details...
It's a 1977 model with just over 100K on the clock. I'ts had eight owners and has only done 500 miles in the last three years. The asking price is £3200.
I'd say it's just a bit tatty rather than in bad condition and would look ten times better with a bit of TLC.
My main bugbears are that the wipers are very slow and the heater seems to hardly blow at all. Is this common to all models and how easy is it to sort out heater problems?
I await your wisdom
Bob.
>> Edited by bobfrance on Tuesday 3rd August 19:01
Hi Bob
Have owned mine for about nine months now and every time I drive it I still have fun.
I have owned a few fast cars including jags, but have got to say it is possibly one of the most fun cars I have owned so far.
They do have problems re: the chassis as do other models check underneath and outriggers.
On the score of being basic, yes they are which makes keeping them running all the easier (No sensors all over the engine to go wrong).
The fan is not the best but other than trying to clear the windscreen you won't want the heater on (it's a TVR so who needs heaters as it get's plenty hot in the car).
With the electric's it's a Tiv and I think that says it all, just make certain that if you buy it that you clean all possible earthing points.
If you get it you will find it very basic and a total different way of driving, but it will give you a real driving experience (not in the same way as a chim or griff, but I think its more fun on A and B roads) this is the fun of having one.
Cheers Drifting
Have owned mine for about nine months now and every time I drive it I still have fun.
I have owned a few fast cars including jags, but have got to say it is possibly one of the most fun cars I have owned so far.
They do have problems re: the chassis as do other models check underneath and outriggers.
On the score of being basic, yes they are which makes keeping them running all the easier (No sensors all over the engine to go wrong).
The fan is not the best but other than trying to clear the windscreen you won't want the heater on (it's a TVR so who needs heaters as it get's plenty hot in the car).
With the electric's it's a Tiv and I think that says it all, just make certain that if you buy it that you clean all possible earthing points.
If you get it you will find it very basic and a total different way of driving, but it will give you a real driving experience (not in the same way as a chim or griff, but I think its more fun on A and B roads) this is the fun of having one.
Cheers Drifting
Bob, Drifting has summed it up quiet nicely.. it's a good basic car, designed before the days of fuel-injection, lambda sensors and suchlike. Best thing is, spares are plentiful, especially on eBay with all those Capris and Granadas being broken up
Main thing to watch out for is the square bits on the chassis, but these can be repaired if required - there is no need to replace any M-series chassis unless the car has been pranged in an accident. (Ok, I did see one that was more suitable for straining vegetables, but that was an exception).
For £3000 you can't go too far wrong, and you would'nt lose anything if you decided afterwards that it didn't suit you.
Main thing to watch out for is the square bits on the chassis, but these can be repaired if required - there is no need to replace any M-series chassis unless the car has been pranged in an accident. (Ok, I did see one that was more suitable for straining vegetables, but that was an exception).
For £3000 you can't go too far wrong, and you would'nt lose anything if you decided afterwards that it didn't suit you.
Thanks for all the info guys!
Good point about the bonnet Paul, I thought the vents seemed unusual, they were on the 2500's weren't they?
And the bonnet was a bugger to shut but I assumed they all did that.
Good insight from Drifting and Terminator thanks for that.
Although I got an email on the subject from someone (I won't name names in case he had a reason for not posting on the forum) which was very detailed and helpful but perhaps a bit more downbeat. The jist of which was "If it's not had a new chassis it will need one" and "buy the best or expect the worst"
A stern warning indeed.
I was suprised to read such an unequivocal (sp?) comment from The Gamekeeper considering it's not even him selling it. But I guess you must just have a soft spot for the older models Steve.
Well I'm still sat here pondering what to do at the moment and to make matters worse this one has just popped up...
www.pistonheads.com/sales/detail.asp?i=27000&s=5
...in the PH classifieds and by all accounts it's a cracker for similar money, and the words "buy the best or expect the worst" keep going round my head.
Good point about the bonnet Paul, I thought the vents seemed unusual, they were on the 2500's weren't they?
And the bonnet was a bugger to shut but I assumed they all did that.
Good insight from Drifting and Terminator thanks for that.
Although I got an email on the subject from someone (I won't name names in case he had a reason for not posting on the forum) which was very detailed and helpful but perhaps a bit more downbeat. The jist of which was "If it's not had a new chassis it will need one" and "buy the best or expect the worst"
A stern warning indeed.
I was suprised to read such an unequivocal (sp?) comment from The Gamekeeper considering it's not even him selling it.
