Discussion
Hi
I've been using the cycling machines at the gym, and noticed that I automatically seem to settle into a cadence of 89-90 rpm (assuming the machine is fairly accurate)
Is there any way of working out your most efficient cadence? Spinning faster seems to tire me out more, but I'm training for a 100km ride in June, and want to make sure I'm not wasting any of my precious energy pushing harder at higher gears
(tried using the search, but it seems to be on a permanent holiday...)
I've been using the cycling machines at the gym, and noticed that I automatically seem to settle into a cadence of 89-90 rpm (assuming the machine is fairly accurate)
Is there any way of working out your most efficient cadence? Spinning faster seems to tire me out more, but I'm training for a 100km ride in June, and want to make sure I'm not wasting any of my precious energy pushing harder at higher gears
(tried using the search, but it seems to be on a permanent holiday...)
Burrow01 said:
Hi
I've been using the cycling machines at the gym, and noticed that I automatically seem to settle into a cadence of 89-90 rpm (assuming the machine is fairly accurate)
Is there any way of working out your most efficient cadence? Spinning faster seems to tire me out more, but I'm training for a 100km ride in June, and want to make sure I'm not wasting any of my precious energy pushing harder at higher gears
(tried using the search, but it seems to be on a permanent holiday...)
I believe the theory is that, although the most energy-efficient cadence is around 65rpm, the optimum overall is ~90rpm as you get less muscle fatigue than you do at lower cadences.I've been using the cycling machines at the gym, and noticed that I automatically seem to settle into a cadence of 89-90 rpm (assuming the machine is fairly accurate)
Is there any way of working out your most efficient cadence? Spinning faster seems to tire me out more, but I'm training for a 100km ride in June, and want to make sure I'm not wasting any of my precious energy pushing harder at higher gears
(tried using the search, but it seems to be on a permanent holiday...)
This will vary a little between individuals, but sounds like you've settled into pretty much the perfect cadence.
samwilliams said:
Burrow01 said:
Hi
I've been using the cycling machines at the gym, and noticed that I automatically seem to settle into a cadence of 89-90 rpm (assuming the machine is fairly accurate)
Is there any way of working out your most efficient cadence? Spinning faster seems to tire me out more, but I'm training for a 100km ride in June, and want to make sure I'm not wasting any of my precious energy pushing harder at higher gears
(tried using the search, but it seems to be on a permanent holiday...)
I believe the theory is that, although the most energy-efficient cadence is around 65rpm, the optimum overall is ~90rpm as you get less muscle fatigue than you do at lower cadences.I've been using the cycling machines at the gym, and noticed that I automatically seem to settle into a cadence of 89-90 rpm (assuming the machine is fairly accurate)
Is there any way of working out your most efficient cadence? Spinning faster seems to tire me out more, but I'm training for a 100km ride in June, and want to make sure I'm not wasting any of my precious energy pushing harder at higher gears
(tried using the search, but it seems to be on a permanent holiday...)
This will vary a little between individuals, but sounds like you've settled into pretty much the perfect cadence.
I am relatively new to this cycling malarkey, but the books/mags I have read seem to say around 90-100 rpm is a good target to aim at. I do gym work as well and I don't particularly like turning the pedals faster than 100-110 rpm.
I took my bike out the other day with a computer and tried to duplicate the 90rpm target I use in the gym. Depending on the bike's gearing, 90 rpm gets me to 32mph on the flat - sweet, if I could keep it up....
I took my bike out the other day with a computer and tried to duplicate the 90rpm target I use in the gym. Depending on the bike's gearing, 90 rpm gets me to 32mph on the flat - sweet, if I could keep it up....
Seems to be a bit of a subjective topic, but you will find that most of the training manuals advise the amature rider to aim for 80-90 rpms on the road.
When I first started riding again I was finding that I was grinding along at 65-80 rpm, trying to achieve 90 felt, well - odd and a tad too fast! I now ride most of the time on the road at 90+ rpm, anything else seems too slow, on an hours steady session on the turbo trainer I tend to spin along between 100-105rpm, and when I am doing interval sessions on the turbo trainer usually spin out at 115-120 rpm.
I used to suffer from cramp while on the road when climbing or sprinting, since learning to ride at a higher cadence I have never suffered. I have also found that I can spin along quite happily for hours without getting too fatigued. Last Saturday I went out for what I had planned to be a quick 25-30 mile ride, as the morning was so nice I decided to extend my route via the Chilterns and then via Windsor for a coffee on the way home. What started out as a 25-30 mile ride ended up being 62 miles, something I could not have dreamt of 18 months ago.
When I first started riding again I was finding that I was grinding along at 65-80 rpm, trying to achieve 90 felt, well - odd and a tad too fast! I now ride most of the time on the road at 90+ rpm, anything else seems too slow, on an hours steady session on the turbo trainer I tend to spin along between 100-105rpm, and when I am doing interval sessions on the turbo trainer usually spin out at 115-120 rpm.
