Discussion
UV knows a bit about them.
The 3.3s are meant to be strong as an ox, although obviously look out for accident damage and worn turbos at 75k+.
The 3.6s suffer from front suspension wishbone wear (maybe 3.3s as well?) and check the clutch carefully. Shouldn't graunch anywhere on its travel, or be overly heavy.
Quite a quick car. They are pretty handy in third gear! I was pretty tempted by a 3.6, but don't pay over the odds as resale isn't predicted to remain as high as for some models.
The 3.3s are meant to be strong as an ox, although obviously look out for accident damage and worn turbos at 75k+.
The 3.6s suffer from front suspension wishbone wear (maybe 3.3s as well?) and check the clutch carefully. Shouldn't graunch anywhere on its travel, or be overly heavy.
Quite a quick car. They are pretty handy in third gear! I was pretty tempted by a 3.6, but don't pay over the odds as resale isn't predicted to remain as high as for some models.
I forgot to mention about oil leaks. Check the barrels for leaks - there is no undertray so just peer underneath the back of the car. They can also leak from the crankcase seal or something as well.
A little bit of oil may be nothing to worry about - most 965s are slightly 'wet', but it is a good bargaining point at the very least (and a top end engine rebuild at the very most!).
A little bit of oil may be nothing to worry about - most 965s are slightly 'wet', but it is a good bargaining point at the very least (and a top end engine rebuild at the very most!).
I suppose it depends on the dealer. I think Charles Ivey has an OK reputation, but I haven't much experience of them so can't really comment. I'm not sure they could complain about a third party inspection if you were serious about the purchase. It's up to you, but if you did, I'd probably use Autofarm.
Autofarm have a good reputation, and do an inspection for 150 quid if you can get your car to them. They warned me of some of the more unscrupulous 'specialists', and I don't think it was simply a case of slagging off the opposition. I know, for example, that a T23.6 owner I know had a dispute with Camtune about the used car he purchased, but that is a strictly offlist story (dcolbeck@draftuk.com). And there was me thinking of Camtune's lovely website and good reputation... Just goes to show.
>> Edited by domster on Thursday 6th June 11:10
Autofarm have a good reputation, and do an inspection for 150 quid if you can get your car to them. They warned me of some of the more unscrupulous 'specialists', and I don't think it was simply a case of slagging off the opposition. I know, for example, that a T23.6 owner I know had a dispute with Camtune about the used car he purchased, but that is a strictly offlist story (dcolbeck@draftuk.com). And there was me thinking of Camtune's lovely website and good reputation... Just goes to show.
>> Edited by domster on Thursday 6th June 11:10
My advice would be to take the car for a spin (let me know if you would like to me to come, I could take you out in mine first so you had something to compare too). Get them to put it on a ramp and take a look under the car. There are lots of reasons for oil to be present under the car some serious some not. When I inspected mine it was leaking from both the oil return tubes and the turbo sump. Nether serious and cost nothing to fix. New tubes (these are ware items) and a new washer for the sump.
If you are generally happy with the condition of the car (i.e. prepared to spend £300 on an inspection) get it done. They will always point out work greater than the cost of the inspection. I would then get a quote from another respected dealer and get them to do the work, having negotiated a fair price with current dealer. This way you know the work will be done properly and not just to get the car sold. Most warrantees are worthless and don't last long enough to be meaningful.
As a point of reference my car sits in a garage all week and has yet to leak a drop of oil. On your test drive you can learn a lot from watching the various oil gages.
Check clutch and flywheel behaviour, all panel gaps, wheel arch lips for hints of respray, remove carpet in front to check for accident damage, log book for regular servicing, disc ware (they are expensive to replace), boost behaviour (make sure you wastegate is functioning properly) and air con (will probably need regasing). Just stuff off the top of my head…..
If you are generally happy with the condition of the car (i.e. prepared to spend £300 on an inspection) get it done. They will always point out work greater than the cost of the inspection. I would then get a quote from another respected dealer and get them to do the work, having negotiated a fair price with current dealer. This way you know the work will be done properly and not just to get the car sold. Most warrantees are worthless and don't last long enough to be meaningful.
As a point of reference my car sits in a garage all week and has yet to leak a drop of oil. On your test drive you can learn a lot from watching the various oil gages.
Check clutch and flywheel behaviour, all panel gaps, wheel arch lips for hints of respray, remove carpet in front to check for accident damage, log book for regular servicing, disc ware (they are expensive to replace), boost behaviour (make sure you wastegate is functioning properly) and air con (will probably need regasing). Just stuff off the top of my head…..
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