What's a decent mountain bike spec?
Discussion
Just had a Scott full suspension stolen over the weekend and starting to look for a replacement. I'm not sure what sort of value the insurance company will put on it but I would probably add a bit to it to get into the price range for a decent spec.
I have lost touch with the whole MB scene so what would a decent spec be these days? Are there any must have/stay away components. Old bike had 'V' brakes and Shimano Acera gear set which I like but I guess there are better bits around now.
Any suggestions?
I have lost touch with the whole MB scene so what would a decent spec be these days? Are there any must have/stay away components. Old bike had 'V' brakes and Shimano Acera gear set which I like but I guess there are better bits around now.
Any suggestions?
all based on value really. quality hard tails start around £800, quality full sussers are now around £1400 bar rhe likes of decathalon and boardman who are under cutting a few bigger brands and still delivering a quality bike.
shimano slx is probably drive train benchmark, hard wearing and reliable. anything below that is going to have reliability issues when the going gets heavy.
fork wise, all depends on bike and intended useage as well as rider style. cheap coils are nasty and unresponsive, cheap air shocks leak. high end coils are nice and reliable, quality air shocks are light and comfy...
the rest is personal preference. mavic 717 rims are probably a good starting point. none of this is cheap mind, but it does pay to start off with a few expensive bits on a quality frame.
personally i would go for a high end hard tail like a stumpjumper unless you really think you are going north of >£1500
shimano slx is probably drive train benchmark, hard wearing and reliable. anything below that is going to have reliability issues when the going gets heavy.
fork wise, all depends on bike and intended useage as well as rider style. cheap coils are nasty and unresponsive, cheap air shocks leak. high end coils are nice and reliable, quality air shocks are light and comfy...
the rest is personal preference. mavic 717 rims are probably a good starting point. none of this is cheap mind, but it does pay to start off with a few expensive bits on a quality frame.
personally i would go for a high end hard tail like a stumpjumper unless you really think you are going north of >£1500
If you've lost touch with the mtb scene, do you really want/need a mountain bike?
If it is just to ride around town on get a hybrid or road bike. My local bike shop has moved towards road bikes in recent times as more and more peopel are getting bikes to use on the road and mountain bike are becoming less fashionable.
If you do want a mountain bike, then what sort of mountain biking are you planning to do on it?
I have a hardtail and a full suspension as they fulfill different roles.
I also have a cyclocross bike as a does-it-all commuter and road bike.
If it is just to ride around town on get a hybrid or road bike. My local bike shop has moved towards road bikes in recent times as more and more peopel are getting bikes to use on the road and mountain bike are becoming less fashionable.
If you do want a mountain bike, then what sort of mountain biking are you planning to do on it?
I have a hardtail and a full suspension as they fulfill different roles.
I also have a cyclocross bike as a does-it-all commuter and road bike.
get on ebay an get a second hand bike if you just want to dabble now & again. Earlier this evening I picked up a bike for £80 on ebay that is made up of over £500 worth of components. That or try looking at eg Winstanleys bike shop as they often have bikes that are brand new but 2 or 3 years old spec.
dave
dave
Acera was never good in the groupset scheme of things - see
http://mc2.vicnet.net.au/home/vichpv/web/building/...
as others have said you are probably better going for a good value hardtail, be it an older model sold new via the usual suspects or second hand.
http://mc2.vicnet.net.au/home/vichpv/web/building/...
as others have said you are probably better going for a good value hardtail, be it an older model sold new via the usual suspects or second hand.
MC Bodge said:
If you've lost touch with the mtb scene, do you really want/need a mountain bike?
If it is just to ride around town on get a hybrid or road bike. My local bike shop has moved towards road bikes in recent times as more and more peopel are getting bikes to use on the road and mountain bike are becoming less fashionable.
If you do want a mountain bike, then what sort of mountain biking are you planning to do on it?
I have a hardtail and a full suspension as they fulfill different roles.
I also have a cyclocross bike as a does-it-all commuter and road bike.
It's a good point that you raise, recently most of my riding has been road/track based with the suspension locked off and I changed the tyres for more road biased ones. I am thinking of moving to something like the Specailized Crosstrail pro however I do kid myself I will return to the forests sometime. I was more interested in current thinking on individual components like the gear sets etc. When I bought the Scott the components on it were more or less the in thing at the price range but I know things move on. In Halfords last night I was amazed to find that there are nine levels of Shimano gears from the altus up to X9.If it is just to ride around town on get a hybrid or road bike. My local bike shop has moved towards road bikes in recent times as more and more peopel are getting bikes to use on the road and mountain bike are becoming less fashionable.
If you do want a mountain bike, then what sort of mountain biking are you planning to do on it?
I have a hardtail and a full suspension as they fulfill different roles.
I also have a cyclocross bike as a does-it-all commuter and road bike.
On a different note I was impressed with the Boardman range of bikes, seem to be well specced for the price, too good to be true?
Ebo100 said:
It's a good point that you raise, recently most of my riding has been road/track based with the suspension locked off and I changed the tyres for more road biased ones. I am thinking of moving to something like the Specailized Crosstrail pro however I do kid myself I will return to the forests sometime. I was more interested in current thinking on individual components like the gear sets etc. When I bought the Scott the components on it were more or less the in thing at the price range but I know things move on. In Halfords last night I was amazed to find that there are nine levels of Shimano gears from the altus up to X9.
On a different note I was impressed with the Boardman range of bikes, seem to be well specced for the price, too good to be true?
the boardman bikes are great, they use the same frames as brands like univega and merida but sadly they are let down by some halfords employees who shouldnt be allowed near their shoelaces never mind a spanner.On a different note I was impressed with the Boardman range of bikes, seem to be well specced for the price, too good to be true?
order it online, buy it boxed, take it home, bolt it together yourself - you dont need any special tools or mechanical knowledge - and dont ever return to the store. simples.
