What accessories shall I buy and training regime
Discussion
Been into cycling for a few years on and off and this time I want to make more of a go of it. I have an old Peugeot drop handle and although I'd love a trek I think I'll keep this for a bit. So my questions are, what changes d I make to make it better? Would new wheels help a lot? With changes such as a new crank or chainset would it be difficult to find compatible parts etc?
Does lycra etc make much difference? Done a few long rides recently and found I definitely need some gloves.
I live in west Yorkshire which I have heard is some of the hardest riding in the country which is quite reassuring because finding it hard to do more than 40miles due to the hills. Is it acceptable to be in lowest gear a lot on steep hills or should I be aiming to be in a higher gear all the time? I try to keep rpm fairly high - prob 60 - 80? Don't have a granny ring though so that can be difficult. Is it cheating to get a granny ring?!?!?!
Will a small local bike shop be able to set my riding position well? Don't think I'm getting enough extension in my legs and have bad knees anyway. Also getting an aching lower back up hills and between shoulder blades.
Just want to buy shiney new bits but don't want to buy a flash new bike only to realise that getting up hills is just as hard!
Does lycra etc make much difference? Done a few long rides recently and found I definitely need some gloves.
I live in west Yorkshire which I have heard is some of the hardest riding in the country which is quite reassuring because finding it hard to do more than 40miles due to the hills. Is it acceptable to be in lowest gear a lot on steep hills or should I be aiming to be in a higher gear all the time? I try to keep rpm fairly high - prob 60 - 80? Don't have a granny ring though so that can be difficult. Is it cheating to get a granny ring?!?!?!
Will a small local bike shop be able to set my riding position well? Don't think I'm getting enough extension in my legs and have bad knees anyway. Also getting an aching lower back up hills and between shoulder blades.
Just want to buy shiney new bits but don't want to buy a flash new bike only to realise that getting up hills is just as hard!
How old is your bike? Got any pics of it?
I've got two 80s Peugeots (check the 'show your bike off' thread).
If it's after 1981 ish it should be compatible with most parts, if its earlier then it will have slightly different sizing on pretty much everything.
Keep in a low gear with hight cadence on hills, no point hurting your knees.
Cycling shorts and gloves are a must for me. The tape on my bars is pretty thin.
I've got two 80s Peugeots (check the 'show your bike off' thread).
If it's after 1981 ish it should be compatible with most parts, if its earlier then it will have slightly different sizing on pretty much everything.
Keep in a low gear with hight cadence on hills, no point hurting your knees.
Cycling shorts and gloves are a must for me. The tape on my bars is pretty thin.
There's quite the market for old retro bikes, looking into this I found it better to sell my old mercian bike and buy a new one.
Double edged bonus as someone got gprs appreciate the bike for what ot was and I got a more enjoyable (for me) bike to ride.
Worth checking the potential value on somewhere like retrobikes.
Double edged bonus as someone got gprs appreciate the bike for what ot was and I got a more enjoyable (for me) bike to ride.
Worth checking the potential value on somewhere like retrobikes.
I quite like the bike but I may consider selling it. I have been out and taken some photos and noted any info, hopefully somebody will know about these bikes and let me know if it is all standard etc and what it's worth.
Spec:
Peugeot Record du Monde
Gears - Simplex 5 (i think) Rings on cassette, 2 on chainset
Shifters - Simplex modele defose
Front wheel - Quando or Ouando?!? Can't be oe due to a collision with a taxi!
Brakes - Weinmann type 730
Handlebars - ATAX
The frame is also stamped with a code beginning Y907 - can I find any info on the bike with this number?
Spec:
Peugeot Record du Monde
Gears - Simplex 5 (i think) Rings on cassette, 2 on chainset
Shifters - Simplex modele defose
Front wheel - Quando or Ouando?!? Can't be oe due to a collision with a taxi!
Brakes - Weinmann type 730
Handlebars - ATAX
The frame is also stamped with a code beginning Y907 - can I find any info on the bike with this number?
torqueofthedevil said:
Will a small local bike shop be able to set my riding position well? Don't think I'm getting enough extension in my legs and have bad knees anyway. Also getting an aching lower back up hills and between shoulder blades.
