Discussion
This is a pretty common upgrade and has few ill effects, the main danger being hitting the boost limiter or something (a fuel cut out type thing just over a bar).
You can't chip the 3.3 without piggy-backing, so the boost spring is a typical tuning mod. I'd do it, should be useful. I know ano owner of a 3.3 who has 400bhp out of it, with just boost spring, air filter and zorst. He also has kevlar bonnet, boot, spoiler, and seats...
Rgds
Domster
You can't chip the 3.3 without piggy-backing, so the boost spring is a typical tuning mod. I'd do it, should be useful. I know ano owner of a 3.3 who has 400bhp out of it, with just boost spring, air filter and zorst. He also has kevlar bonnet, boot, spoiler, and seats...
Rgds
Domster
On the weight front it is a bit porky but I knew that when I bought it, it was the turbo or a very nice 27K mile RD 964 RS. I do like the GT appeal of the Turbo although I'm sure I could shed a few pounds if I put my mind to it.
The bar spring is cheap and good for 40 Bhp which would see me just shy of 400 Bhp
Dom the T2 is mechanical injection so no chips...
My only real concern is whether 1 bar is too much without including fuel enrichment, but I guess you rarely stay on full boost for any length of time. Any body had any experience with EBC's in Porkers?
The bar spring is cheap and good for 40 Bhp which would see me just shy of 400 Bhp
Dom the T2 is mechanical injection so no chips...
My only real concern is whether 1 bar is too much without including fuel enrichment, but I guess you rarely stay on full boost for any length of time. Any body had any experience with EBC's in Porkers?
"I'm sure I could shed a few pounds if I put my mind to it."
Yeah, you'll have to go to the gym more often ;-)
Re mechanical injection, I will check what the 3.3 owner mate of mine meant - I'm sure he said it was mappable, but very complicated. Let me do more research on that. As you say, it is K-Jet not Motronic innit?
Yeah, you'll have to go to the gym more often ;-)
Re mechanical injection, I will check what the 3.3 owner mate of mine meant - I'm sure he said it was mappable, but very complicated. Let me do more research on that. As you say, it is K-Jet not Motronic innit?
Hi UV. This is straight from the horse's mouth:
"Regarding your friend's T2 tuning dilemma, as most agony uncles will tell you, each affair is different. My own experience involved what was, at the time, a FSH 25k miles T2, and all the advice I received was that the car could easily cope with 1 bar BUT not more. That was over 5 years ago. Perhaps I should spell out that this is without wiring up the cold start injector in a fancy way, or any other fuel or injector trickery. As your mate may be aware, the mechanical K-JET injection on the T2 isn't re-chippable, but I suppose a piggyback black box could be used. However, the advice I received from aforementioned experts prior to my own mods was
that the K-JET system constantly chucks buckets of fuel around anyway so no need to worry. Just use Optimax if you want to keep the knock sensors happy and maximise performance, but then again I've had my car on the rolling road where, such is its torque, that the operator couldn't get the car to drive the rollers, and several attempts had to be made by which time the intake temperature was, er, quite warm, but not even a hint of detonation could be heard at full boost and full chat. Certainly if you go all the way and rip
out K-JET to install modern fully programmable engine management then you get massive (relatively) power and torque increases on top of the 1-bar gains, BUT it costs an arm and a leg and involves MAJOR surgery. Folk such as Bob Watson and Colin Belton (930 Motorsport) would be only too pleased to help, mind you! These same folk will probably want to check out a car's general state of health when they fit a new spring over the old one (you don't replace it as such), and if he wants a good laugh then get your pal to stay and watch the
wastegate removal, listen to the undeleted expletives as the thermally superstressed studs snap, and the O-level metalwork needed to refit it all. I don't mean to sound alarming here as it's par for the course and nothing to get worked up about. They just sort it, and very routinely too as it happens all the time. Probably the biggest hiccup would be if the car is a high miler and the turbocharger is too tired and needs replacing to allow 1 bar to do its work effectively. About 75k - 90k miles is usually the critical time, so I'm told. Your pal's technicians will also know what to do
with the sensor that cuts everything at "too high" boost levels...adding a 1 bar spring makes this feature not just redundant but a total spoilsport. Oh, and finally, if he hasnt' yet installed 15W/50 Mobil 1 Motorsport fully synthetic engine oil, then a 1-bar moment would be a good time to do so; 0W/40 has been OK in my car, no smoke or leaks and merely slightly increased consumption, but these engines do like15/50 better. Hope this helps."
