Whats in a chain?
Discussion
Had the first chain failure that I can remember while out last night, luckily only a few miles from home, and it was quite ludicrously mild out ....
The chain is the original from the bike, so is well over 4 years old. So rather than fix, figure I'm better off getting a new.
The bike is a Trek FX 7.3 Hybrid, running an 8 speed rear. Are there any differences/obvious benefits in getting a considerably more expensive chain over a cheaper variant?
The chain is the original from the bike, so is well over 4 years old. So rather than fix, figure I'm better off getting a new.
The bike is a Trek FX 7.3 Hybrid, running an 8 speed rear. Are there any differences/obvious benefits in getting a considerably more expensive chain over a cheaper variant?
Varied use over the years, but I'd hazard a guess at around 2-3 thousands miles.
Prior to the chain snapping I did have a look over the rear mech (and have given it a few very thorough cleans in the last few months, and have given it an inspection each time), and it looks in pretty good condition. I've just never given the chain a close inspection, but then this is my first chain breakage.
Prior to the chain snapping I did have a look over the rear mech (and have given it a few very thorough cleans in the last few months, and have given it an inspection each time), and it looks in pretty good condition. I've just never given the chain a close inspection, but then this is my first chain breakage.
Fluffsri said:
As said I would inspect the cassette and the chainrings. With that amount of mileage and just replacing the chain you may find a lot of chain suck from the front.
I'll give it another inspection (and thorough clean) prior to any replacements, but as of August it appeared to be in pretty good condition, although I probably wasn't giving it a sufficiently close inspection.Should be ok with 3000 miles use just to replace the chain, but clean the cassette thoroughly and check it closely for uneven gaps between the teeth. If appears ok then install the new chain but if you get any skipping on the rear cassette after installing then check to see how the chain is sitting on all the rear cogs one by one and if there are any gaps or irregularities then replace the cassette too.
KMC chains are really good! i got one of these from my LBS http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
they get good reviews and are dead easy to fit with the magic link.
they get good reviews and are dead easy to fit with the magic link.
metalsteve said:
KMC chains are really good! i got one of these from my LBS http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...
they get good reviews and are dead easy to fit with the magic link.
I'll second this. My bike came with a KMC chain. I stick a chain guage on once in a while and it's pretty much at the end of it's life now but it's done nearly 3000 miles this year. For the first 1000 or so miles it had poor maintenance as well. I do the majority of my riding in sand and was using a normal wet lube so the chain was coated in grinding paste most of the time. It gets a lot more TLC now but I'm still impressed by it's robustness.they get good reviews and are dead easy to fit with the magic link.
I replaced my chain, rear derailleur, chainrings and cranks (old set were non-replaceable) and cassette for all of about £60-70 on my commuter hybrid recently.
All decent quality KMC and Shimano stuff for some ridiculously cheap prices from The Wooly Hat Shop on eBay. Cheaper than my bike mechanic could buy them at 'trade' prices.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Woolly-Hat-Shop
All decent quality KMC and Shimano stuff for some ridiculously cheap prices from The Wooly Hat Shop on eBay. Cheaper than my bike mechanic could buy them at 'trade' prices.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Woolly-Hat-Shop
When you have bought and fitted the new chain you will find out soon enough if you need to replace the cassette too.
If you have done 2-3k and only used 2-3 of the cogs at the back for the majority of it, I wouldn't be surprised.
If it keeps jumping out of gear for no reason = new cassette time.
Might be worth buying one of those chain-length checkers so you can replace the chain more often but the cassette less often...
If you have done 2-3k and only used 2-3 of the cogs at the back for the majority of it, I wouldn't be surprised.
If it keeps jumping out of gear for no reason = new cassette time.
Might be worth buying one of those chain-length checkers so you can replace the chain more often but the cassette less often...
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