Shooting landscape panoramas

[torres del paine]

I thought I'd put this to the PH experts.

I understand the principles of shooting panoramas:

Use panoramic head for accurate nodal point when there are objects close and far away (not so essential for distant landscapes - pant and tilt head okay).
Tilt camera to portrait.
Ensure that the camera is level for entire panorama using bubble level.
Manually set exposure by scanning the entire scene and then setting f stop and shutter speed to the sweet spot.
Overlap images by about 30%.

However, when it comes to focusing (with all the above checked), do I gain focus in AV for the first shot and then lock it manually and leave it, or do I manually focus for each shot using the focusing ring?

Apologies, if this is elementary, but new to all of this and not sure how you maintain focus throughout for a series of photos.

Any guidance appreciated.

[Simpo Two]

Best answer IMHO would be to use an aperture that gave you sufficient DOF to cover all parts of the scene.

If that's not possible (eg nearest point 2' away, farthest point 20' away) then perhaps focus stacking? - ie take two or more photos at different focus settings and blend together later.

[K12beano]

torres del paine said:

.... or do I manually focus for each shot using the focusing ring?

If it's possible focus manually once and then leave it alone, like all the other settings. Although in plenty of circumstances you won't notice a shift in focus I think the best option would be hyper focal distance across the series.


Though this assumes you aren't looking to selectively focus some feature in the scene.

Personally, i am a bit slapdash over panos (except for consistent exposure and no polarbear filtering) - they all seem to do OK in the PS autostitching, until you include some close up architecture or the like!

[RobDickinson]

For me focus isnt on the shutter button, I use back button focus.

But for panoramics I will use live view 10* zoomed in (and dof rpeview) and adjust focus manually until everything I want is in focus.

[Simpo Two]

K12beano said:

(except for consistent exposure and no polarbear filtering)

Good point; I hate it when polar bears get into my shots. Many a shot I've had ruined by polar bears popping in at just the wrong time. Bloody things, they just hog the limelight.

[RobDickinson]

Simpo Two said:

K12beano said:

(except for consistent exposure and no polarbear filtering)

Good point; I hate it when polar bears get into my shots. Many a shot I've had ruined by polar bears popping in at just the wrong time. Bloody things, they just hog the limelight.

See , southern hemisphere shooting is not spoiled by polar bears.

Penguins are much trickier to avoid though.

[K12beano]

RobDickinson said:

Simpo Two said:

K12beano said:

(except for consistent exposure and no polarbear filtering)

Good point; I hate it when polar bears get into my shots. Many a shot I've had ruined by polar bears popping in at just the wrong time. Bloody things, they just hog the limelight.

See , southern hemisphere shooting is not spoiled by polar bears.

Penguins are much trickier to avoid though.

What - hasn't someone developed a penguinising filter yet?

[torres del paine]

K12beano said:

f it's possible focus manually once and then leave it alone, like all the other settings. Although in plenty of circumstances you won't notice a shift in focus I think the best option would be hyper focal distance across the series.


Though this assumes you aren't looking to selectively focus some feature in the scene.

Personally, i am a bit slapdash over panos (except for consistent exposure and no polarbear filtering) - they all seem to do OK in the PS autostitching, until you include some close up architecture or the like!

Thanks, that's what I thought (along with consistent exposure), just wasn't sure. I want to shoot some big hi-res Alpine panoramas, so I'm aiming for a sharp image, foreground to background across the scene. I plan on using a 50mm prime on a pan and tilt head to achieve this.

[Simpo Two]

torres del paine said:

Thanks, that's what I thought (along with consistent exposure), just wasn't sure. I want to shoot some big hi-res Alpine panoramas, so I'm aiming for a sharp image, foreground to background across the scene. I plan on using a 50mm prime on a pan and tilt head to achieve this.

If you know the distance from the camera to the nearest and furthest points then you can calculate the hyperfocal distance and then the aperture required to get both points acceptably sharp.


Of course in these digital days you can also take the emprirical approach and find out what works on the spot.

[LongQ]

Simpo Two said:

torres del paine said:

Thanks, that's what I thought (along with consistent exposure), just wasn't sure. I want to shoot some big hi-res Alpine panoramas, so I'm aiming for a sharp image, foreground to background across the scene. I plan on using a 50mm prime on a pan and tilt head to achieve this.

If you know the distance from the camera to the nearest and furthest points then you can calculate the hyperfocal distance and then the aperture required to get both points acceptably sharp.


Of course in these digital days you can also take the emprirical approach and find out what works on the spot.

And then there's Focus Stacking to consider. Easier if the camera support it of course.

It's tempting to suggest investment in a Gigapan unit but I don't have one so can't speak from personal experience.

[RobDickinson]

Hyperfocal, especially with longer lenses is tricky.

Just because its in the plane of focus does not mean it will be acceptably sharp..

[Lost_BMW]

How about one of these?


http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/seitz-d3...


When my Lottery ticket comes in...

[Lost_BMW]

Just remembered to post this for anyone who hasn't seen it - stunning!


http://www.willpearson.co.uk/virtual-tour/shard-36...