MPi Exhaust/Manifold blowing.

[swindorski46]

The exhaust on my '97 cooper has started to blow, right on the flexible part just after the curve from the down pipe.

What I would like to know is, is this a seperate link pipe from the manifold to the Cat or is it all part of the manifold?

If it's all one it could be a good excuse for an LCB or similar!

[jeffriesmullet]

tis all 1 but that flex part is a really good thing as when ur engine rocks it dosnt put strain on the manifold or the rest of the system

[swindorski46]

Right, so the whole manifold is being replaced then.

So now what should I do; standard replacement item, LCB or something else?

I'm tempted to go with the LCB as I'm planning to get it up to stage three bit by bit. It's currently got a K&N, an RC40 back box and the cat has gone (Obviously it gets put back on when I drive it on the road). But if there is a better option then I'd like to know.

Secondly, how hard would it be to fit? I'm not too bad with the spanners but think taking the head off would be a brave move, so if thats involved it's going in somewhere.

Ta!

[miniman]

Dead easy to fit, and you don't need to take the head off. Sometimes it's a struggle to get the downpipe down the back of the engine - I always undo the engine steady bar so I can rock the engine forward to give a bit more clearance. Then you have to attach it to the head with a new gasket. Occasionally, you have to file down the lugs on the pipe / intake to get them to the same thickness, otherwise it will leak. Other fixing points are to the back of the gearbox, the triangular rubber mount at the front side of the rear subframe, and 2 "cotton reels" at the back of the rear subframe. It's not a major job.

I usually jack up one side of the car so I can crawl under it:



As an aside, taking the head off is no big deal either. You obviously have to replace the gasket every time, and torque up the head bolts in the right sequence, nice and carefully.

[jeffriesmullet]

the only thing is the head kits are rover parts only you cant get um anywhere else i heard they hang lover than standard exhausts 2 so will scrape more but tis up 2 u

[swindorski46]

miniman said:

Dead easy to fit,

I'm going to find out where you live and come and batter you to death with the HALF of an exhaust I've managed to get off!!!!


Seriosly though, I am stuck! I can't get the lambda sensor off to save my life, and the manifold simply won't come out with it on.

In all fairness I'd forgotten the "undo the steady bar" trick, do you reckon this would help?

I've been rolling around underneath the car for three hours now, so I'm shutting the garage door and I'll worry about tomorrow!

Cheers,

Swin.

[miniman]

swindorski46 said:

I can't get the lambda sensor off to save my life,

The what now??

Is that one of those new fangled gizmos on MPI cars???

I'll have a look at my workshop manual CD and see what I can figure out. In the meantime, Cooperman will probably be along in a minute...

[jeffriesmullet]

it aint no new fangled gizmo the lambda is on every fuel injected car ever made it senses the particals in the exhaust and send it 2 the ecu which then makes the mixture weeker or strongerwhat about findin where the wire from the lambda goes and disconectin that then take it out of the manifold when its on the floor?

[swindorski46]

jeffriesmullet said:

about findin where the wire from the lambda goes and disconectin that then take it out of the manifold when its on the floor?

Good idea,

tried it about 3 hours ago though

It's not the wiring, it's the actual physical width of the sensor blocking it from dropping out of the bottom.

Thanks for trying though, keep the ideas coming, SOMETHING MUST work sooner or later. My last idea was to hack the downpipes off just before they bend and then pull the manifold out of the top. Desperate, but it could work?!

[miniman]

swindorski46 said:

My last idea was to hack the downpipes off just before they bend and then pull the manifold out of the top. Desperate, but it could work?!

That's how I usually do it - pull the manifold and downpipes upwards out of the engine bay. If you tip the engine forward, it's much easier.

Edit: I meant to say - I don't cut the pipes up, just pull the engine forward and jiggle the pipe out.

>> Edited by miniman on Tuesday 8th June 22:19

[swindorski46]

miniman said:

That's how I usually do it - pull the manifold and downpipes upwards out of the engine bay. If you tip the engine forward, it's much easier.

I think you've just cheered me up.

I'll know for sure tomorrow evening if I eventually manage to pull the bu99er out.

You lot don't know how lucky you are with your uncomplicated engines.......

[jeffriesmullet]

mines a complicated mpi 2 try wd40 over nite or maybe try heating it

[Cooperman]

It SHOULD come out with the engine steady removed and the engine pulled right forward. Remember, the engine on the later cars is 1/2" further forward than on the early cars. If this doesn't work, I guess it's easiest to either saw the sensor off from the pipe, or saw the pipe. This really shouldn't be necessary, but that's easy to say sitting here at my computer!
My cars have carbs, so no problems.

[swindorski46]

Hacked the down pipes off near just before the bend and it all came apart lovely. Took bloody ages and was as uncomfortable as hell, but at least it's done.

If I'd have known there were THREE bolts holding the downpipes to the manifold then I wouldn't have been so upset that it wouldn't come apart after I'd undone the TWO retaining bolts that I could see.
At least that explains why it was stuck together no matter how hard I hit it!!!!

Just got to put it all back together now!!