Suspension advice
Discussion
I've currently got my rear suspension in bits so I can clean up and protect the trailing arms as well as checking on the state of the shocks and bushes. After my handling issues in Italy I wanted to make sure the back end behaved itself at Spa!
I have 2 questions I wouldn't mind some advice on.
1. Trailing Arms
the trailing arms are solid but manky. I was intending on degreasing, wire brushing and painting them with epoxy mastic 121 but I'm now wondering if I should just get them shot blasted then paint them myself or even get them powder coated.
If I get them blasted do I have to degrease them first or is that part of the process.
I'm also wondering whether or not to put new bushes in as the current ones look fine but may be original and knackered. Obviously new bushes would be required if it was going for powder coating.
2. Shocks
My shocks are in a shocking state (
). They seem to work fine but the adjuster is so rusted it's seized and the rest of the shock body and the spring is pretty corroded. Also one of them squeaks but I've never figured out which one.
Can I get them reconditioned, or are they fine and it's just cosmetic? Please don't mention new shocks though, money is a little tight at the moment!
I'll post some pictures up when I get home tonight, no idea how to do it from my phone!
Thanks in advance,
Tom
I have 2 questions I wouldn't mind some advice on.
1. Trailing Arms
the trailing arms are solid but manky. I was intending on degreasing, wire brushing and painting them with epoxy mastic 121 but I'm now wondering if I should just get them shot blasted then paint them myself or even get them powder coated.
If I get them blasted do I have to degrease them first or is that part of the process.
I'm also wondering whether or not to put new bushes in as the current ones look fine but may be original and knackered. Obviously new bushes would be required if it was going for powder coating.
2. Shocks
My shocks are in a shocking state (
). They seem to work fine but the adjuster is so rusted it's seized and the rest of the shock body and the spring is pretty corroded. Also one of them squeaks but I've never figured out which one. Can I get them reconditioned, or are they fine and it's just cosmetic? Please don't mention new shocks though, money is a little tight at the moment!
I'll post some pictures up when I get home tonight, no idea how to do it from my phone!
Thanks in advance,
Tom
Given the fact that you have it all stipped down i would remove the old bushes then have the arms sand blasted,The round tube part of the arm can collect mud and start rusting from the inside weld a small disc to blank this off, powder coat and fit new bushes for piece of mind ,you will need a press to press in the new bushes.
Right well here are some pictures.
My trailing arm
The bushes don't look bad at all but I think Kevin is right, There is no point taking the whole thing apart then doing half a job. Currently waiting on a quote to get the arms blasted and powder coated then I'll get some power flex bushes and put them in. Hopefully a vice will do for putting them in otherwise a trip to my local friendly garage may be in order.
As for my shocks, you can see they are a bit manky but the working piston is nice and shiny. The adjustment knob isn't anymore though, it definitely does not any to move any more.
Han thanks for the offer, I'll get in contact.
My trailing arm
The bushes don't look bad at all but I think Kevin is right, There is no point taking the whole thing apart then doing half a job. Currently waiting on a quote to get the arms blasted and powder coated then I'll get some power flex bushes and put them in. Hopefully a vice will do for putting them in otherwise a trip to my local friendly garage may be in order.
As for my shocks, you can see they are a bit manky but the working piston is nice and shiny. The adjustment knob isn't anymore though, it definitely does not any to move any more.
Han thanks for the offer, I'll get in contact.
Hi Tom, there must be somewhere near you in Southampton who does chemical cleaning rather than blast cleaning. From experience it is very difficult to get a blast cleaner to do them well, especially to the bottom of the tubes, without any damage, while a chemical strip will clean all the difficult inside bits. Mine looked a lot better than yours, I cleaned the worst off with a scraper and grease remover then had it dipped. It was all fine EXCEPT one of the smaller tubes, the one from the outer bush to the hub, was full of pinholes and proved very thin. Whether the original powder coating failed early I dont know but there was no doubt that tube had to be replaced.
There is also a very small boxed in area near the inner bush, water can get into these via a 'blow' hole in the weld. Drill a 5mm hole in the underside, before treatment, so it can cleaned and powder coated as well.
There is also a very small boxed in area near the inner bush, water can get into these via a 'blow' hole in the weld. Drill a 5mm hole in the underside, before treatment, so it can cleaned and powder coated as well.
The rear poly bushes supplied by Steve Heath come in 3 parts. Push a poly part in each side then the metal tube down the middle. Very easy.
As for the 2 piece bushes for the front such as the ones below. They are not quite so easy so it's probably best to leave them to a garage to sort out.
As for the 2 piece bushes for the front such as the ones below. They are not quite so easy so it's probably best to leave them to a garage to sort out.
