2002 Boxster as an everyday car?

[anonymous-user]

Thinking about getting rid of my 05 plate Jag xtype diesel for a 2002/2003 Boxster. How reliable are these cars and what's the upkeep like? Can they be serviced cheaply? Any advise appreciated. I only do around 6000 miles a year so MPG isnt that important.

[shoestring7]

For those of us who used to use things like 20 year old MGBs of Caterhams for 12,000 miles p.a., this sort of post is perplexing to say the least.

SS7

[matfinch]

dba3087108 said:

Thinking about getting rid of my 05 plate Jag xtype diesel for a 2002/2003 Boxster. How reliable are these cars and what's the upkeep like? Can they be serviced cheaply? Any advise appreciated. I only do around 6000 miles a year so MPG isnt that important.

Dave - As I have replied on previous boxster posts, if you are a look for a fun, affordable, reliable sports car, then I would strongly recommend a Boxster

I've currently got a 3.2 S and my misses a standard 2.7.

Prices are excellent right now (see pistonheads homepage) and spending something around £7 to £8k should get you something decent. There is plenty of choice. I'd insist on a full service history with either main dealer or porsche specialists. A a file full of invoices is always a bonus to see where money has been spent. If it hasn't been a well loved car, walk away!

Running costs wise, I'd suggest you only get it serviced from a specialist who knows what they are doing. Basic service around £250 and major around £500. Set of pads and discs all round will cost £800. I've owned Boxsters for 5 years now and found them to be reliable, as long as you keep on top of the maintenance.

[lgw]

I use my Boxster as a daily drive commuting as well so far its very reliable, I still use OPC to service it as its been done by them since new so see it as a good selling point, other maintenance like brakes, disc's even suspension is quite easy for a reasonably competent DIYer.

I average between 24 and 26 mpg if I don't chuck it around too much, as stated above they really are a great fun car

[FlybyWyre]

I have to use an X type pool car. No option, get a Boxster!
No Ford diesel rattle, just a wonderful flat 6 sound.

The word flat for the sound does not apply, just a ploy to confuse people. Great cars. Don't worry about running costs. It's worth it!

Servicing and stuff is not difficult, it's just a car with standard engineering that drives really well.

[BertBert]

I'm looking at similar Boxster S's for everyday use (having done it in a Caterham), I think I'm ok on the question of whether it'll do it!

There seems to be quite a choice for up to 8k. Are there specific options that people think are must-haves? Does lower mileage count for a lot?

Cheers
Bert

[BertBert]

Cheers. In mileage terms I was thinking 60k miles versus 90k miles. Is there something aboutbiger wheels making the ride harsher and needing PASM or is that related elsewhere in the porsche world? I'm not really up on the modern stuff!!
Bert

[61GT]

shoestring7 said:

For those of us who used to use things like 20 year old MGBs of Caterhams for 12,000 miles p.a., this sort of post is perplexing to say the least.

SS7

+ 1

[noumenon]

I had one (2002 986 S) and loved every minute. Not really a city car with the heavy clutch, but in the burbs it'd be magic.

Details here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/members/showcar.asp?car...

I bought at the wrong time from a depreciation standpoint, but other than that, it was a joy.

[BertBert]

Had a test drive in a higher mileage (86k) 2001 boxster yesterday. Loved it. What's the safe buying method for such a car to avoid expensive bits breaking? Get it inspected? Any recommendations for that in Surrey?

What are the big things to check? Is there a buying guide somewhere?

Bert

[lgw]

Check for oil leaks, my boxster was dumping some serious oil around the 50k mark so new Rear Main Oil Seal was fitted, it is a common fault on these engines not a bad job if you want to do it yourself if not I would imagine it'll cost around £1000, might be a good idea to remove the front bumper to remove all the rubbish and leaves that tends to accumulate between the condenser and rads otherwise they will rot, you will be surprised how much junks gets trapped in there, I remove mine twice a year, it is an easy job, Check the tyres for irregular wear.

[Rockster]

dba3087108 said:

Thinking about getting rid of my 05 plate Jag xtype diesel for a 2002/2003 Boxster. How reliable are these cars and what's the upkeep like? Can they be serviced cheaply? Any advise appreciated. I only do around 6000 miles a year so MPG isnt that important.

How's the saying go? The cheapest servicing is not necessarily the least expensive servicing.

You want to place that knows these cars and based on its pep, not the pretty lettering on its parts truck.

My 02 Boxster has been darn reliable and I would recommend one in a second as a daily driver. Easy to steer, drive around, the 5-speed shifts quick and easy and the clutch is the best. Small enough so parking's not a real chore.

Running costs are reasonable: Mpg in the 20's around town, high 20's on the highway, oil/filter services every 5K miles (approved oil proper viscosity), brake fluid flushes/bleeds every 2 years, coolant drain/refill every 4 or so years, tranny/diff fluid drain/refill every 45K or 60K miles (IIRC manual calls for 90K miles), rear tires last me 20K miles (easy) and fronts double that. I keep the car aligned though, roughly having it aligned every time I replace all 4 tires, though this last time the tech said the tire wear gave no indication the alignment was out so he advised against me having him do it.

Then have problems taken care of when (if) they happen.

Oh, I've put over 256K miles on my 02 Boxster.

Sincerely,

Rockster.

[Rockster]

BertBert said:

Had a test drive in a higher mileage (86k) 2001 boxster yesterday. Loved it. What's the safe buying method for such a car to avoid expensive bits breaking? Get it inspected? Any recommendations for that in Surrey?

What are the big things to check? Is there a buying guide somewhere?

Bert

Briefly, visit the car with the car/engine cold. Turn off A/C. Turn on key and make sure CEL and other warning lights come on then go off when you start the engine. Let engine idle while you walk around the car. Listen to the engine carefully. The idle should be a bit fast, but reasonably smooth and the engine free of any ticking, knocking noises. The engine won't be quiet as it is a reciprocating IC engine and these things make noise.

Once engine is nearly up to temp have seller take you on a test ride. Cover 15 miles. The route should give the driver a chance to demo the car in a variety of scenarios. The engine wants to pull smoothly from idle to redline. But of course pay attention to everything, not just the engine.

Back at the starting point, you take the car out as a test driver. Follow the same route. Drive the car the same way.

Confirm all feels ok that everything is ok.

Afterwards then subject the car to a thorough used car checkout. Be sure everything works.

Then if you still like the car and believe you can make a deal, have it PPI'd. Among other things the oil filter housing oil should be checked for scary bits and the engine/drivetrain/everywhere there is fluid, all should be checked for leaks. CV boots for tears. Read the overrev counters and post here for comments. Along with these counters get the engine runtime and use the odometer to determine the car's average speed.

Sincerely,

Rockster.

[BertBert]

Thanks Rockster. Didn't do the warning light check, but walked round it as it warmed and it sounded good. Did a test drive and it all worked extremely nicely. If I decide to go for it and can agree a price, I'll get a PPI done.
Bert