New to the mini section
Discussion
Hello! Im new to this section and wondered if i could get some help? I'm hoping to get a clubman to do up in my own special way and i wondered if theres any books or sites i should go to for tips??? (other than this one of course) Cheers
>>> Edited by VODKAKID on Monday 28th June 09:41
>>> Edited by VODKAKID on Monday 28th June 09:41
Hello, good morning ans welcome.
With this site you don't need any others!!!???
Seriously, you can get all the advice and help you need on here, although some have different views form others. We always seem to get there in the end, though, and have some good ideas to pass around.
Just post any specific questions and watch the answers come flooding in.
It's good to have another Mini-Nut on here.
Peter
With this site you don't need any others!!!???
Seriously, you can get all the advice and help you need on here, although some have different views form others. We always seem to get there in the end, though, and have some good ideas to pass around.
Just post any specific questions and watch the answers come flooding in.
It's good to have another Mini-Nut on here.
Peter
Hi, most bits interchangable but front wings a lot more expensive than ordinary minis. Bumpers more expensive too, inc rear. Interior slightly more modern than the central speedo type (unless you look at all the new Retro look cars ie BMW Mini & VW Beetle!).
Clubbies becoming collectable now as opposed to the poor unloved cousin.(apparently). Clubbies easier to work on under bonnet. Get the BEST you can, an apparently easy tidy up will RAPIDLY become an EXPENSIVE rebuild. (Recent experience telling there)!
Clubbies becoming collectable now as opposed to the poor unloved cousin.(apparently). Clubbies easier to work on under bonnet. Get the BEST you can, an apparently easy tidy up will RAPIDLY become an EXPENSIVE rebuild. (Recent experience telling there)!
My other problem is once i've got the car and cleaned it up, where do you start with the mods. I had it in my head to do the engine, brakes, suspension and a nice interior but when you open the mags theres loads of nice shiney things wanting your beer tokens so where do you start????
Tony (Sagalout) is doing a Clubman and I did a fully prepared Clubman 1275GT Historic Rally car about 18 months ago, so we can both help.
The first thing to do after you get the base vehicle is to strip everything out and have a really good look at the basic shell. You'll undoubtedly find that there will be a lot of welding and panel replacement, followed by a re-paint. If you're going to do a proper restoration there is really no alternative to doing it well and the shell is where you must start.
Then you'll almost certainly need a new rear sub-frame with reconditioned radius arms, brakes, dampers, etc. That normally goes in before you start on the front.
Front sub-frames are normally OK as they get covered in oil during normal use.
I always, a bit tongue-in-cheek, say that every restoration takes twice as long to complete, and costs twice as much money, as you originally estimated. Work on that premise and you won't be disappointed. Anyone else agree with that?
Where do you live? A bit of support from Mini-people turning up to look, advise and, maybe, help with some of the work is always great. I find that a lot of Mini friends come around to my home and we discuss what needs doing both on my cars and theirs. It's always good to get others advice and discuss specific problem areas. For example, I've just found a split bulkhead on the 1990 Cooper 1275 I'm preparing for rallying. I've never realised that the front subframe mounting points onto the bulkhead were such a weak point on the later cars as I've always been involved with Mk 1 & 2's. You just keep on learning all the time with Minis.
The first thing to do after you get the base vehicle is to strip everything out and have a really good look at the basic shell. You'll undoubtedly find that there will be a lot of welding and panel replacement, followed by a re-paint. If you're going to do a proper restoration there is really no alternative to doing it well and the shell is where you must start.
Then you'll almost certainly need a new rear sub-frame with reconditioned radius arms, brakes, dampers, etc. That normally goes in before you start on the front.
Front sub-frames are normally OK as they get covered in oil during normal use.
I always, a bit tongue-in-cheek, say that every restoration takes twice as long to complete, and costs twice as much money, as you originally estimated. Work on that premise and you won't be disappointed. Anyone else agree with that?
Where do you live? A bit of support from Mini-people turning up to look, advise and, maybe, help with some of the work is always great. I find that a lot of Mini friends come around to my home and we discuss what needs doing both on my cars and theirs. It's always good to get others advice and discuss specific problem areas. For example, I've just found a split bulkhead on the 1990 Cooper 1275 I'm preparing for rallying. I've never realised that the front subframe mounting points onto the bulkhead were such a weak point on the later cars as I've always been involved with Mk 1 & 2's. You just keep on learning all the time with Minis.
hi for new panels i use www.sel-imperial.co.uk ihave found them a very good fit and not a bad price also they are next day delivery
Cooperman said:
I've just found a split bulkhead on the 1990 Cooper 1275 I'm preparing for rallying. I've never realised that the front subframe mounting points onto the bulkhead were such a weak point on the later cars as I've always been involved with Mk 1 & 2's. You just keep on learning all the time with Minis.
O/T but I've got a similar problem developing on my mini - driver's side front subframe mount has a crack developing in the bulkhead near the mount - what are you going to do to repair it? I was thinking welding a big heavy plate over it to stiffen that area up and spread the looad a bit more?
I've done both sides. I used a 16swg sheet steel doubler plate and MIG welded it on the outside of the bulkhead by seam welding and plug welding. The size of the plates I made up is 9" x 6". I put them outside as that seems better than inside. Anyway, i'm changing to solid mounts and the extra thickness at 45 degrees (i.e. on the sloping bulkhead will only move the sub-frame forward by about 0.030", and I can always tap the mounting area backwards a bit if necessary. It really is a bad bit of design, but so easy to cure.
Don't forget to weld up the crack in the bulkhead and grind it back first. In addition to seam welding around the edges of the doubler plates, I drilled lots (and I mean lots) of 5 mm holes in the doubler plate and plug welded it as well. I'll keep an eye on that area from now on.
It was something I've never encountered before due to most of my experience with bodyshells being with Mk1's & 2's, which don't have that problem.
I'll put the sub-frame back in this evening or tomorrow with its solid mounts, then build it up in-situ. It's easier that way as the assembled sub-frame is very heavy. The only bits on mine prior to installation are the top arms and cones/trumpets.
It was something I've never encountered before due to most of my experience with bodyshells being with Mk1's & 2's, which don't have that problem.
I'll put the sub-frame back in this evening or tomorrow with its solid mounts, then build it up in-situ. It's easier that way as the assembled sub-frame is very heavy. The only bits on mine prior to installation are the top arms and cones/trumpets.
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