One quick question about rear subframe.
Discussion
Jay,
That is often the best way to do it, especially if you are doing it on your own.
Usually I drop it down with everything on it, then fit the new subframe in 'bare' condition, then fit it up piece-by-piece.
Don't forget to paint the new one with at least 2 coats of Hammerite before fitting it in, then Waxoyl thoroughly once it's assembled. Then check the rear toe-in (1/8" to 3/16") and the camber (0 deg to -0.5 deg.).
Check for rust on the left-hand damper top mounting whilst the tank is moved out of the way.
It's not a bad job really, people make a bit of a fuss about it, but so long as the bolts at the forward sub-frame mountings don't shear off, it's OK. If they do shear off, contact me and I'll tell you how to get the stubs out, or how to repair the thing if they really are too rusted in.
I hope this helps.
Peter
That is often the best way to do it, especially if you are doing it on your own.
Usually I drop it down with everything on it, then fit the new subframe in 'bare' condition, then fit it up piece-by-piece.
Don't forget to paint the new one with at least 2 coats of Hammerite before fitting it in, then Waxoyl thoroughly once it's assembled. Then check the rear toe-in (1/8" to 3/16") and the camber (0 deg to -0.5 deg.).
Check for rust on the left-hand damper top mounting whilst the tank is moved out of the way.
It's not a bad job really, people make a bit of a fuss about it, but so long as the bolts at the forward sub-frame mountings don't shear off, it's OK. If they do shear off, contact me and I'll tell you how to get the stubs out, or how to repair the thing if they really are too rusted in.
I hope this helps.
Peter
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