991 - where to apply paint film??
991 - where to apply paint film??
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Discussion

PocoLoco

Original Poster:

112 posts

193 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
quotequote all
I have a solid black 991 being built and now spending too many hours researching paint protection film options.

The bumper plus full front kit (bonnet, mirrors, fenders) are likely, but was wondering if I should consider elsewhere...

The rockers under the doors can be covered, as can a larger part in front of the rear wheel (replacing the OEM's small film ).

Any suggestions?

rog007

5,831 posts

254 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
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I just couldn't put Sellotape all over my brand new shiny car, I just couldn't!










weeping

Sandy59

2,733 posts

241 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
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I'd definitely add the sills and larger rear wheel arch section with all edges wrapped where possible.

Trev450

6,771 posts

202 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
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Possibly mirrors too.

khushy

3,984 posts

249 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
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Front & rear bumpers, bonnet, a pillar, door edges, wing mirrors, sills and inside kick panels plus the wheels arches, as far in as possible.

Seeing as on the spyder you have to shut the rear boot with the spoiler, thats been done too.

rob.kellock

2,252 posts

222 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
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khushy said:
Seeing as on the spyder you have to shut the rear boot with the spoiler,
I don't do that - just press down on the badge. Same with the front bonnet.

spareparts

6,796 posts

257 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
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However much coverage, I would recommend going for the new Xpel Ultimate film - it is extremely resilient and the manufacturer claims as a self-repairing film are certainly true (I did the wire brush test on a test patch of film, and saw the scratches disappear within seconds).

In comparison, Ventureshield can be applied very easily, BUT IT IS TOO THIN to provide worthwhile protection - a stone can easily rip through and still damage the paint underneath.

Whatever film you choose, DO NOT LET ANY SUPPLIER CUT FILM ON YOUR CAR - ENSURE THE FILM IS PRECUT. AND ENSURE THE SUPPLIER WILL PROVIDE A FULL WARRANTY - BOTH PARTS AND LABOUR.

PocoLoco

Original Poster:

112 posts

193 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
quotequote all
khushy said:
Front & rear bumpers, bonnet, a pillar, door edges, wing mirrors, sills and inside kick panels plus the wheels arches, as far in as possible.

Seeing as on the spyder you have to shut the rear boot with the spoiler, thats been done too.
Thanks, this is more coverage than i'd initially considered. Very basic questions if i can:

Door edges - do they make a custom strip for just the edge?

Sills - are these the part underneath the doors? (rocker)

Inside kick panels - i'm not sure where this is?


Durzel

12,999 posts

198 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
quotequote all
I have to ask - who does this film benefit? You or the next owner of your car?

I've yet to see a plastic paint protection film that hasn't diminished the gloss of the paint.

khushy

3,984 posts

249 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
quotequote all
PocoLoco said:
Thanks, this is more coverage than i'd initially considered. Very basic questions if i can:

Door edges - do they make a custom strip for just the edge?

Sills - are these the part underneath the doors? (rocker)

Inside kick panels - i'm not sure where this is?
its all the high impact areas of your car . . .

stand in front of your car - anything you can see a stone can too - when you get in and out, thats high impact as well and DEFINITELY the wheel arches as far in as you can go!

khushy

spareparts

6,796 posts

257 months

Friday 2nd March 2012
quotequote all
For the duration of ownership, I hate stonechips or having to deal with scratches. A good film protects against both of those.

Buyers of used cars also tend to question when a car has had to be repainted - for whatever reason.

So I think protecting the original paint that the car came from the factory with, is always a good idea. More so for ME, rather than the next owner.

A good supplier can make the film invisible, although I agree that there is nothing compared to a freshly detailed car. Sadly no car ever stays with the 'freshly detailed finish'. If you have a dark painted car, it will not be clean within 1 day of driving and film/no film, the car looks the same.

PocoLoco

Original Poster:

112 posts

193 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
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Very helpful - thanks.

Sounds like the front of the car and sills (incl front of rear wheels) need to get attention.


exigepete

1,005 posts

233 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
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I would go for the same as I have on my RS and had on my old C2S and Mitisi Evo:

Full frontal (Bonnet, wings, bumper, mirrors, headlights, indicators) and extended rear arch sections.

99% of people do not even realise its fitted, doesn't affect the gloss look of the paint and its certainly not sellotape as mentioned earlier in this thread!

To me the benefit is the paintwork stays pristine, hate that 'Semi chipped up limbo in between front end re-spray look!'

Tom at Paintshield has done five of my cars, highly recommend him.

