Removing Propshaft on a Griff
Discussion
T5 box and Gkn diff. Boy are the nuts tight on the diff/propshaft flange. I cant get a socket on them so can only use an open ended spanner and having soaked them in Plus Gas for a few days I still cant undo the nut. They are now showing early signs of rounding and I dont want to make it worse as I cant see how I would cut the off becuse access is very tight. Is there a knack to this or do I simply man up and try to crack them free?
Thanks
Thanks
I used an open ended spanner on the nyloc nuts (which are on the diff flange side) and a socket on the head of the bolt, but it was touch and go as to whether the nut heads would get rounded off. Rather than try to undo the nut I tried to apply the force via a socket wrench to the bolt head rather than the nut - does that make sense?
I suspect that the thread part of the bolt which protrudes through the nut is stopping you getting a ring spanner on the nuts - could it be worth sacrificing a ring spanner by grinding it down so that it will slide in between the bolt and the diff? Alternatively perhaps you could use a slightly smaller open ended spanner which forms an interference fit on the nut?
When you do eventually get them off check to see whether the smooth shank of the bolt is long enough to pass through the prop flange, speedo timing ring, and into the diff flange. My original bolts did not have sufficient smooth shank to reach the diff flange, when I removed them I found that the threaded part had worn where it is located in the diff flange.
I bought new bolts which were over length, I had to cut them down, but they had the right length shank.
It's likely that if you buy bolts from a TVR parts supplier they will not have the right length shank because they are intended for cars that do not have the speedo timing ring in that position.
Edited to add: 'spend' just said in far fewer words what I was trying to say!
I suspect that the thread part of the bolt which protrudes through the nut is stopping you getting a ring spanner on the nuts - could it be worth sacrificing a ring spanner by grinding it down so that it will slide in between the bolt and the diff? Alternatively perhaps you could use a slightly smaller open ended spanner which forms an interference fit on the nut?
When you do eventually get them off check to see whether the smooth shank of the bolt is long enough to pass through the prop flange, speedo timing ring, and into the diff flange. My original bolts did not have sufficient smooth shank to reach the diff flange, when I removed them I found that the threaded part had worn where it is located in the diff flange.
I bought new bolts which were over length, I had to cut them down, but they had the right length shank.
It's likely that if you buy bolts from a TVR parts supplier they will not have the right length shank because they are intended for cars that do not have the speedo timing ring in that position.
Edited to add: 'spend' just said in far fewer words what I was trying to say!
Edited by DarkMatter on Friday 13th January 20:38
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