Oh, and if I was treating my trailing arms I would drill out the bushes then take them to a specialist to sandblast. This can be done without any prior prep of the trailing arm. Then have them powder coated. Make sure that the insides are fully covered, this includes the back of the plate on the rear of the main arm and the tube. Apply liberal coatings of waxoyl to these parts too before returning to the car. This is exactly what I have done to mine. Gratuitous photo of shiny trailing arms below.
G
G
Edited by The Big G on Thursday 15th March 18:49
The Big G said:
Oh, and if I was treating my trailing arms I would drill out the bushes then take them to a specialist to sandblast. This can be done without any prior prep of the trailing arm. Then have them powder coated. Make sure that the insides are fully covered, this includes the back of the plate on the rear of the main arm and the tube. Apply liberal coatings of waxoyl to these parts too before returning to the car. This is exactly what I have done to mine. Gratuitous photo of shiny trailing arms below.
G
Nick's just seen this, and his jaw dropped. Is your car an S4, or have you done the rear disc mod too? Also, the exhaust bushes to the right of the pic, where do you get those? Nick has one on each side, but needs two more!G
Edited by The Big G on Thursday 15th March 18:49
Thanks for the replies, and that gratuitous picture 
I am very jealous as you can guess what the same picture would look like on my car from the state of the trailing arms! Here is a picture anyway to demonstrate.
On a side note is everyone else's fuel filter held on with a zip tie!?
greymrj: I have looked at alternatives to blasting such as chemical dips but I'm drawing blanks finding anyone who does it. I didn't know about that small enclosed section though, I'll have a look at that.
Unless I can find someone to do a chemical treatment I will get it shot blasted but I'll make sure I have a chat with the guys doing it to point out the problem areas. I really want to get it done properly so I don't have to worry about it for a while! I've also got some Bilt Hamber Dynax UB (rather than WaxOyl) to coat them with after they are powder coated which should protect them well.
On the bushes front I was looking at getting a set from Larkspeed rather than Steve Heath just because my suspension bolts are in pretty good shape so I'll re use them and don't want to pay for a new set. I assume those are the same ones, the 2 piece ones look easy to put in with the aid of a vice.
ETA: My chassis use to be white originally!!
I am very jealous as you can guess what the same picture would look like on my car from the state of the trailing arms! Here is a picture anyway to demonstrate.On a side note is everyone else's fuel filter held on with a zip tie!?
greymrj: I have looked at alternatives to blasting such as chemical dips but I'm drawing blanks finding anyone who does it. I didn't know about that small enclosed section though, I'll have a look at that.
Unless I can find someone to do a chemical treatment I will get it shot blasted but I'll make sure I have a chat with the guys doing it to point out the problem areas. I really want to get it done properly so I don't have to worry about it for a while! I've also got some Bilt Hamber Dynax UB (rather than WaxOyl) to coat them with after they are powder coated which should protect them well.
On the bushes front I was looking at getting a set from Larkspeed rather than Steve Heath just because my suspension bolts are in pretty good shape so I'll re use them and don't want to pay for a new set. I assume those are the same ones, the 2 piece ones look easy to put in with the aid of a vice.
ETA: My chassis use to be white originally!!
A couple of points:
The Larkspeed prices for the S series don't make any sense at all. Their price for a pair of bushes is the same as for a kit of 4.
If you don't want the bolts, then we can do a deal without them. 80 inc VAT and Delivery
The reason why I typically include new bolts is because it is common to destroy a bolt or two in the disassembly process. The nylocs also need to be replaced rather than reused. I've also got a special batch - they have been very hard to find - and had them zinc plated.
BTW I was the guy that persuaded Powerflex to do the S series bushes in the first place! A little bit of support would be appreciated.
The Larkspeed prices for the S series don't make any sense at all. Their price for a pair of bushes is the same as for a kit of 4.
If you don't want the bolts, then we can do a deal without them. 80 inc VAT and Delivery
The reason why I typically include new bolts is because it is common to destroy a bolt or two in the disassembly process. The nylocs also need to be replaced rather than reused. I've also got a special batch - they have been very hard to find - and had them zinc plated.
BTW I was the guy that persuaded Powerflex to do the S series bushes in the first place! A little bit of support would be appreciated.
Edited by shpub on Friday 16th March 09:25
orange_dodo said:
On a side note is everyone else's fuel filter held on with a zip tie!?
No! There was on mine originally a piece of metal strap steel formed in a loop with a tag on the end and some method of tensioning it up. It was so badly corroded it wasn't salvageable when I restored the chassis so I binned it, it wasn't too difficult to fabricate something similar though. If you look there is probably somewhere around that area that has a location to bolt it to.Steve, I didn't see that oddity on the Larkspeed site. I was under the impression that I got 4 bushes from Larkspeed for $40 or 4 bushes and 6 bolts from you for $90. As I didn't need them I didn't want to spend $50 on bolts!
I just called Larkspeed to ask about the 2 different products at the same price and they confirmed you only get 2 bushes for $40 not 4.
