Don't you just love.....

[sagalout]

Workshop Manuals.

"Remove bolts and lift engine off gearbox (see photo of someone in a clean shirt and spotless hands".

Anyone got any Cemtex?

Cannot get the crankshaft pulley bolt out without removing engine from box.

[Cooperman1]

I always love those pictures which make it all look so easy.
Have you got the flywheel locking tool? I really used to struggle with both the front pulley and the flywheel bolts, but then I spent about £10 on the locking tool, which bolts through the starter motor hole, and suddenly it's easy.
Good luck with all this.

[jeffriesmullet]

insted of the locking tool get a bud to hold a flat blade screw driver inthere then bobs your uncle its locked

[Cooperman1]

jeffriesmullet said:

insted of the locking tool get a bud to hold a flat blade screw driver inthere then bobs your uncle its locked

Until the screw driver slips!! And, yes, it's happened to me, which is why I always use the locking tool now.

[jeffriesmullet]

ah im just thankful i got a real big screw driver that didnt slip

[sagalout]

Finally split the block from the gearbox and the box looks good. Engine kinda looks like there's been someone in there before me.

Locking tool.....followed the manual, got on my best Sunday cloths, jammed a bit of wood between crank web & block, stood on the block, adjusted the scaffold tube on the spanner (Nooooo) and then (in the words of those mice in Bagpuss) heeeaavve!
Got there.

Now to decide what I am going to replace.

The cam has a lift of around 7mm on the pushrod, opens inlet No 1 at about 5degrees before and closes about 230after TDC. Any guesses what it is? No obvious numbers or marks. (Can you tell what it is yet, Rolf?).

Bearings look ok except a BE is a bit scored. Bores are fine, should I change the rings anyway?
Clutch is Verto, plate has springs. At least 3mm of friction material on each side. Worth changing to Turbo not sprung plate I believe.