A very basic way of setting your saddle height:with the ball of your foot on the centre of the pedal (normal riding position) and the crank straight down your knee should be bent a little
with your heel on the pedal and the crank as above your leg should be locked straight, but you shouldn't have to rock your body to the side to reach the pedal
Wheels and a decent set of tyres will make a massive difference to your on-road performance. I'm assuming your bike is already fitted with 700c type wheels - if this is the case then Bontrager wheels will be fine. As regards to tyres, my training bike has ALL CONDITION by Armadillo - these are a great all-round tyre, but if you're feeling a bit brave, then the ones I've got shod on my race bike are Continental Supersonics, which really do zip along (although they haven't got the best puncture resistance). To be honest, I'm not sure a casette hub will be compatible with your current gearing system. As regards to brake blocks, it might be better to just upgrade your Weinmann brake set to something lower down on the Shimano range.
Getting a new bike will not make hills any easier no! Stick with the one you have and maybe upgrade it a bit if needed. Personally think the steel frames look much better than any new bike anyway.
For wheels you will need a 5 speed equipped hub which will be harder to source than the modern 9 ,10 stuff but there are still ones about. Might be easier to keep the hubs you have and have them built onto new rims. Personally I think you should stick to low profile box section ones as new higher profile can look a bit odd on older bikes especially if you are keeping the original group set.
Stick the pic of it on retrobikes forum. People there know their stuff on older models and would give you some more info on it I'm sure. Looks like a nice solid bike anyway.
For wheels you will need a 5 speed equipped hub which will be harder to source than the modern 9 ,10 stuff but there are still ones about. Might be easier to keep the hubs you have and have them built onto new rims. Personally I think you should stick to low profile box section ones as new higher profile can look a bit odd on older bikes especially if you are keeping the original group set.
Stick the pic of it on retrobikes forum. People there know their stuff on older models and would give you some more info on it I'm sure. Looks like a nice solid bike anyway.
Edited by thiscocks on Wednesday 15th June 23:00
Edited by thiscocks on Wednesday 15th June 23:02
Personally in your position I'd get a new bike, which goes against a lot of the previous advice. There's nothing wrong with a retro bike, no reason on earth why it's not capable of going over those Yorkshire hills and as others have intimated, a modern bike won't make the hills any flatter.
So why ?
well, your old frame will be spaced for narrower 5sp hubs and probably 27" wheels although they could be 700c. Yes, it can be altered to take modern hubs but unless you do it yourself, it's a cost for no obvious difference. If you wish to retain the existing rear mech & changers, then although 5sp cassettes may be around it's 5 widely spaced gears with noticable jumps between each.
If you bought new hubs and a 7/8/9 or 10speed cassette then you'll need new changers and most likely you'd move to brake lever gear changing and junk the downtube shifters. And if you don't do the work yourself, then you need to factor in labour costs - it all adds up.
I could see you spending a few hundred on that to update it, even assuming you can find the parts.
But a new bike is even more expensive, so why ?
Well, for starters even a cheap thing will have smoother gearing, one click and it's changed. That alone will be a revelation to someone using friction downtube shifters, but moving from 10 to 16/18 or 20 gears means you have a wider range which are closer together, so moving between gears is easier on your legs. And that's assuming you stick with a double chainset at the front; I'd suggest a triple because having a granny ring isn't cheating. It's better to ride up a hill than walk any day.
Add in modern brakes, cranks, wheels etc and I think you'd be amazed at the difference. Even on a cheapie from Halfords will ride well - why not see if you can get a test ride around the car park from somewhere ?
So why ?
well, your old frame will be spaced for narrower 5sp hubs and probably 27" wheels although they could be 700c. Yes, it can be altered to take modern hubs but unless you do it yourself, it's a cost for no obvious difference. If you wish to retain the existing rear mech & changers, then although 5sp cassettes may be around it's 5 widely spaced gears with noticable jumps between each.
If you bought new hubs and a 7/8/9 or 10speed cassette then you'll need new changers and most likely you'd move to brake lever gear changing and junk the downtube shifters. And if you don't do the work yourself, then you need to factor in labour costs - it all adds up.
I could see you spending a few hundred on that to update it, even assuming you can find the parts.
But a new bike is even more expensive, so why ?
Well, for starters even a cheap thing will have smoother gearing, one click and it's changed. That alone will be a revelation to someone using friction downtube shifters, but moving from 10 to 16/18 or 20 gears means you have a wider range which are closer together, so moving between gears is easier on your legs. And that's assuming you stick with a double chainset at the front; I'd suggest a triple because having a granny ring isn't cheating. It's better to ride up a hill than walk any day.
Add in modern brakes, cranks, wheels etc and I think you'd be amazed at the difference. Even on a cheapie from Halfords will ride well - why not see if you can get a test ride around the car park from somewhere ?
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