RE: New Flavour of Mobil 1
Wednesday 8th May 2002
New Flavour of Mobil 1
Supersyn stuff added
Discussion
If anyone else id thinking of following the link to the Mobil1 website this morning, I'd advise you to skip the intro, especially if you're hungover.
All sounds fairly convincing stuff there and I think I'll be slopping some into the V8 when my current stash of 'cooking' Mobil1 expires.
I've always assumed that, since the Griff doesn't do short journeys, and is generally used in warmer weather (often at highish engine temps/revs on track etc.) the 15W50 is the better compromise than the 0W40. Anyone care to correct me on this?
All sounds fairly convincing stuff there and I think I'll be slopping some into the V8 when my current stash of 'cooking' Mobil1 expires.
I've always assumed that, since the Griff doesn't do short journeys, and is generally used in warmer weather (often at highish engine temps/revs on track etc.) the 15W50 is the better compromise than the 0W40. Anyone care to correct me on this?
15w50 definately better.
(Mobil did try to get rid of the 50 weight oil for the UK market - the marketing men rather hoped that the 0w40 would suit everything. 0w40 turned out not to be strong enough for bike engines or motors like yours, hence the introduction of the 'motorsport' 50 weight. The US market is sufficiently big for the full range to be available.)
(Mobil did try to get rid of the 50 weight oil for the UK market - the marketing men rather hoped that the 0w40 would suit everything. 0w40 turned out not to be strong enough for bike engines or motors like yours, hence the introduction of the 'motorsport' 50 weight. The US market is sufficiently big for the full range to be available.)
Having gone on to read a bit more of the techy stuff on the Mobil site, after my first posting, I think we're/you're right.
The "50" bit seems to be the thing that helps the oil to hang on when the engine is working hard. Couldn't see when they planned to have on sale in the UK though.
The "50" bit seems to be the thing that helps the oil to hang on when the engine is working hard. Couldn't see when they planned to have on sale in the UK though.
absolutely...I used to use the stuff and I ended up going through a litre every 300/500 miles and the rear of the car would get covered in soot. I was advised to use a good fully synthetic Texaco)......15/40 I think, and it hardly uses oil at all and I get don't get soot problems, damn sight cheaper an all
Come on then chaps help me out a bit. I have read a few web sites and stuff and still can't work out what is best... So in the UK Mobil 1 is a 15w50 whereas I buy the French 5W50 stuff when I'm going through the tunnel. So does this mean that both oils have the same viscosity at high temp (measured at 100degC from what I can make out) and that the 5W is thicker at low temp? And… if so why is this better? Because I'd have thought the oil gets warm pretty quickly? Confused & Confuddled 
Rich...
Rich...The answer lies in the base-stocks that are used to 'build' the oil on. Mobil 1 uses poly-alpha olefins (PAO) as basestock, which are very thin. They then use di-esters and poly-ol esters to strengthen the oil. Generally speaking, the lower the winter rating (5w, 10w etc)then the thinner the basestock or lower the amount of strengthening additives. As a general rule of thumb you can say as far as oil 'strength' goes, then the less difference between winter rating and 100 deg C rating - the last number, then the stronger the oil will be. So 15w50 is stronger than 5w50 - for oils containing the same constituents in differing amounts.
This goes for all oils, not just synthetics
Historically, you will recall that 30 weight mineral oil with viscosity modifiers to make it a 50 weight, comes out as a 20w50, whereas the original 50 weight 'straight' oils test out at 35w50 - which is why they were preferred for racing.
The di-esters and poly-ol esters are the expensive bits, which is why they are kept to a minimum!
Full competition oils such as Mobil and Castrol make, but don't sell to the public - and Red Line, who do, use poly-ol esters as base-stocks.
Hope this helps rather than confuses!
Gavin
This goes for all oils, not just synthetics
Historically, you will recall that 30 weight mineral oil with viscosity modifiers to make it a 50 weight, comes out as a 20w50, whereas the original 50 weight 'straight' oils test out at 35w50 - which is why they were preferred for racing.
The di-esters and poly-ol esters are the expensive bits, which is why they are kept to a minimum!
Full competition oils such as Mobil and Castrol make, but don't sell to the public - and Red Line, who do, use poly-ol esters as base-stocks.
Hope this helps rather than confuses!
Gavin
I must state that I am biased,being involved in the European distribution of Red Line Synthetic Oil, but to try and give an unbiased answer: use something like the Texaco 15w40 or Valvoline 20w50 and change very regularly. For best protection use Red Line 20w50 which will give you at least twice the change interval.
Gavin
Gavin
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