rear wheel studs help required

[PYNEY]

hi all

i have just bought 8 new rear wheel studs as the threads are starting to get cross threaded
the size i have is m12 x 1.5 with a 13.1 mm spline , standard ford i think

i've tried to fit one today ! the old one came out with a bit of tapping with a hammer
but i thought the new one would just go in nice and easy "wrong" its a very tight fit and without taking the hub plate thing off and possibly using a vice to pull the new studs through is there an easier way ?

so has anyone fitted these before and have you any tips on the best way to fit them

cheers keith

[mep12345]

Use an old socket that fits over the stud and an old wheel nut and then tighten the thing in. It will crush the slines and is designed to do that. It takes a lot of force. Tou will damage the wheel nut and the socket but it shoul;dn't damage the stud as this is harder material.

Once as tight as you can get it put the wheels on and go for a short drive then jack the car up again and give them another nip to ensure they are tight and re-torque the wheels

Mark

[phillpot]

Changed my front ones a little while ago and yes, they were very tight.

No way would they pull in using a wheel nut and washers, felt like I would strip the thread in the nut or worse on the stud.

Tried using a deep socket and a big G clamp, that didn't work.

In the end I resorted to grinding the splines on them down a little (sounds bad but isn't a safety issue,after all they're only there to stop the stud turning as you tighten the nut),then helping them in with a short drift and a big hammer!

But I guess there's no way to get a good hit on the back ones with the brakes in the way?

Hub off and using a proper press I suspect they'd go in no bother, want to borrow the big socket?

[PYNEY]

thanks for the help guys and the "use of a socket"

this seems a barsteward job without the correct tools and one that could cause damage if its that hard to pull up with an old nut and socket etc
i did file down the spline a bit as you said but by the time i filed it down enough to get it in it was to slack lol

i'll wait and see if anyone else has any ideas if not my tvr mechanic will have to do it

[greymrj]

Got to agree with Mark. I've never changed studs on my S but I have on other vehicles (some of which were rally cars) including Ford and the use of a socket and nut (flat face against the socket!) has worked. The pressure you generate this way is considerable. If they wont go in this way then it has got to be impact from the back or preferably a hydraulic press! Incidentally, no way would I file down the splines, it isnt just a question of stopping the stud turning: with constant braking and accelerating the stud has to be very firmly located in the hole or it will start to 'fret' and then your hub has had it!

[GreenV8S]

greymrj said:

Incidentally, no way would I file down the splines, it isnt just a question of stopping the stud turning: with constant braking and accelerating the stud has to be very firmly located in the hole or it will start to 'fret' and then your hub has had it!

I agree - filing the splines down sounds distinctly dodgy to me. There's a good reason they're that tight in the hole.

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi,
Best bet is to take the hubs off and press them in, they have to be in and seated fully.

Alan

[tozerman]

when I did mine I made up a gadget using an old socket and an old wheel nut (the type with the seast that turns !) I then used an impact driver (good old Machine Mart) to pull them through, without the impact wrench it would have been a nightmare, but it was a very easy job with, if you want to borrow my "tool" then pm me with your address and I'll send it to you, good luck

Cheers.....Tony..

[PYNEY]

tozerman ! thats a very kind offer thankyou

at the monent my tvr mechanic has a press that will do the job all i have to do is take the hub plates off
easier said than done and pop them to him to fit so i'll see how that goes

cheers keith

[tozerman]

No worries Keith, one thing I would be worried about is taking the hubs off will disturb the wheel bearings, you may even end up with the bearing race separating with part of it left behind on the stub, be carefull and good luck.

Cheers.....Tony..

[cnprior]

Hello,

I replaced two a month or so back.

I took the wheel and drum off.

Then hammered the damaged ones so that they came out....then got the new stud, put it so that it wasengaged and then tapped it with a small ball pein hammer to get it started. I then put a washer onto the stud and fitted the wheel nut and tightened it.....then slackened it, fitted more washers and put the nut back on and tightened it......repeating this process until the wheel nut had 'drawn' through the spline until fully against the back of the hub.

Cheers,

Chris

[PYNEY]

hi chris

after what tozerman has said i'm not going to take the hub off "thanks for the advice tozerman"

you have given me more confidence in doing it myself one more time
i have seen on youtube this method being done with washers and nuts to draw the
stud through so if you have done it i'll give it a go cheers

how did you stop the rear hub turning ? when doing the nut up

cheers keith

[PYNEY]

hi all

update on my wheel studs and anyone else wanting to do the job

well just got round to doing the job and it went as sweet as a nut so to say
thanks for all your help and tips it worked very well indeed

i hammered out the old studs one at a time and replaced as i went
i used a large nut and washer to go over the thread on the stud
and then used a wheel nut to pull the stud in

i used a fine oil to help the stud pull in and lubricate the threads and large nut to stop friction

the biggest help for me was to freeze the studs "this was a tip i found on you tube" and it made it very easy to pull
in

once again thanks to you all for giving me the confidence to do it myself "GREAT SATISFACTION" and saving on garage costs

cheers keith