Discussion
Some you can PP the effect to some extent if you shoot with it in mind.
The most complex one is the Polariser (circular for digital) removes polarised light.
This has a lot of effects, from removing a portion of the entire light (1-2 stops) to cutting glare of foliage, reflections off glass/water, and atmospheric glare off dust. Its a landscapers must have. Also very handy to use for car pics.
Its variable in nature, you rotate it so as to pick what (reflected) light is cut out, works best with the sun to your right/left (if its for landscapes). Can create uneven skies on wide angles as the polarisation effect is uneven across such an angle.
Sometimes companies like fader and singh-ray combine two polarisers for a variable ND effect, sing ray is quality(read expensive) and combines them with other effects (warm up colour change etc).
Neutral density filters (ND) just cut down the amount of light through the lens. This allows you to shoot with longer shutter speeds for things like silky water effects. Also allows you to use fast lenses outside with flash without hitting the flash synch speed limit. Come in 1,2,3 9 or 10 stops typically. You can combine them, effects are multiplied not added (2 and 3 = 6 not 5).
Remember 3 stops is a fair bit! 7/8th of the light is cut out.
10 stops is huge amount allowing you to shoot for minutes in daylight.
ND grads - these are part clear part ND filter, come in soft and hard ( edge between the two sides) and are longer than they are wide so you can adjust where the gradient comes into affect.Again 1,2,3 stops. Mostly used for landscapes for reducing the sky/clouds so they arnt blown out whist exposing the ground correctly.
Techniques like HDR and exposure blending can work round the need for these but I prefer using them when I can.
Reverse ND grad. This has the lower half clear then say 3 stop grad reducing to nothing at the top. Sunrise/sunset/seascape special.
Theres a bunch of others, warmup filters, star effects etc. They all get a bit specialised from here.
The most complex one is the Polariser (circular for digital) removes polarised light.
This has a lot of effects, from removing a portion of the entire light (1-2 stops) to cutting glare of foliage, reflections off glass/water, and atmospheric glare off dust. Its a landscapers must have. Also very handy to use for car pics.
Its variable in nature, you rotate it so as to pick what (reflected) light is cut out, works best with the sun to your right/left (if its for landscapes). Can create uneven skies on wide angles as the polarisation effect is uneven across such an angle.
Sometimes companies like fader and singh-ray combine two polarisers for a variable ND effect, sing ray is quality(read expensive) and combines them with other effects (warm up colour change etc).
Neutral density filters (ND) just cut down the amount of light through the lens. This allows you to shoot with longer shutter speeds for things like silky water effects. Also allows you to use fast lenses outside with flash without hitting the flash synch speed limit. Come in 1,2,3 9 or 10 stops typically. You can combine them, effects are multiplied not added (2 and 3 = 6 not 5).
Remember 3 stops is a fair bit! 7/8th of the light is cut out.
10 stops is huge amount allowing you to shoot for minutes in daylight.
ND grads - these are part clear part ND filter, come in soft and hard ( edge between the two sides) and are longer than they are wide so you can adjust where the gradient comes into affect.Again 1,2,3 stops. Mostly used for landscapes for reducing the sky/clouds so they arnt blown out whist exposing the ground correctly.
Techniques like HDR and exposure blending can work round the need for these but I prefer using them when I can.
Reverse ND grad. This has the lower half clear then say 3 stop grad reducing to nothing at the top. Sunrise/sunset/seascape special.
Theres a bunch of others, warmup filters, star effects etc. They all get a bit specialised from here.
RobDickinson said:
Some you can PP the effect to some extent if you shoot with it in mind.
The most complex one is the Polariser (circular for digital) removes polarised light.
This has a lot of effects, from removing a portion of the entire light (1-2 stops) to cutting glare of foliage, reflections off glass/water, and atmospheric glare off dust. Its a landscapers must have. Also very handy to use for car pics.
Its variable in nature, you rotate it so as to pick what (reflected) light is cut out, works best with the sun to your right/left (if its for landscapes). Can create uneven skies on wide angles as the polarisation effect is uneven across such an angle.