But I guess you must just have a soft spot for the older models Steve. Well I'm still sat here pondering what to do at the moment and to make matters worse this one has just popped up...
www.pistonheads.com/sales/detail.asp?i=27000&s=5
...in the PH classifieds and by all accounts it's a cracker for similar money, and the words "buy the best or expect the worst" keep going round my head.
bobfrance said: said:
"If it's not had a new chassis it will need one"
Thats bollox. I have two 1978 chassis sitting in my warehouse and each has 80% of the original paint covering bare metal on the centre rails. Sure, a few of the outriggers need a good shot-blast and may require replacing but that's all. If whoever stated the above saw these chassis, they'd soon change their minds.
My own 3000S sits on a 1975 M chassis, that was simply cleaned and painted back in 1987.
Oh, that link sends us to an advert for a Tasmin. Now those are trouble...
Got to agree about the add it looks nice, but if you buy it you are going back to sensors etc and all their associated problems.
With the 3000M it is a lot more simple to work on, just make sure you check the frame and you should be alright.
One other thing to remember is that every time you stop anywhere you will have people coming up to look at the car because of the classic shape.
It pi$$es off my bro in law if both are cars are together as everyone is looking at the Taimar and not his Chim.
Cheers drifting
With the 3000M it is a lot more simple to work on, just make sure you check the frame and you should be alright.
One other thing to remember is that every time you stop anywhere you will have people coming up to look at the car because of the classic shape.
It pi$$es off my bro in law if both are cars are together as everyone is looking at the Taimar and not his Chim.
Cheers drifting
I think it has to be said that the chassis' do rust around the front outriggers, and the front uppermost transverse rail just behind the seats is also vulnerable. The car would have to have had a very hard life to need a complete new chassis. You can easily check by crawling around underneath wielding a hammer and a big screwdriver. Also have a good look at the bonnet subframe. These can rust quite badly.
Paul.
Paul.
I brought a 1977 Taimar which had been just sitting around for the last six years about three months ago. I'm not mechanically minded, and this is my first TVR. Apart from a couple of things it's been great fun to own and drive - must admit I do get frustrated with the 30mph crew around the country lanes! Buy it.
I have a Wedge and a Taimar. they are both fun in their own way, but completely differnt cars to drive. The wedge is much heavier. The Taimar is lighter and more chuckable, and is great on windy 'a' seies roads.
My wipers are fairly slow, I think it is the gearing. The heater clears the screen, but does little else.
My Taimar has done over 100K, and the chassis is fine, and never repaired. The engine is good and original ( although I did do a top end overhaul as the valve guide seals had gone hard)
I have had to rebuild the suspension, fitted stainless manifolds and exhaust,new sunroof, and am presently fitting new carpets.
For £3k you will not regret buying an m series. It is more fun per pound than just about anything else you can buy.
My wipers are fairly slow, I think it is the gearing. The heater clears the screen, but does little else.
My Taimar has done over 100K, and the chassis is fine, and never repaired. The engine is good and original ( although I did do a top end overhaul as the valve guide seals had gone hard)
I have had to rebuild the suspension, fitted stainless manifolds and exhaust,new sunroof, and am presently fitting new carpets.
For £3k you will not regret buying an m series. It is more fun per pound than just about anything else you can buy.
njhucker said:
For £3k you will not regret buying an m series. It is more fun per pound than just about anything else you can buy.
Absolutely, I'm on my second M!
They are simple to maintain even for the novis mechanic, parts are cheapish and still widely available. Good set of lads on the forums to help with any probs, Can't go wrong with an M!
>> Edited by supaspark on Saturday 7th August 00:33
Well sorry guys but I went to look at that wedge I mentioned over the weekend and it looked to be a very good one, so I bought it.
I would've perhaps liked something different, having owned two already. However I know these cars very well and I have been hankering after a convertible (just love the feel of the rain in my hair!).
I'd like to thank you again for all the time you spent advising me and I will certainly be looking in on the classics forun in the futre.
I mean a wedge is old enough to be a classic by now surely.
I would've perhaps liked something different, having owned two already. However I know these cars very well and I have been hankering after a convertible (just love the feel of the rain in my hair!).
I'd like to thank you again for all the time you spent advising me and I will certainly be looking in on the classics forun in the futre.
I mean a wedge is old enough to be a classic by now surely.
bobfrance said:Classic?? A Wedge?? Noooooooo. It's not it's age, it's the style. I've had 3 wedgies and got fed up with the kids shouting 'look Dad, a TR7'. At least the 3000S gets mistaken for a Spitfire until they see the number plate
I mean a wedge is old enough to be a classic by now surely.
I've just bought 1976 TVR 3000M , not as good condition as yours, I've stripped mine right back, check oil feed ,temp and pressure, check compression Its just cost me £1000 to get mine something like right.Take a good look at chassis,hangers just behind front wheel , mine worn a bit thin may need replacing have a good look at yours .
Hope you have fun with the car PATMAN.
Hope you have fun with the car PATMAN.
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