Discussion
OK, yesterday I had to get somewhere kinda quickly so I took a road that is single track, good voisiblity, but lots of long straights followed by tight, low speed corners! I had some fun and a good laugh until the junction with the main road, at which, I couldn't stop!
Loads of squealing but nothing else!
Ford Orion 1.4. Standard Vented Discs and normal pads!
What can I do to improve the brakin ability and prevent fade in the future?!
Cheers
Stuart!
Loads of squealing but nothing else!
Ford Orion 1.4. Standard Vented Discs and normal pads!
What can I do to improve the brakin ability and prevent fade in the future?!
Cheers
Stuart!
quote:
OK, yesterday I had to get somewhere kinda quickly so I took a road that is single track, good voisiblity, but lots of long straights followed by tight, low speed corners! I had some fun and a good laugh until the junction with the main road, at which, I couldn't stop!
Loads of squealing but nothing else!
Ford Orion 1.4. Standard Vented Discs and normal pads!
What can I do to improve the brakin ability and prevent fade in the future?!
Cheers
Stuart!
EBC Turbogroove disks + Greenstuff pads + DOT 5.1 fluid
They do them for Escort RS Turbos, which I would assume would fit your car - you would have to check whether your callipers are suitable.
cheers,
Craig
EBC Turbogroove disks + Greenstuff pads + DOT 5.1 fluid
They do them for Escort RS Turbos,
Much as it pains me to confess, in the dim distant past, many moons ago, when Noah was a lad, honest.
I had a D reg XR3i (see I've said it am i cured no) however apart from being the ultimate Max Power machine complete with Power Engineering 2litre conversion plus turbo I did a similar Tar Ox grooved disc convertion and it improved the stopping massively, they're not cheap and in this case they might be a bit OTT expect about a £500 total bill for discs,pads,braided lines, and fluid.
Well, you *could* sell the car to fund the Tarox discs.. or not.. 
First of all, I'd be inclined to bleed the brakes as there;s a chance that the fluid boiled in the cylinders.. and if that's happened then the fluid id goosed forever now - that's an opportunity to put tastier fluid in..
I'd leave the discs alone for now - were they standard on the Orion anyway? (That said my sierra diesel had them)
Also, I'd question whether the Ford pads are likely to be any better than patent parts - after all - it's a 1.4 orion and it's not designed to be driven like an Evo VI
Perhaps the Green Stuff pads are the ones to go for, that said I have no 1st hand experience of those..
First of all, I'd be inclined to bleed the brakes as there;s a chance that the fluid boiled in the cylinders.. and if that's happened then the fluid id goosed forever now - that's an opportunity to put tastier fluid in..
I'd leave the discs alone for now - were they standard on the Orion anyway? (That said my sierra diesel had them
) Also, I'd question whether the Ford pads are likely to be any better than patent parts - after all - it's a 1.4 orion and it's not designed to be driven like an Evo VI
Perhaps the Green Stuff pads are the ones to go for, that said I have no 1st hand experience of those..
quote:
Well, you *could* sell the car to fund the Tarox discs.. or not..
First of all, I'd be inclined to bleed the brakes as there;s a chance that the fluid boiled in the cylinders.. and if that's happened then the fluid id goosed forever now - that's an opportunity to put tastier fluid in..
Don't think the fluid boiled, I've done that before as well!
the brakes cooled by the next bend and were fine! quote:
I'd leave the discs alone for now - were they standard on the Orion anyway? (That said my sierra diesel had them
Yep, perfectly standard, they are a bit knackered (or, at least they are now anyway
) so I was looking to replace them soon! quote:
Also, I'd question whether the Ford pads are likely to be any better than patent parts - after all - it's a 1.4 orion and it's not designed to be driven like an Evo VI
I've just replaced the pads not long ago, but they were with some shitty pads from the local MF! I wasn't driving it like an Evo VI, more like a Subaru
quote:
Perhaps the Green Stuff pads are the ones to go for, that said I have no 1st hand experience of those..
Anyone got a web site for EBC or a supplier or even a price?!?!
In this order try the following:
1. Get some cool air onto the discs/pads. Either remove the dust sheilds (otherwise known as brake heaters) or use tin snips to cut a "flap" out of them, then use flexible hose and cable ties to duct cold air. You don't need to duct from the spoiler, beneath the wishbone is easier and there is plenty of cold air there. If you leave the shields in place, the flap you cut can be used to tie the hose to.
2. Change brake fluid as boiling point decreases with age.
3. Change pads. OEM or better and maybe new OEM discs if they are really thin.
4. Change cars
IMHO you want to be real careful about spending too much £££. Also IMHO grooved discs will do nothing to cool your brakes - or very, very little. People are inclined to spend a fortune on brake upgrades but forget that cold air is free.
1. Get some cool air onto the discs/pads. Either remove the dust sheilds (otherwise known as brake heaters) or use tin snips to cut a "flap" out of them, then use flexible hose and cable ties to duct cold air. You don't need to duct from the spoiler, beneath the wishbone is easier and there is plenty of cold air there. If you leave the shields in place, the flap you cut can be used to tie the hose to.
