Clutchless gear change
Discussion
Hi all,
Only been riding for a couple of months so forgive the newbie question...
I keep reading about clutchless gear changes in the mags - people seem to like them. It's obvious what they are but why do them? And what damage could I cause if I start practicing them.
Worried about back wheel locking up or something similar - is this likely to happen?
Only been riding for a couple of months so forgive the newbie question...
I keep reading about clutchless gear changes in the mags - people seem to like them. It's obvious what they are but why do them? And what damage could I cause if I start practicing them.
Worried about back wheel locking up or something similar - is this likely to happen?
AS stig has said, if you place your foot under the gear lever (ready to change UP), then gently roll off the throttle (just enough to take the load off the engine), you will find that with the slight pressure on the underside of the gear lever, it will naturally snick up into the next gear. If you go to watch a race you will hear very quick up shifts - sometimes it's done this way, but the modern way of doing it is to fit a 'quickshift'. These work by backing off the ignition curve to reduce the power to the engine for a split second, which allows you to do the same thing even quicker.
Don't try this going down the box, cos although you can blip a car in the neutral position when going down the box without a clutch, unless you ride a dog with loads of false neutrals, you just upset the bike (& g/box)!
Don't try this going down the box, cos although you can blip a car in the neutral position when going down the box without a clutch, unless you ride a dog with loads of false neutrals, you just upset the bike (& g/box)!
best thing is to find an empty straight dry road and try it .. just like changing gear but forgetting the clutch...lean on the gearshift and snap the throttle shut and open, and it'll all happen wondefully
It can be done to downshift as well, but it's brutal, and serves no useful purpose I know of
clutchless shifts are worth about 1/2 a second if you ever go to a runwhatyoubrung drag meet, which can make the difference between beating your mates or being first at the bar afterwards
It can be done to downshift as well, but it's brutal, and serves no useful purpose I know of
clutchless shifts are worth about 1/2 a second if you ever go to a runwhatyoubrung drag meet, which can make the difference between beating your mates or being first at the bar afterwards
When hooning I usually use clutch for 1st- 2nd, then clutchless for the other upshifts although sometimes 2nd to 3rd can prove a bit harsh.
Somedays tho I seem to use clutch for most of the shifts other than 4-5-6 which seem to slip in nicer without the clutch.
Just back off the throttle a touch & if you can get it right its a lovely clean instant change, esp when you are really going for it.
Had a clutch cable snap linkage snap on me once, still managed to get home 40 miles out of town & cross country tho, downshifts take a bit of mastering & starting in gear at traffic lights & junctions was fun!
Somedays tho I seem to use clutch for most of the shifts other than 4-5-6 which seem to slip in nicer without the clutch.
Just back off the throttle a touch & if you can get it right its a lovely clean instant change, esp when you are really going for it.
Had a clutch cable snap linkage snap on me once, still managed to get home 40 miles out of town & cross country tho, downshifts take a bit of mastering & starting in gear at traffic lights & junctions was fun!
timbrown said:
....snap the throttle shut and open....
Keith,
gently roll off the throttle (about 1/8 of a turn will do) then get back on the gas. Snapping the throttle open and shut will unsettle the bike and is very agressive ont he drivechain and cush drive, etc...
Be smooth - just like fonzy, (or Fonsie (nieto))
ok, perhaps the words I used were a bit extreme ... if I'd said 'roll off the throttle enough to release the load on the gears sufficiently for them to pull apart with a gentle pressure on the gearshift, feel the shift happen, then open the throttle again' it would have been better
I was desribing what I do myself, which I've learned racing ( circuit and drag ) , and in hindsight, is probably a but brutal for road use
I stand corrected
I was desribing what I do myself, which I've learned racing ( circuit and drag ) , and in hindsight, is probably a but brutal for road use
I stand corrected
fergus, no worries
you filled out my suggestion, between the two of us ( and the other posts ) there's more information than either of us would probably have given alone
hopefully there'll be posts tomorrow from people who've read this, gone out, tried it, mastered it, and improved their riding because of it
you filled out my suggestion, between the two of us ( and the other posts ) there's more information than either of us would probably have given alone
hopefully there'll be posts tomorrow from people who've read this, gone out, tried it, mastered it, and improved their riding because of it
Like iguana I find I need the clutch from 1st to 2nd, maybe 2nd-3rd and the rest go just fine up or down the box.
Strangely enough, the more you are thrashing it, the smoother they get (officer).
For those of you with nice revvy 400s, way back when, when I had one I found if I just kept it pinned and kept my foot under the changer tip, as soon as the rev limiter cut in it would change gear. Now that's an early quickshifter! (same principle)
Strangely enough, the more you are thrashing it, the smoother they get (officer).
For those of you with nice revvy 400s, way back when, when I had one I found if I just kept it pinned and kept my foot under the changer tip, as soon as the rev limiter cut in it would change gear. Now that's an early quickshifter! (same principle)
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