MusicTerrorist said:
Whatever you get, make sure it has Hydro brakes - the bee's knee's they are!
Not necessarily true.My mtbs have hydraulic disc brakes, but if I was getting a cx/hybrid with discs I'd get cable discs.
Hydraulics are good when they work, but do need looking after (sticking pistons and bleeding/changing fluid)
Well thanks for the replies chaps, I finally settled on a Cannondale Bad boy Fatty 
(just love the name)
http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p40427/Cannondale-Bad-Bo...
Was a bit of a toss up between the Specialized Crosstrail http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p38375/Specialized-Cross...
The Cannondale is abit more road biased to what I have bought previously and looking at the specs the Specialized had the hydraulic discs and SLX components previously recommended with some lockable front forks to give a proper all rounder. But when I sat back and looked at the riding/commuting I do I felt the road bias was better for me and wow am I impressed. I've only been out for a quick 5 mile run but it seems much comfier and already I can see how much quicker I am at covering the ground. I caught and passed another rider who I know is much fitter than me but was riding a mountain bike on road tyres, so I can see how more efficient the Cannondale is on the road; I should be able to take minutes off my commute to work.
The only down side I can see is the fact the bike has come with some impressive looking slick tyres that might cause a traction problem on those wet rides to work and back, does anyone have experience of the slicks in less than perfect roads conditions, should I change them for some treaded tyres or will I find levels of grip that would make Jenson Button envious?
(just love the name)http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p40427/Cannondale-Bad-Bo...
Was a bit of a toss up between the Specialized Crosstrail http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p38375/Specialized-Cross...
The Cannondale is abit more road biased to what I have bought previously and looking at the specs the Specialized had the hydraulic discs and SLX components previously recommended with some lockable front forks to give a proper all rounder. But when I sat back and looked at the riding/commuting I do I felt the road bias was better for me and wow am I impressed. I've only been out for a quick 5 mile run but it seems much comfier and already I can see how much quicker I am at covering the ground. I caught and passed another rider who I know is much fitter than me but was riding a mountain bike on road tyres, so I can see how more efficient the Cannondale is on the road; I should be able to take minutes off my commute to work.
The only down side I can see is the fact the bike has come with some impressive looking slick tyres that might cause a traction problem on those wet rides to work and back, does anyone have experience of the slicks in less than perfect roads conditions, should I change them for some treaded tyres or will I find levels of grip that would make Jenson Button envious?
pablo said:
all based on value really. quality hard tails start around £800, quality full sussers are now around £1400 bar rhe likes of decathalon and boardman who are under cutting a few bigger brands and still delivering a quality bike.
shimano slx is probably drive train benchmark, hard wearing and reliable. anything below that is going to have reliability issues when the going gets heavy.
fork wise, all depends on bike and intended useage as well as rider style. cheap coils are nasty and unresponsive, cheap air shocks leak. high end coils are nice and reliable, quality air shocks are light and comfy...
the rest is personal preference. mavic 717 rims are probably a good starting point. none of this is cheap mind, but it does pay to start off with a few expensive bits on a quality frame.
personally i would go for a high end hard tail like a stumpjumper unless you really think you are going north of >£1500
Nothing wrong with Deore level stuff on a trail bike IMHO. In fact other than the bling factor, i'm starting to think anything above that level isn't worth it. shimano slx is probably drive train benchmark, hard wearing and reliable. anything below that is going to have reliability issues when the going gets heavy.
fork wise, all depends on bike and intended useage as well as rider style. cheap coils are nasty and unresponsive, cheap air shocks leak. high end coils are nice and reliable, quality air shocks are light and comfy...
the rest is personal preference. mavic 717 rims are probably a good starting point. none of this is cheap mind, but it does pay to start off with a few expensive bits on a quality frame.
personally i would go for a high end hard tail like a stumpjumper unless you really think you are going north of >£1500
Weight savings are marginal compared to the extra cost, and really the quality seems pretty damn close to identical. I've gone from X0 and X9 to X5 and X7 and everything seems just as good. More reliable in fact.
budgie smuggler said:
Nothing wrong with Deore level stuff on a trail bike IMHO. In fact other than the bling factor, i'm starting to think anything above that level isn't worth it.
Weight savings are marginal compared to the extra cost, and really the quality seems pretty damn close to identical. I've gone from X0 and X9 to X5 and X7 and everything seems just as good. More reliable in fact.
Much the same conclusion I came to, a move up to the SLX spec was another £200 which was hard to justify when the Deore gear works pretty good. I think I got a very good mid spec bike but I am not anywhere near a top class rider and would probably never tell the difference.Weight savings are marginal compared to the extra cost, and really the quality seems pretty damn close to identical. I've gone from X0 and X9 to X5 and X7 and everything seems just as good. More reliable in fact.
budgie smuggler said:
Nothing wrong with Deore level stuff on a trail bike IMHO. In fact other than the bling factor, i'm starting to think anything above that level isn't worth it.
Weight savings are marginal compared to the extra cost, and really the quality seems pretty damn close to identical. I've gone from X0 and X9 to X5 and X7 and everything seems just as good. More reliable in fact.
front mechs are a bit odd because they dont actually have to do that much, the range of movement and the difference between mid-range and top level is not as much s rear mechs for example. in fact i'm running a deore front mech at the moment...Weight savings are marginal compared to the extra cost, and really the quality seems pretty damn close to identical. I've gone from X0 and X9 to X5 and X7 and everything seems just as good. More reliable in fact.
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