2. Change brake fluid as boiling point decreases with age.
3. Change pads. OEM or better and maybe new OEM discs if they are really thin.
4. Change cars
IMHO you want to be real careful about spending too much £££. Also IMHO grooved discs will do nothing to cool your brakes - or very, very little. People are inclined to spend a fortune on brake upgrades but forget that cold air is free.
quote:
Anyone got a web site for EBC or a supplier or even a price?!?!
A quick web search threw up:
www.amber-performance.co.uk/fordbrakes.html
quote:
In this order try the following:
1. Get some cool air onto the discs/pads. Either remove the dust sheilds (otherwise known as brake heaters) or use tin snips to cut a "flap" out of them, then use flexible hose and cable ties to duct cold air. You don't need to duct from the spoiler, beneath the wishbone is easier and there is plenty of cold air there. If you leave the shields in place, the flap you cut can be used to tie the hose to.
2. Change brake fluid as boiling point decreases with age.
3. Change pads. OEM or better and maybe new OEM discs if they are really thin.
4. Change cars
IMHO you want to be real careful about spending too much £££. Also IMHO grooved discs will do nothing to cool your brakes - or very, very little. People are inclined to spend a fortune on brake upgrades but forget that cold air is free.
1. take it using pipe like air Intake pipe similar to the stuff found on Pipercross/K&N systems is the stuff?! What about the 'scoop'?? Where do I duct the air to? The caliper, in front, on top, on the inside? Should I becareful about restricting airflow to the engine/rad or not?!?!
This 'Heater' thing, it's the thin metal on the inside of the disc, yes? Would removing that make a great deal of difference?!
2. What sort of fluid? how is it rated?
3. As i said earlier I going to look at EBC!
4. Give me a few years and I'll be driving a Griff, SEAC or Tuscan!!!
>> Edited by tvradict on Tuesday 28th May 19:23
quote:
quote:
I've just replaced the pads not long ago, but they were with some shitty pads from the local MF! I wasn't driving it like an Evo VI, more like a Subaru
Nuff said - change them pads ASAP
Will do!! Cheers! Have to find a supplier of EBC!! Then I can have some real fun!
Oh, and let me know if you ever decide to sell that SEAC of yours
Everybody is commenting on the front brakes. Check the rear shoes and drums. The self adjusters on Orions and Escorts never did work properly, and I'll bet they need looking at. No good spending money on the front if the rears have had it, and besides, it's cheaper to sort the back out first.
As previously mentioned, grooved discs do little for cooling. The grooves are there to help prevent the pads from glazing.
What ever you do, CHANGE THE FLUID! You can spend all you like on fancy discs & pads. Brake fade is slightly amusing as it tends to be progresive. Boiled fluid will kill you. The brakes are there, then they are not. A mate of mine lost his very fast Cossie at about 140 on a track day. No fade, just boiled fluid!!! Only salvageable component was the chassis number plate.
What ever you do, CHANGE THE FLUID! You can spend all you like on fancy discs & pads. Brake fade is slightly amusing as it tends to be progresive. Boiled fluid will kill you. The brakes are there, then they are not. A mate of mine lost his very fast Cossie at about 140 on a track day. No fade, just boiled fluid!!! Only salvageable component was the chassis number plate.
Noel Flannery at V8sports supplied me with EBC discs and green stuff pads. While they were intended for a chimaera, they are the same as those fitted to some Fords. They seem to make a difference over the previous ones and don't eat pads quite as quickly. Give him a ring and he may be able to help.
He's on 07980 652 447 or 01620 844 800, and he'll give you his thoughts on the matter. Tell him you got the number from Pistonheads.
R
He's on 07980 652 447 or 01620 844 800, and he'll give you his thoughts on the matter. Tell him you got the number from Pistonheads.
R
quote:
Everybody is commenting on the front brakes. Check the rear shoes and drums. The self adjusters on Orions and Escorts never did work properly, and I'll bet they need looking at. No good spending money on the front if the rears have had it, and besides, it's cheaper to sort the back out first.
Thats because on a front drive car, the rear brakes do pretty much close to bog all in terms of slowing the car - especially when driving 1 up and pressing on a bit. All the weight transfers to the fronts, the rear tyres go light, with very little real grip on the road. But no harm in getting them sorted as well. IMHO.
quote:
Thats because on a front drive car, the rear brakes do pretty much close to bog all in terms of slowing the car - especially when driving 1 up and pressing on a bit. All the weight transfers to the fronts, the rear tyres go light, with very little real grip on the road. But no harm in getting them sorted as well. IMHO.
That may be the case, but I cooked the rear brakes on my chimaera at Croft while the fronts were fine. It still screwed up the entire braking system, resulting in no brakes going into Tower. The system needs looking at as a whole. That's why it's called a system
>> Edited by yum on Wednesday 29th May 12:20
Had a similar experience a few years ago now with a road I didn't know. Fortunately it was a case of OH SHIT! Just have to corner at this speed then.... rather than a junction incident.
I would agree with a disc 'n' pad 'n' fluid upgrade. I run EBC turbo groove disks and pads which a far superior to original equipment when the heat is on but I've never got cooked the fluid since my previous learning experience.
As a well travelled Scot, what road out of curiousity?
I would agree with a disc 'n' pad 'n' fluid upgrade. I run EBC turbo groove disks and pads which a far superior to original equipment when the heat is on but I've never got cooked the fluid since my previous learning experience.
As a well travelled Scot, what road out of curiousity?
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