I am greatful that you have created good products for the S Series Steve as it is a very limited niche market and I would like to support you because of that. However I thought I was getting the same product for half the price and I wasn't going to pass up an offer like that. As I now see though you aren't charging ~$10 per bolt or double the amount for the bushes, more like ~$2 for the bolts and the going rate for the bushes. I'm quite happy to support your company and get the bolts too now.
Anyway I'm glad you said something as I would have only bought 2 bushes and been stuck with only half my rear suspension!
ETA: For some reason pound signs aren't working for me so I've substituted dollar signs as they seem to work fine
!
I just called Larkspeed to ask about the 2 different products at the same price and they confirmed you only get 2 bushes for $40 not 4.
I am greatful that you have created good products for the S Series Steve as it is a very limited niche market and I would like to support you because of that. However I thought I was getting the same product for half the price and I wasn't going to pass up an offer like that. As I now see though you aren't charging ~$10 per bolt or double the amount for the bushes, more like ~$2 for the bolts and the going rate for the bushes. I'm quite happy to support your company and get the bolts too now.
Anyway I'm glad you said something as I would have only bought 2 bushes and been stuck with only half my rear suspension!
toast boy said:
No! There was on mine originally a piece of metal strap steel formed in a loop with a tag on the end and some method of tensioning it up. It was so badly corroded it wasn't salvageable when I restored the chassis so I binned it, it wasn't too difficult to fabricate something similar though. If you look there is probably somewhere around that area that has a location to bolt it to.
Right looks like I need to fabricate a slightly more secure mount as well!!ETA: For some reason pound signs aren't working for me so I've substituted dollar signs as they seem to work fine
!Edited by orange_dodo on Friday 16th March 15:32
King Fisher said:
Nick's just seen this, and his jaw dropped. Is your car an S4, or have you done the rear disc mod too? Also, the exhaust bushes to the right of the pic, where do you get those? Nick has one on each side, but needs two more!
Thanks for the kind words, the car is a V8s so rear disks are standard. As for exhaust mounting bushes, I purchased mine last winter from tvr car parts who are unfortunately for all concerned no longer trading. TVR power seem to do something that looks similar in there exhaust section.
Not sure if they are the correct size as thats not listed on their website but they may do the job.
orange_dodo said:
Right looks like I need to fabricate a slightly more secure mount as well!!
My fuel filter mount looked like this before sending it away to be powder coated
A bolt goes through 1 to clamp the filter in place. It then bolts to the top of the diff mount through 2. Or at least it does on mine, although it may be different on yours as I think the V8s has a different rear diff.
View from below.
The last one is from the driver side but its the same as the passenger side showing where the mounting bolt is located. Hopefully these help. Its now fitted to the car but I don't have any photos of that side. If you wish I can take a couple when I am next in the garage.
ETA and you can see what my chassis was like before I started this winter!!
Edited by The Big G on Friday 16th March 14:49
Thanks Gordon, I followed your lead and made up a bracket to hold the fuel filter. It's a 2mm galvanised steel bar that attaches to that diff bolt and supports the load and underneath that is a loop of aluminium to hold the filter to it.
That should be a lot safer than a strained fuel pipe and a couple of zip ties!
That should be a lot safer than a strained fuel pipe and a couple of zip ties!
On a separate note I'm taking my trailing arms to be shot blasted, zinc plated and powder coated tomorrow (if I can get the old bushes out!).
I was going to tell them not to powder coat the hub mounting bolt holes and the threaded rod that the handbrake cable is bolted to. Is there any other part that should be powder coated such as the holes the bushes mount in or the hole the drive shaft goes through?
Any advice would be appreciated!
ETA:
To answer my own question I got the hub mounting holes, bush holes and threaded rod blanked off. The hub mounting holes still needed a tap running down them to clear them out.
I was going to tell them not to powder coat the hub mounting bolt holes and the threaded rod that the handbrake cable is bolted to. Is there any other part that should be powder coated such as the holes the bushes mount in or the hole the drive shaft goes through?
Any advice would be appreciated!
ETA:
To answer my own question I got the hub mounting holes, bush holes and threaded rod blanked off. The hub mounting holes still needed a tap running down them to clear them out.
Edited by orange_dodo on Saturday 5th May 18:27
Finally I have got everything back together and the brakes bled. That was a mission!
Getting the trailing arms into position with the new bushes in was one hell of a job. Took lots of grease various leavers and a lot of brute strength to get them into position!
Here are some gratuitous photos:
My chassis looks horrible now! going to have to do a body off as my next project.
Getting the trailing arms into position with the new bushes in was one hell of a job. Took lots of grease various leavers and a lot of brute strength to get them into position!
Here are some gratuitous photos:
My chassis looks horrible now! going to have to do a body off as my next project.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff