Rear Hubs/Trailing Arms Questions
Discussion
A little help please...
I have come to remove the rear hubs & trailing arms and thought I better ask about the best way to go about this.
The hubs - there appears to be a 'large nut' holding on the drum (see photo below with arrow pointing to nut), however, I don't know which 'thread' this is - clockwise or anti-clockwise & didn't want to start trying to undo it only be trying in the wrong direction. Also, how do you stop the drum/hub turning when you are trying to undo it. Finally, what size nut is it??? If the nut is the correct place to start, what else do I need to do to fully remove the hub, etc. from the diff???
Trailing Arms - how do I get to the nut/bolts that hold the trailing arms?? Access seems to be virtually impossible for either a socket or an open ended spanner - please see on photo below as per arrow...
All help will be greatfully received and much appreciated.
Many thanks
Cheers
Jaye
I have come to remove the rear hubs & trailing arms and thought I better ask about the best way to go about this.
The hubs - there appears to be a 'large nut' holding on the drum (see photo below with arrow pointing to nut), however, I don't know which 'thread' this is - clockwise or anti-clockwise & didn't want to start trying to undo it only be trying in the wrong direction. Also, how do you stop the drum/hub turning when you are trying to undo it. Finally, what size nut is it??? If the nut is the correct place to start, what else do I need to do to fully remove the hub, etc. from the diff???
Trailing Arms - how do I get to the nut/bolts that hold the trailing arms?? Access seems to be virtually impossible for either a socket or an open ended spanner - please see on photo below as per arrow...
All help will be greatfully received and much appreciated.
Many thanks
Cheers
Jaye
tvrgit wrote some very helpful stuff about this http://www.tvrgit.com/swingarmpage.html
You hold it still by putting the spare wheel on, putting it on the ground and using the brakes to hold it. It's done up to FT and could be left or right handed, (my v8 has one of each, but I think some cars have right handed threads both sides) but there should be enough thread sticking out to tell by looking at it.
You hold it still by putting the spare wheel on, putting it on the ground and using the brakes to hold it. It's done up to FT and could be left or right handed, (my v8 has one of each, but I think some cars have right handed threads both sides) but there should be enough thread sticking out to tell by looking at it.
Hi
As far as I remember the nut is conventional ie anti clockwise to undo. Most folk put the spare wheel on and chock it to stop the hub spinning. Nut is extremely tight.
The trailing arm bolts are accesible just. I managed a socket on the bolt head after first cleaning off all the crud and jammed an open ender (different size I recall) on the nut. I was lucky as my bolts had been copa-slipped in the past. Some folk have to cut them out. Good Luck. Andy
As far as I remember the nut is conventional ie anti clockwise to undo. Most folk put the spare wheel on and chock it to stop the hub spinning. Nut is extremely tight.
The trailing arm bolts are accesible just. I managed a socket on the bolt head after first cleaning off all the crud and jammed an open ender (different size I recall) on the nut. I was lucky as my bolts had been copa-slipped in the past. Some folk have to cut them out. Good Luck. Andy
The drum is held on by the wheel nothing else but dont remove it as the hub nut is tightened up to between 230 and 250 ft/lb. As others have said use the space saver as the hole in the centre is large enough to allow the 41mm socket through!! The last one I undid required a 6 foot length of tube on the breaker bar to get sufficient pressure. (Dont forget when you do then up you will need a torque wrech of sufficient capacity to return to the correct settings - I think Barkychoc has one).
The nuts are normally handed and as has been said you should have sufficient thread visable to identify which way to unscrew but (if memry serves) i think clockwise on the near side and anti on the offside.
Once the nut is removed then you should be able to slide the hub off the end of thedrive ouput shaft - but wait a moment!!! There are torx bolts holding the drive shaft to the diff and to the driver bit output shaft wot goes into the hub. Leaving the brakes intact until all those have been lossened is a good idea, its a T40 torx and you might find that the end will twist off - got through three the last time i did it. Once all that is done slide the hub off the driven bit etc. The brake back plate is retained by four bolts through the hub carrier to the trailing arms. There is a possibility that there are shims between back plate and arm
HTH
The nuts are normally handed and as has been said you should have sufficient thread visable to identify which way to unscrew but (if memry serves) i think clockwise on the near side and anti on the offside.
Once the nut is removed then you should be able to slide the hub off the end of the
HTH
Edited by Gerald-TVR on Wednesday 9th November 18:00
Jaye R said:
Norm
Many thanks for the 'thread' tips - now to borrow a socket from my friendly neighbourhood garage (taking the freelander for it's MOT tomorrow so ideal timing
)
Cheers
Jaye
Draper 41mm hub nut sockets are only a few quid on ebay.Many thanks for the 'thread' tips - now to borrow a socket from my friendly neighbourhood garage (taking the freelander for it's MOT tomorrow so ideal timing
)Cheers
Jaye
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_tr...
Ceejay73 said:
Jaye, if cables are still attached it should be relatively quick/easy to refit handbrake to chassis and apply that. Unless of course your lever is still laying in the floor of the tub, which I suspect it could easily be lol.
HTH,
Ceejay73
Carl HTH,
Ceejay73
You are indeed correct - the lever is still in the floor of the tub & as you will be aware it ain't a good idea to open the doors
Chris - thanks for the link.
Having spoken to my local garage, he has kindly offered to remove & re-fit the hub nuts for me - all I need to do is remove the whole hub/drum with the trailing arm & take them down to his garage & he will do it there for me
Cheers
Jaye
Barkychoc said:
Are you also having new trailing arm bushes?
If so get the arms shot blasted and powder coated - worth it to stop the tin worm.
Mine came back looking like new.
ChrisIf so get the arms shot blasted and powder coated - worth it to stop the tin worm.
Mine came back looking like new.
Yep - that's the plan - in fact it's a full body off project so the whole chassis is being shot-blasted, welded/fixed where required (front corner of outriggers, etc.) and then powder-coated. Then 'all' I have to do is re-build the car
New bits list (so far) includes new ali radiator (wish list as old one is fine), new brake pipes (as had to cut old ones to get them off!!!), new poly bushes for front & rear suspension
Cheers
Jaye
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