help with removing hex bolt
Discussion
My advice would be to use a centre punch on the outside edge of the bolt. Use the punch to make a dent, then use the punch in the direction you want to go and it should free off, but the bolt won't be any use. Might be worth giving it a knock with an allen key socket to make sure it is loosened up.
There are a number of other options before you get the drill out (although to be honest it might be your best bet). Some people use masonry drills, you can try to epoxy a hex driver in, grinding a hex driver to put a burr on, and then knocking it in so the burr cuts into the screw. Could try a bigger driver, or a flat driver/socket.
If all else fails drill the head off, remove the steering wheel then use a pair of mole grips on the stud left.
Just thought you could grind down a left hand tap or easy out.
Hope that helps,
Neill
There are a number of other options before you get the drill out (although to be honest it might be your best bet). Some people use masonry drills, you can try to epoxy a hex driver in, grinding a hex driver to put a burr on, and then knocking it in so the burr cuts into the screw. Could try a bigger driver, or a flat driver/socket.
If all else fails drill the head off, remove the steering wheel then use a pair of mole grips on the stud left.
Just thought you could grind down a left hand tap or easy out.
Hope that helps,
Neill
Two methods spring to mind:
1. Drill into the screw, then use a stud extractor (aka Easy-out). The drill size has to be chosen to suit the stud extractor (sorry if I'm telling you how to suck eggs).
2. Drill into the screw, gradually working your way up in diameter until the screw head comes off. Then, with the wheel removed, you should be able to wind out the threaded portion.
Good luck!
ETA: Looks like nrick & I were typing at the same time. The suggestion to use a punch is also perfectly valid, just be careful the punch doesn't slip & put a scratch across the wheel.
1. Drill into the screw, then use a stud extractor (aka Easy-out). The drill size has to be chosen to suit the stud extractor (sorry if I'm telling you how to suck eggs).
2. Drill into the screw, gradually working your way up in diameter until the screw head comes off. Then, with the wheel removed, you should be able to wind out the threaded portion.
Good luck!
ETA: Looks like nrick & I were typing at the same time. The suggestion to use a punch is also perfectly valid, just be careful the punch doesn't slip & put a scratch across the wheel.
Edited by S7Paul on Tuesday 17th May 21:23
Punch method would be a bit tricky on small (m5'ish) countersunk which I believe the OP is referring to.
Epoxy (+patience to harden) on as tight a key as possible would be my first stab. Centre drilling countersunks I find damages the other part before you can tap the head off anyway.
Epoxy (+patience to harden) on as tight a key as possible would be my first stab. Centre drilling countersunks I find damages the other part before you can tap the head off anyway.
I've had excellent success with a method that hasn't been mentioned - using coarse Valve lapping Paste in the driver recess. I work in manufacturing in the aerospace avionics industry and over many years I've had 100% success getting out stripped head screws. Works well with cross-recess (Phillips, Frearson, etc) screws and hex socket head screws. I've successfully taken out Phillips heads that an operator stripped the Phillips so that it just appeared to be a perfect countersink.
Here's what you do.
- Test a bunch of screw drivers or hex drivers as the case may be, to see which one seems to have the best fit with the least slippage. Use the best engaging driver you can find.
- Put a drop of Valve Lapping Paste (coarse) into the remnants of the screw. Doesn't take a lot and don't forget you'll eventually you'll have to clean off all remnants after your done.
- Engage your selected driver. For cross-reccess screws, you want to press down with all your might while turning the screw slowly. I can't emphasis enough the need to maintain a high downward force while turning - and turn very, very slowly. For a hex socket style driver, there's no need to press down, but you do want to press sideways so that a corner of the driver bites into a side wall. As with any removal, turn slowly.
The Silicon Carbide is made up of very hard and very sharp edged particles which do a fantastic job of coupling the driver with the screw. It's a great first try method and would enhance several of the suggestions already described.
Gregg
'74 2500M
Here's what you do.
- Test a bunch of screw drivers or hex drivers as the case may be, to see which one seems to have the best fit with the least slippage. Use the best engaging driver you can find.
- Put a drop of Valve Lapping Paste (coarse) into the remnants of the screw. Doesn't take a lot and don't forget you'll eventually you'll have to clean off all remnants after your done.
- Engage your selected driver. For cross-reccess screws, you want to press down with all your might while turning the screw slowly. I can't emphasis enough the need to maintain a high downward force while turning - and turn very, very slowly. For a hex socket style driver, there's no need to press down, but you do want to press sideways so that a corner of the driver bites into a side wall. As with any removal, turn slowly.
The Silicon Carbide is made up of very hard and very sharp edged particles which do a fantastic job of coupling the driver with the screw. It's a great first try method and would enhance several of the suggestions already described.
Gregg
'74 2500M
I've had excellent success with a method that hasn't been mentioned - using coarse Valve lapping Paste in the driver recess. I work in manufacturing in the aerospace avionics industry and over many years I've had 100% success getting out stripped head screws. Works well with cross-recess (Phillips, Frearson, etc) screws and hex socket head screws. I've successfully taken out Phillips heads that an operator stripped the Phillips so that it just appeared to be a perfect countersink.
Here's what you do.
- Test a bunch of screw drivers or hex drivers as the case may be, to see which one seems to have the best fit with the least slippage. Use the best engaging driver you can find.
- Put a drop of Valve Lapping Paste (coarse) into the remnants of the screw. Doesn't take a lot and don't forget you'll eventually you'll have to clean off all remnants after your done.
- Engage your selected driver. For cross-reccess screws, you want to press down with all your might while turning the screw slowly. I can't emphasis enough the need to maintain a high downward force while turning - and turn very, very slowly. For a hex socket style driver, there's no need to press down, but you do want to press sideways so that a corner of the driver bites into a side wall. As with any removal, turn slowly.
The Silicon Carbide is made up of very hard and very sharp edged particles which do a fantastic job of coupling the driver with the screw. It's a great first try method and would enhance several of the suggestions already described.
Gregg
'74 2500M
Here's what you do.
- Test a bunch of screw drivers or hex drivers as the case may be, to see which one seems to have the best fit with the least slippage. Use the best engaging driver you can find.
- Put a drop of Valve Lapping Paste (coarse) into the remnants of the screw. Doesn't take a lot and don't forget you'll eventually you'll have to clean off all remnants after your done.
- Engage your selected driver. For cross-reccess screws, you want to press down with all your might while turning the screw slowly. I can't emphasis enough the need to maintain a high downward force while turning - and turn very, very slowly. For a hex socket style driver, there's no need to press down, but you do want to press sideways so that a corner of the driver bites into a side wall. As with any removal, turn slowly.
The Silicon Carbide is made up of very hard and very sharp edged particles which do a fantastic job of coupling the driver with the screw. It's a great first try method and would enhance several of the suggestions already described.
Gregg
'74 2500M
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