External flash
Discussion
I think this may be a "how long's a piece of string" issue. As I understand it, hotshoe flashes are physically capable of shooting multiple frames/second, but the number of frames is limited by the recycle time. The recycle time is affected by the charge state of the batteries and the power that the flash is shooting. Thus, if for example the flash is on Manual at 1/64th power, the recycle time will be much less than if on full power. Also, if you have an additional auxilliary battery pack with the flash, recycle times will also be reduced.
Firstlyl, could you post an example of when you're using built in flash for motorsport/rally use please?
I'm not sure you'd get a fast enough recycle time on an external flash to shoot at 7fps without the power being on the bottom of the range, if being able to do that at all.
If you don't have enough light have you tried upping the ISO instead, or opening up the aperture to allow more light in.
I'm not sure you'd get a fast enough recycle time on an external flash to shoot at 7fps without the power being on the bottom of the range, if being able to do that at all.
If you don't have enough light have you tried upping the ISO instead, or opening up the aperture to allow more light in.
Rally events is the situation. To be more exact hairpin bends where you're standing very close to the car.
Long distance shots are fine and medium range shots are decent with single flash or a higher shutter speed.
And it doesn't have to be shot at 7FPS with a flash, just something slightly faster.
Long distance shots are fine and medium range shots are decent with single flash or a higher shutter speed.
And it doesn't have to be shot at 7FPS with a flash, just something slightly faster.
PSBuckshot said:
Rally events is the situation. To be more exact hairpin bends where you're standing very close to the car.
Long distance shots are fine and medium range shots are decent with single flash or a higher shutter speed.
And it doesn't have to be shot at 7FPS with a flash, just something slightly faster.
I think with an external flash and an external power pack might get you close to what you need assuming youa re not shooting on full power. Obviously a high ISO and as wide an aperture as possible will help too.Long distance shots are fine and medium range shots are decent with single flash or a higher shutter speed.
And it doesn't have to be shot at 7FPS with a flash, just something slightly faster.
Muska said:
So are you trying to freeze the motion of the car, or are you panning to create a sense of movement?
I can't help but feel flash is not really needed in this instance, and you could still have a decently exposed image. Any examples you have taken available?
New camera sorry and last season it was video recorded mostly, I've only recently started to get into photography. I can't help but feel flash is not really needed in this instance, and you could still have a decently exposed image. Any examples you have taken available?
For the hairpin shots I'm trying to freeze the motion and a flash does this the best.
You could also do this by selecting shutter priority and selecting a high shutter speed, making sure the ISO is upped enough to compensate. This would freeze the action for you.
A Flash gun will have a flash sync speed of 1/250th of a second (possibly 1/200th depending on model of camera used) not really fast enough to freeze the action for you, and not powerful enough to expose for the whole scene with flash power.
On some modern camera's I know you can use the camera at a shutter speed beyond 1/250th but then not all the flash power is recorded as the duration is too long for a shutter speed faster than the max flash sync speed.
I hope I'm not making this confusing, you're welcome to email me and I'll explain all this in more detail.
A Flash gun will have a flash sync speed of 1/250th of a second (possibly 1/200th depending on model of camera used) not really fast enough to freeze the action for you, and not powerful enough to expose for the whole scene with flash power.
On some modern camera's I know you can use the camera at a shutter speed beyond 1/250th but then not all the flash power is recorded as the duration is too long for a shutter speed faster than the max flash sync speed.
I hope I'm not making this confusing, you're welcome to email me and I'll explain all this in more detail.
No problem 
Shutter priority, somewhere around 1/1000th or above. If you do this in shutter priority then the camera will pick the aperture for you. Most modern camera's have an auto ISO setting too, the camera will also select the appropriate one for this too.
Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs!
Shutter priority, somewhere around 1/1000th or above. If you do this in shutter priority then the camera will pick the aperture for you. Most modern camera's have an auto ISO setting too, the camera will also select the appropriate one for this too.
Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs!
PSBuckshot said:
Simpo Two said:
Or use your skill and judgement to take one shot at just the right time.
But I atleast would like an entry and exit of the hairpin shot.Simpo Two said:
I don't suppose the riders would be much amused either...?
They never complain about it.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vahHuNPKz0g
Wait until you see the amount of flashes at the night stages.
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