Sometimes companies like fader and singh-ray combine two polarisers for a variable ND effect, sing ray is quality(read expensive) and combines them with other effects (warm up colour change etc).
Neutral density filters (ND) just cut down the amount of light through the lens. This allows you to shoot with longer shutter speeds for things like silky water effects. Also allows you to use fast lenses outside with flash without hitting the flash synch speed limit. Come in 1,2,3 9 or 10 stops typically. You can combine them, effects are multiplied not added (2 and 3 = 6 not 5).
Remember 3 stops is a fair bit! 7/8th of the light is cut out.
10 stops is huge amount allowing you to shoot for minutes in daylight.
ND grads - these are part clear part ND filter, come in soft and hard ( edge between the two sides) and are longer than they are wide so you can adjust where the gradient comes into affect.Again 1,2,3 stops. Mostly used for landscapes for reducing the sky/clouds so they arnt blown out whist exposing the ground correctly.
Techniques like HDR and exposure blending can work round the need for these but I prefer using them when I can.
Reverse ND grad. This has the lower half clear then say 3 stop grad reducing to nothing at the top. Sunrise/sunset/seascape special.
Theres a bunch of others, warmup filters, star effects etc. They all get a bit specialised from here.
Not much else to add to this, the only filters I have now are the circular Polariser and a Hoya HD clear on the most expensive glass to protect it.The most complex one is the Polariser (circular for digital) removes polarised light.
This has a lot of effects, from removing a portion of the entire light (1-2 stops) to cutting glare of foliage, reflections off glass/water, and atmospheric glare off dust. Its a landscapers must have. Also very handy to use for car pics.
Its variable in nature, you rotate it so as to pick what (reflected) light is cut out, works best with the sun to your right/left (if its for landscapes). Can create uneven skies on wide angles as the polarisation effect is uneven across such an angle.
Sometimes companies like fader and singh-ray combine two polarisers for a variable ND effect, sing ray is quality(read expensive) and combines them with other effects (warm up colour change etc).
Neutral density filters (ND) just cut down the amount of light through the lens. This allows you to shoot with longer shutter speeds for things like silky water effects. Also allows you to use fast lenses outside with flash without hitting the flash synch speed limit. Come in 1,2,3 9 or 10 stops typically. You can combine them, effects are multiplied not added (2 and 3 = 6 not 5).
Remember 3 stops is a fair bit! 7/8th of the light is cut out.
10 stops is huge amount allowing you to shoot for minutes in daylight.
ND grads - these are part clear part ND filter, come in soft and hard ( edge between the two sides) and are longer than they are wide so you can adjust where the gradient comes into affect.Again 1,2,3 stops. Mostly used for landscapes for reducing the sky/clouds so they arnt blown out whist exposing the ground correctly.
Techniques like HDR and exposure blending can work round the need for these but I prefer using them when I can.
Reverse ND grad. This has the lower half clear then say 3 stop grad reducing to nothing at the top. Sunrise/sunset/seascape special.
Theres a bunch of others, warmup filters, star effects etc. They all get a bit specialised from here.
Most other stuff I will now do PP.
RobDickinson said:
Some you can PP the effect to some extent if you shoot with it in mind.
The most complex one is the Polariser (circular for digital) removes polarised light.
This has a lot of effects, from removing a portion of the entire light (1-2 stops) to cutting glare of foliage, reflections off glass/water, and atmospheric glare off dust. Its a landscapers must have. Also very handy to use for car pics.
Its variable in nature, you rotate it so as to pick what (reflected) light is cut out, works best with the sun to your right/left (if its for landscapes). Can create uneven skies on wide angles as the polarisation effect is uneven across such an angle.
Sometimes companies like fader and singh-ray combine two polarisers for a variable ND effect, sing ray is quality(read expensive) and combines them with other effects (warm up colour change etc).
Neutral density filters (ND) just cut down the amount of light through the lens. This allows you to shoot with longer shutter speeds for things like silky water effects. Also allows you to use fast lenses outside with flash without hitting the flash synch speed limit. Come in 1,2,3 9 or 10 stops typically. You can combine them, effects are multiplied not added (2 and 3 = 6 not 5).
