Discussion
TurboTony said:
I am in two minds about waxoyl - I have removed a fair amount from my chassis and it looks nicer. The waxoyl was hiding areas of superficial corrosion where the factory finish was lifting. By removing it I could treat the affected areas.
Bet this starts a debate!!!!!
No TVR left the factory with the chassis covered in waxoylBet this starts a debate!!!!!
..............A few years later .......................................
"yes sir we have completed the service but we noticed some of the powdercoat is starting to peel off. May we suggest spraying the underside of the car with waxoyl to protect it".......BULL
IT. Waxoyl sprayed over what is already starting to rust just hides the problem. I have done a partial bodylift on my old S3 and a full bodylift and outrigger replace on my chim. The S had no waxoyl on it just plenty of oil from leaks on the engine and the usual spray from the diff and the chassis wasnt too bad. The chim was covered in waxoyl and needed new outriggers, new lower front wishbones and the rest of the chassis shot blasted back to bare metal!
My chim chassis was painted with 2 pack epoxy, approx 6 coats in all and that was 3 years ago. I use the car for all but winter time and in all weathers. I every winter get under the car and touch up any stone chips or paint damage and clean it all. It still looks like new, and this way, with no waxoyl, you can see any chips or damage.
"What was the best way getting it off, i tried to get some off mine
not a easy job"
Barry
I used white spirit. came off easier than expected, doesnt take the paint off then just wiped it all down again with damp rag.messy job though and got through loads of old wrags! Still undecided as to waxoil again depends on weather I can resist taking it out in anything but perfectly dry weather.Me thinks not!
Mike "phillpot" are you about anytime? wouldnt mind picking your brain on couple of things
not a easy job"
Barry
I used white spirit. came off easier than expected, doesnt take the paint off then just wiped it all down again with damp rag.messy job though and got through loads of old wrags! Still undecided as to waxoil again depends on weather I can resist taking it out in anything but perfectly dry weather.Me thinks not!
Mike "phillpot" are you about anytime? wouldnt mind picking your brain on couple of things
I think I'm on my own here but I like waxoil IF you remember it will not cure a rusty chassis it will however protect against corrosion and slow down minor surface rust , at the end of the day your chassis is going to rust no matter what you do and an annual waxoil on a solid chassis might buy you an extra year or two befour the inevitable body lift, out of interest how long is powder coating garenteed for ? Even if tvr had galvanised the chassis ( the process probably would have twisted them? ) they would probably be had it by now anyway. Oh if only they had used stainless ?
I have used Waxoil for years and it definitely slows down deterioration but it doesn't help much on top of flaky paint so I periodically scrape the loose off and spray with Waxoil. When all the paint is gone just give it an annual spray or clean it all off and re-paint. Did a partial lift on the S just over a year ago to scrape and re-paint and only had to replace a short length of outrigger.
Waxoil does attract the dirt though and looks a bit messy, but my car is very much a “go” car and not a “show” car and the aim is to keep it in a good serviceable condition with steady improvement. Regular use does seem to have the advantage of keeping it free from many of the niggling ailments featured in this forum.
Rob.
Waxoil does attract the dirt though and looks a bit messy, but my car is very much a “go” car and not a “show” car and the aim is to keep it in a good serviceable condition with steady improvement. Regular use does seem to have the advantage of keeping it free from many of the niggling ailments featured in this forum.
Rob.
Just looking at some old reciepts and apparently my chassis was sent off to a specialist for sandblasting, welding and GALVANISING by the garage who did the rest of the work.The bill for the specialist bit was £1,700 ten years ago. Have heard that galvanising can twist the chassis too! Hope not 
How can you tell if something is galvanised? Found a couple of spots where paint is chipped off and no signs of rust....galvanising working or just new chips?
How can you tell if something is galvanised? Found a couple of spots where paint is chipped off and no signs of rust....galvanising working or just new chips? Edited by themee on Wednesday 28th March 16:00
themee said:
How can you tell if something is galvanised?
I may be wrong but I believe a hole has to be drilled in every tube to prevent pressure build up with the heating required for galvanising. So unless well sealed afterwards this defeats the benefits because water gets inside to cause corrosion from the inside out !Galvanise is also a pain to get paint to adhere to.
Out Sunday but around most of Saturday Chris, have you got my number or pop round on the off chance.
That explains the plastic/rubber bungs plugged in the corners or do they all have this? never noticed them on any other pics.Worried now about water getting in though.Looking good on the outside could be rotten as a pair inside! 
Says marine paint was used on reciepts. Will pop round sat on the off chance Cheers!
Says marine paint was used on reciepts. Will pop round sat on the off chance Cheers!Edited by themee on Wednesday 28th March 18:35
..i can smile nowOnly noticed 2 caps/bungs one on the front of each outrigger.Is it possible just these pieces were done when repaired?is that possible?Seemed totally sealed as first i tried to pick it off thinking it was a bit of crud.The cap fits round the curvature of the chassis and imagine theres a bung underneath is only about 2cm long.To pull one out and have a look or not to touch it? might put some silicone or something over it at very least.
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