I have also included the spec of his car FYI:
Porsche 911 Turbo Coupe, 1991 model year, first reg. 1992, with FSH
3.3 litre flat 6, K-Jetronic injection, turbocharged, 5-speed manual G50
limited slip differential / air conditioning / leather all as standard
electric sun roof and 10-stack CD autochanger as factory fitted options
GT2-style rear wing, and bonnet, in carbon-kevlar
composite GT2-style front splitter
Porsche roof spoiler (rear screen)
Armourfend protective film to bonnet / front bumper / headlights / fogs /
rear arches
Zymol wax protection to paintwork
ZucZ PowerFlow induction kit with K&N air filter
wastegate / actuator fitted with 1 bar spring
stainless steel B&B Tri-Flo full sports exhaust and headers
Mobil 1 fully synthetic motorsport engine oil
Porsche 18-inch Turbo-4 'Technology' hollow spoke alloys
Bridgestone S 02 tyres with kevlar-based tyre sealant
RUF / Tech Art suspension
front strut brace
Momo Daytona steering wheel & Momo gear lever
OMP sports seats (front)
Gemballa alloy pedal set
Porsche overmats
computerised 4-wheel alignment
outputs better than 400 bhp and 420 lb ft (climate and fuel dependent)
Timed 0 - 60 mph in 3.9 secs with owner driving
(Full security package, of course)
Rgds
Domster
"Regarding your friend's T2 tuning dilemma, as most agony uncles will tell you, each affair is different. My own experience involved what was, at the time, a FSH 25k miles T2, and all the advice I received was that the car could easily cope with 1 bar BUT not more. That was over 5 years ago. Perhaps I should spell out that this is without wiring up the cold start injector in a fancy way, or any other fuel or injector trickery. As your mate may be aware, the mechanical K-JET injection on the T2 isn't re-chippable, but I suppose a piggyback black box could be used. However, the advice I received from aforementioned experts prior to my own mods was
that the K-JET system constantly chucks buckets of fuel around anyway so no need to worry. Just use Optimax if you want to keep the knock sensors happy and maximise performance, but then again I've had my car on the rolling road where, such is its torque, that the operator couldn't get the car to drive the rollers, and several attempts had to be made by which time the intake temperature was, er, quite warm, but not even a hint of detonation could be heard at full boost and full chat. Certainly if you go all the way and rip
out K-JET to install modern fully programmable engine management then you get massive (relatively) power and torque increases on top of the 1-bar gains, BUT it costs an arm and a leg and involves MAJOR surgery. Folk such as Bob Watson and Colin Belton (930 Motorsport) would be only too pleased to help, mind you! These same folk will probably want to check out a car's general state of health when they fit a new spring over the old one (you don't replace it as such), and if he wants a good laugh then get your pal to stay and watch the
wastegate removal, listen to the undeleted expletives as the thermally superstressed studs snap, and the O-level metalwork needed to refit it all. I don't mean to sound alarming here as it's par for the course and nothing to get worked up about. They just sort it, and very routinely too as it happens all the time. Probably the biggest hiccup would be if the car is a high miler and the turbocharger is too tired and needs replacing to allow 1 bar to do its work effectively. About 75k - 90k miles is usually the critical time, so I'm told. Your pal's technicians will also know what to do
with the sensor that cuts everything at "too high" boost levels...adding a 1 bar spring makes this feature not just redundant but a total spoilsport. Oh, and finally, if he hasnt' yet installed 15W/50 Mobil 1 Motorsport fully synthetic engine oil, then a 1-bar moment would be a good time to do so; 0W/40 has been OK in my car, no smoke or leaks and merely slightly increased consumption, but these engines do like15/50 better. Hope this helps."
I have also included the spec of his car FYI:
Porsche 911 Turbo Coupe, 1991 model year, first reg. 1992, with FSH
3.3 litre flat 6, K-Jetronic injection, turbocharged, 5-speed manual G50
limited slip differential / air conditioning / leather all as standard
electric sun roof and 10-stack CD autochanger as factory fitted options
GT2-style rear wing, and bonnet, in carbon-kevlar
composite GT2-style front splitter
Porsche roof spoiler (rear screen)
Armourfend protective film to bonnet / front bumper / headlights / fogs /
rear arches
Zymol wax protection to paintwork
ZucZ PowerFlow induction kit with K&N air filter
wastegate / actuator fitted with 1 bar spring
stainless steel B&B Tri-Flo full sports exhaust and headers
Mobil 1 fully synthetic motorsport engine oil
Porsche 18-inch Turbo-4 'Technology' hollow spoke alloys
Bridgestone S 02 tyres with kevlar-based tyre sealant
RUF / Tech Art suspension
front strut brace
Momo Daytona steering wheel & Momo gear lever
OMP sports seats (front)
Gemballa alloy pedal set
Porsche overmats
computerised 4-wheel alignment
outputs better than 400 bhp and 420 lb ft (climate and fuel dependent)
Timed 0 - 60 mph in 3.9 secs with owner driving
(Full security package, of course)
Rgds
Domster
Sorry, Thom, that's a gem! Hmmmn. I thought i'd post the question on the JZ Q&A and here is their responce
Date: 27/05/2002 - 14:25
Subject: 1 Bar boost - Reply
Author: Jonas
Email: jonas@jzmachtech.com
Message: It is perfectly safe to run a 1 bar boost spring on your car with out having to make any adjustments to the fuelling. A I bar spring cost £110.50 + vat and will take around 2 -3 hours to fit, this will also include an overhaul of the waste gate which may need some addition parts once striped. The parts that may be required are removing seized studs, gaskets or a diaphragm.
The last turbo we did had to have all the extra parts which came to a total of £360.00 + vat including the spring.
I'll get it booked in
Date: 27/05/2002 - 14:25
Subject: 1 Bar boost - Reply
Author: Jonas
Email: jonas@jzmachtech.com
Message: It is perfectly safe to run a 1 bar boost spring on your car with out having to make any adjustments to the fuelling. A I bar spring cost £110.50 + vat and will take around 2 -3 hours to fit, this will also include an overhaul of the waste gate which may need some addition parts once striped. The parts that may be required are removing seized studs, gaskets or a diaphragm.
The last turbo we did had to have all the extra parts which came to a total of £360.00 + vat including the spring.
I'll get it booked in
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