I used to suffer from cramp while on the road when climbing or sprinting, since learning to ride at a higher cadence I have never suffered. I have also found that I can spin along quite happily for hours without getting too fatigued. Last Saturday I went out for what I had planned to be a quick 25-30 mile ride, as the morning was so nice I decided to extend my route via the Chilterns and then via Windsor for a coffee on the way home. What started out as a 25-30 mile ride ended up being 62 miles, something I could not have dreamt of 18 months ago.
Thanks for all the comments, it sounds as if I'm in the right zone
Next question for those who have cadence meters on their bikes, is the cadence you do in the gym / turbo trainer the similar as that on the bike outside, i.e. if I'm doing 90rpm indoors on a trainer, is it likely thats what I'm adopting outside on a real bike? (or should I just buy a shiny thing that measures cadence
)
Next question for those who have cadence meters on their bikes, is the cadence you do in the gym / turbo trainer the similar as that on the bike outside, i.e. if I'm doing 90rpm indoors on a trainer, is it likely thats what I'm adopting outside on a real bike? (or should I just buy a shiny thing that measures cadence
)Burrow01 said:
Next question for those who have cadence meters on their bikes, is the cadence you do in the gym / turbo trainer the similar as that on the bike outside, i.e. if I'm doing 90rpm indoors on a trainer, is it likely thats what I'm adopting outside on a real bike? (or should I just buy a shiny thing that measures cadence )
Nope, road surface, wind, hills etc will all have an impact on your cadence (and speed), on a TT or gym bike the resistance/friction will remain static however on the road it changes every few foot. If you are serious about raising your cadence (and subsequently stamina, speed, etc) I would recommend investing in a cadence meter, when I first bought mine it really helped to transform my riding style - I have the odd glance down at it now and again but can recognise when I am spinning too slowly and therefore grinding a little too hard! )Burrow01 said:
Thanks for all the comments, it sounds as if I'm in the right zone
Next question for those who have cadence meters on their bikes, is the cadence you do in the gym / turbo trainer the similar as that on the bike outside, i.e. if I'm doing 90rpm indoors on a trainer, is it likely thats what I'm adopting outside on a real bike? (or should I just buy a shiny thing that measures cadence )
Most semi decent cycle computers will happily measure cadence, it's certainly a feature worth having.Next question for those who have cadence meters on their bikes, is the cadence you do in the gym / turbo trainer the similar as that on the bike outside, i.e. if I'm doing 90rpm indoors on a trainer, is it likely thats what I'm adopting outside on a real bike? (or should I just buy a shiny thing that measures cadence
)MadDad said:
Burrow01 said:
Next question for those who have cadence meters on their bikes, is the cadence you do in the gym / turbo trainer the similar as that on the bike outside, i.e. if I'm doing 90rpm indoors on a trainer, is it likely thats what I'm adopting outside on a real bike? (or should I just buy a shiny thing that measures cadence )
Nope, road surface, wind, hills etc will all have an impact on your cadence (and speed), on a TT or gym bike the resistance/friction will remain static however on the road it changes every few foot. If you are serious about raising your cadence (and subsequently stamina, speed, etc) I would recommend investing in a cadence meter, when I first bought mine it really helped to transform my riding style - I have the odd glance down at it now and again but can recognise when I am spinning too slowly and therefore grinding a little too hard! )I think there is a pretty big difference between a bike and a gym personally (i.e.harder on a bike)....but having said that I find it easier to get into a rhythm on a bike as mechanically a road bike is just so much smoother.
I picked up this http://www.wiggle.co.uk/vdo-x1dw-cad-digital-wirel... at the tail end of last season, I've just started using again in the past few weeks and having the cadence displayed really does make a difference, if I'm sat at 90+ the bike feels alive and my legs also thank me for it.
Have a look at the data from my Garmin edge 500 http://connect.garmin.com/activity/153926544
This ride was with a following wind mainly on the flat and I was feeling reasonably good.
This ride was with a following wind mainly on the flat and I was feeling reasonably good.
You said you were feeling good, and had a following wind, but "Max Speed: 78.0 mph" good ??????? Shurely there musht be shome mishtake? I'm all spun out, and couraged out at about 43mph on a compact chainset on the steepest hill I can find around this area, and in North Essex I think myself lucky to get above 35mph.
GPS will often throw up spurious fast max speeds. GPS speed and height isn't all that accurate for a simple portable GPS device. I use the Cycle Meter app on my iPhone and often see unrealistic speeds when I check the data.
I concur that 80-90 rpm is right on the road. I have a cadence meter on my bike computer to help pace myself, but it becomes natural after a short while. I find that pacing myself on a spinner at the gym is very hard. Definitely try to increase your cadence to avoid fatigue on a 100km ride. I did a 80km+ ride on Saturday - started getting a pain in my right knee about half way through - dropped a cog or two and increased cadence just a little, knee pain backed right off.
I concur that 80-90 rpm is right on the road. I have a cadence meter on my bike computer to help pace myself, but it becomes natural after a short while. I find that pacing myself on a spinner at the gym is very hard. Definitely try to increase your cadence to avoid fatigue on a 100km ride. I did a 80km+ ride on Saturday - started getting a pain in my right knee about half way through - dropped a cog or two and increased cadence just a little, knee pain backed right off.
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