Delbox

260 posts

258 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
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Tom and his team at Paintshield have covered a number of my cars in paint protection film (PPF). The first, a 997 C4s, was Basalt Black and PPF covered the whole front: PU, bonnet, wings and mirror backs; then a 987 3.4S Boxster in Meteor Grey and, again, the full frontal area was protected. My daughter's Beetle Cabriolet, painted in Harvest Moon (a light cream colour)also had the full front covered; this was an unfamiliar car to Tom so a bespoke CAD was produced and the film panels cut. As is always the case with Paintshield, NO cutting is done on the car; PPF parts are produced away from the vehicle to CADs and then applied to each corresponding body panel. My 996 Turbo, with factory-fitted aerokit, and painted in Polar Silver benefitted from being completely covered in PPF - from to rear, sill panels to roof! And nobody has ever made adverse comment about the fit, finish or application on any of the cars - and none have even noticed until the PPF has been pointed out.

PPF is easily cared for - if you follow Tom's simple instructions, and shines as well as the paint underneath. On light coloured cars, it can appear that the film has yellowed; but this is the result of petroleum based contaminant that can be cleaned - with ease, if dealt with early, or greater effort if the contaminants are allowed to remain. It's not a cheap product but, to use the Ronseal maxim, PPF does what it says (on the tin); of course you can choose to respray damaged paintwork but the costs of a factory finish and the loss of the vehicle for the time can be more than offset by the benefits of PPF. Indeed, you get the front PU resprayed then, while driving home, it gets chipped again! That doesn't happen with PPF!!

If you don't believe me, go and speak with Tom and the Paintshield team at their Peterborough facility; it won't be a wasted trip. And ask about the Paintshield warranty - awesome!

Del

SonnyM

3,475 posts

223 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
quotequote all
Durzel said:
I have to ask - who does this film benefit? You or the next owner of your car?

I've yet to see a plastic paint protection film that hasn't diminished the gloss of the paint.
No film to date will allow the quality of the original paint finish to look as good as it does without the film.

What you really need to think about is how long you plan to keep the car. Because if it is costing you £2000-3000 to cover most or all of your car with XPEL, how many professional details and stone chip resprays will that buy over the period of ownership?

If you trade into an OPC they have to remove the film to resell the car, and will give you a trade price reflective of this.

If someone hits your car and you have to have the bumper replaced, you will have to have the film replcaed too, otherwise it may look odd with the bumper not covered for example. Either way you would have to have the new bumper painted!

Think about this carefully before you go ahead and IMO only cover the bits that you think really need it otherwise its just money down the drain. Learn from my mistake.


spareparts

6,796 posts

257 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
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SonnyM said:
No film to date will allow the quality of the original paint finish to look as good as it does without the film.
Agreed. However, I think the new XPel film provides a very good clearcoat finish - certainly the best I've seen compared to both 3M and Ventureshield. The XPel gloss is very even and is comparable to raw clearcoat.

PocoLoco

Original Poster:

112 posts

193 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
quotequote all
Thanks again. Sound advice.

Slightly off topic, but has anyone used a car transport company (enclosed) to move their vehicle? I have the 991 arriving into London but want to get it over to Paintshield in Petersborough before it is exposed to the elements (read: road debris).


Sandy59

2,733 posts

241 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
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I used this company : http://www.lizardlogistics.com/ for exactly that same reason, top service.

SonnyM

3,475 posts

223 months

Saturday 3rd March 2012
quotequote all
PocoLoco said:
Thanks again. Sound advice.

Slightly off topic, but has anyone used a car transport company (enclosed) to move their vehicle? I have the 991 arriving into London but want to get it over to Paintshield in Petersborough before it is exposed to the elements (read: road debris).
Speak with Tom as he mentioned they offer this service when I was there and I think he said they use a company that deals with prestige marques.

Popolou

1,262 posts

237 months

Sunday 4th March 2012
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spareparts said:
Whatever film you choose, DO NOT LET ANY SUPPLIER CUT FILM ON YOUR CAR - ENSURE THE FILM IS PRECUT. AND ENSURE THE SUPPLIER WILL PROVIDE A FULL WARRANTY - BOTH PARTS AND LABOUR.
The more reputable of the installers out there will warrant their work even to the point that they will replace film that hadn't adhered to panels correctly or show even the slightest imperfections long after you've driven away. However, bear in mind that until the head office for both the major brands have prepared the computer models for their plotters, the work will all be done on the bench by hand before offered up to the car. It's a time consuming process.

Case in point is when i had a full body on a GT Speed which, without a computer template available needed quite a bit of improvisation. Ultimately, any work that borders on custom is best left to the two well known installers in the community of which Tom is one and Nick Phelps and brother Tim of Curvature Group the other. You could do a lot worse than seeking their advice.