Remember 3 stops is a fair bit! 7/8th of the light is cut out.
10 stops is huge amount allowing you to shoot for minutes in daylight.
ND grads - these are part clear part ND filter, come in soft and hard ( edge between the two sides) and are longer than they are wide so you can adjust where the gradient comes into affect.Again 1,2,3 stops. Mostly used for landscapes for reducing the sky/clouds so they arnt blown out whist exposing the ground correctly.
Techniques like HDR and exposure blending can work round the need for these but I prefer using them when I can.
Reverse ND grad. This has the lower half clear then say 3 stop grad reducing to nothing at the top. Sunrise/sunset/seascape special.
Theres a bunch of others, warmup filters, star effects etc. They all get a bit specialised from here.
I tell you what, I think I just brushed up on my camera knowledge too and I own most of them filters! The most complex one is the Polariser (circular for digital) removes polarised light.
This has a lot of effects, from removing a portion of the entire light (1-2 stops) to cutting glare of foliage, reflections off glass/water, and atmospheric glare off dust. Its a landscapers must have. Also very handy to use for car pics.
Its variable in nature, you rotate it so as to pick what (reflected) light is cut out, works best with the sun to your right/left (if its for landscapes). Can create uneven skies on wide angles as the polarisation effect is uneven across such an angle.
Sometimes companies like fader and singh-ray combine two polarisers for a variable ND effect, sing ray is quality(read expensive) and combines them with other effects (warm up colour change etc).
Neutral density filters (ND) just cut down the amount of light through the lens. This allows you to shoot with longer shutter speeds for things like silky water effects. Also allows you to use fast lenses outside with flash without hitting the flash synch speed limit. Come in 1,2,3 9 or 10 stops typically. You can combine them, effects are multiplied not added (2 and 3 = 6 not 5).
Remember 3 stops is a fair bit! 7/8th of the light is cut out.
10 stops is huge amount allowing you to shoot for minutes in daylight.
ND grads - these are part clear part ND filter, come in soft and hard ( edge between the two sides) and are longer than they are wide so you can adjust where the gradient comes into affect.Again 1,2,3 stops. Mostly used for landscapes for reducing the sky/clouds so they arnt blown out whist exposing the ground correctly.
Techniques like HDR and exposure blending can work round the need for these but I prefer using them when I can.
Reverse ND grad. This has the lower half clear then say 3 stop grad reducing to nothing at the top. Sunrise/sunset/seascape special.
Theres a bunch of others, warmup filters, star effects etc. They all get a bit specialised from here.
A word of caution, buy the very best filters you can afford, you'll only end up upgrading down the line.
I started off with Hitech p series, then Cokin Z Pro, now Lee.
My filter lineup for landscapes if it helps anyone;
1,2 and 3 stop Lee soft grads
3 stop ND solid
3 stop Hitech reverse grad
Lee sky blue 3 grad
Lee square circular polariser
Lee 105mm circular polariser
I was going to get rid of the square cpl when I got the 105mm but it is quite quick to drop in to the filter holder when all I need is a cpl so I'm going to hang on to it. The 105mm is more useful when shooting cars as with the tandem adaptor you can use the cpl in addition to an ND grad, the cpl brings the reflections out of the windows and the grad pulls back the skies.
Also when using a cpl sometimes its most effective setting is too much, I go back a few degrees.
I started off with Hitech p series, then Cokin Z Pro, now Lee.
My filter lineup for landscapes if it helps anyone;
1,2 and 3 stop Lee soft grads
3 stop ND solid
3 stop Hitech reverse grad
Lee sky blue 3 grad
Lee square circular polariser
Lee 105mm circular polariser
I was going to get rid of the square cpl when I got the 105mm but it is quite quick to drop in to the filter holder when all I need is a cpl so I'm going to hang on to it. The 105mm is more useful when shooting cars as with the tandem adaptor you can use the cpl in addition to an ND grad, the cpl brings the reflections out of the windows and the grad pulls back the skies.
Also when using a cpl sometimes its most effective setting is too much, I go back a few degrees.
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