about to change my fuel filter.

[mikel003003]

Having had a new alternate and some wiring done was delighted when the banshee fired up this morning however she is not running 100% my first port of call is clean out the air filter and swap the fuel filter are there any tips or is it as simple as it looks. Undo the bracket and one bolt top and bottom , its a hell of a filter I have a new one but in future I may be tempted to swap it for a cheap inline one, has anyone done the same or am I missing something ?

[tvrgit]

It is cheap and it is online. Do you mean a smaller one that might restrict the flow rate?

Changing it is pretty easy -aim problem I had was preventing the filter turning while you loosen the unions, but there are flats on the filter body to help. Use new copper washers on the unions, otherwise they are a bd to avoid leaks.

[mikel003003]

tvrgit said:

It is cheap
.

Am I being a skinflint again ? That does keep happening. Thanks for your help.

[phillpot]

S1 (2.8 engine) may be different but on the 2.9 engine that filter is under pressure (its after the fuel pump) NO WAY should you be fitting anything other than the proper filter, which also filters to a far higher level than those "general purpose" inline filters found in car accesory shops.

[mikel003003]

2.8 fuel filter is the same as 2.9, point taken thanks again

[greymrj]

Hi Mike, Philpott is right, it is the same on the S1 as the S2 in that this rather a special high pressure filter and it would be dangerous to replace it with something else. Carefully release the pressure when you start to take it off or petrol may spray everywhere. Couple of tips (hope I'm not teaching grandma etc...):
1. take care not to loose the copper washers from the bolts at top and bottom of the filter. To ensure you get a good seal next time; string the washers on a bit of wire and heat them to cherry red on a gas ring then plunge them into cold water immediately. They are then 'annealed' and softer and will form a seal far better.
2. cut the old filter open, leave it to dry, then see what is in it. If it is pretty clear with only a little dust you are a lucky man. If there is a significant amount of rust or other debris then you have a problem earlier in the fuel system. DONT be tempted to fit another filter downstream of the pump but if there is a lot of rust then it is possible to fit a filter upstream of the pump but I am afraid it isnt easy to get one that fits the TVR pipe size. I have fitted a filter with removable elements, wasnt cheap but it appears to be doing the job. Ring me is you find you need to go down this route.

[GreenV8S]

Injection pumps are usually very vulnerable to suction on the intake side and it's not a good idea to fit a standard filter upstream of them. You can fit a coarse strainer just to keep lumps of crud out, but you should find you already have one of those in the tank.

[mikel003003]

Many thanks for your comments the swap was very straight forward it came with brand new copper washes and had to be done up very tight to get a good seal not easy to stop the whole unit spinning as mentioned earlier. Thanks for the advice and I will always use the correct filter. Will crack open the old one tomorrow to inspect its condition

[greymrj]

Hi Peter, just for the record. I entirely agree you have to be careful not to subject the pump to too much resistence so any filter upstream of it has to be 'full flow'. Discussed this with Demon Tweeks and settled on a Sytec Hi Flow motorsport filter of the type used in the BTCC! Expensive but it is working a treat so far.
Mike, I'd be interested to know what condition the filter is in inside.

[mikel003003]

Some staining to the paper no bits at all not bad as I have no idea when it was changed last and the outside is not very pretty, tried uploading some photos but it wouldn't let me 'bad request' what does that mean ?