CLK inert steering feel

CLK inert steering feel

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PositronicRay

Original Poster:

27,193 posts

186 months

Wednesday 26th June
quotequote all
2008 CLK 280 convertible that I picked up last year. Inspected on purchase by a specialist, he identified and rectified a couple of problems, front brakes rear springs, rear arb link, and A/C condenser. Otherwise a good clean and tidy car, drives well, newish Pirelli tyres, original 17" wheels, non sport suspension, inflated to 35psi, even wear patterns.

The car feels numb around the straight ahead position, no play, handles, turns, grips and rides well, just this slightly dead feel.

Is this just how they are? Or am I missing something? (I bought it as comfy cruiser so not really expecting a dynamic sports car)

Edited by PositronicRay on Wednesday 26th June 08:35

trevalvole

1,122 posts

36 months

Wednesday 26th June
quotequote all
I suspect 35 psi is too high for 3 or fewer people in the car. My C320 on 17" wheels says 2 bar front (29PSI), 2.2 bar rear (32PSI). What does it say on the table on the inside of the fuel filler flap?

mwstewart

7,757 posts

191 months

Wednesday 26th June
quotequote all
I run 30 all round. I found it to be the best balance of comfort and steering response.

The CLK is not supposed to be a sports car hence the control interfaces are somewhat damped, but having said that I've always found the facelift steering to feel nice - all things considered.

The pre-facelift cars (including the partial facelifts comprising switches/other bits) were a bit on the numb side, but arguably still in keeping with the car.

Unfortunately the original question will be difficult to answer: there could be a genuine issue, or it could be a case of expectations.

Hoofy

76,767 posts

285 months

Wednesday 26th June
quotequote all
Sounds normal for a non-sports car assuming it's not doing anything dangerous. I'd be more interested in checking that 280 engine. They experience the usual crankshaft sensor issues, don't they?

Edited by Hoofy on Wednesday 26th June 13:19

PositronicRay

Original Poster:

27,193 posts

186 months

Wednesday 26th June
quotequote all
Thx all.

I've just had a drive, it doesn't feel like it's self centreing particularly well. Maybe steering geometry, ill discuss on the next sevice.

Dewi 2

1,358 posts

68 months

Wednesday 26th June
quotequote all

I have enjoyed a 2000 CLK 320 Coupe for over 20 years. Reliability has been remarkable, hence continued use of the car.
It is probably feeling rather down at present, having noticed the arrival of a 2 year old E200 (rare petrol), meaning the CLK is now in semi-retirement. My comments refer to the model before yours, so some points might be different.

As far as I know, the steering is not a rack and pinion system, so you are right, there is slightly vague feel and self centering not very strong. On a road without camber, does your CLK run straight, when hands off the wheel? It should do.

Regarding tyres, mine left the factory with Pirelli P6000. Awful road noise. V6 petrol engine very quiet, so road noise is the dominant sound.
Those tyres must be very hard, because they lasted 40,000 miles. Knowing what I later discovered, I should have thrown them away. Michelin Primacy 4 tyres are the ones to have, if you want a quite ride. Even better than Dunlop Sport Maxx, which are also rated 68db (although that is an external sound measurement test).

I have never driven a CLK convertible, so not sure whether there is more cabin noise than the Coupe.

You are bound to encounter wheel arch rust. If your car colour is Brilliant Silver, a DIY rub down and brush over with rust inhibitor, then Hammerite Silver hides it very well for a couple of years, then redo. Look at your front wheelarch liners, forward lower outer corner. They have unfortunately made a cut-out there, which allows road muck to pass through. Damp mud then accumulates behind the wings and you will have a small matching hole in each wing. Could probably block those liner cut-outs. The only other rust that I have encountered, is some on the forward edge, underside bonnet. Only visible when the bonnet is lifted. Underneath the car has survived surprisingly rust free.

If not already done, remove a rubber restrictor in the below windscreen drainage. It is on the nearside, at the point where water drains down to the road. The bonnet can be moved further up, when a movement limiter lever is held open. When the windscreen drainage blocks, your clue will be wet passenger footwell.

Recently encountered failed hydraulic boot release. M-B unable to fix, so I now just open it the old fashioned way.
Headlights now look slightly glazed over, but I think that can be fixed. Still passes MoT.

Enjoy your car.


Edited by Dewi 2 on Wednesday 26th June 21:47

trevalvole

1,122 posts

36 months

Thursday
quotequote all
Dewi 2 said:


As far as I know, the steering is not a rack and pinion system
Your W208 may not have rack and pinion steering, but the OP's W209 does.

m3cs

346 posts

176 months

Thursday
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W208 has recirculating ball steering

PositronicRay

Original Poster:

27,193 posts

186 months

Saturday
quotequote all
trevalvole said:
I suspect 35 psi is too high for 3 or fewer people in the car. My C320 on 17" wheels says 2 bar front (29PSI), 2.2 bar rear (32PSI). What does it say on the table on the inside of the fuel filler flap?
I think 35 is towards the upper end. Wouldn't a higher pressure give a firmer ride but more accurate steering, lower pressure softer but more sluggish?

trevalvole

1,122 posts

36 months

Saturday
quotequote all
PositronicRay said:
Wouldn't a higher pressure give...more accurate steering...?
Yes, I think the steering will be a bit more accurate with higher pressure as the tyre will be stiffer, but also I suspect it will make the steering feel a bit lighter, due to the reduced contact patch.

PositronicRay

Original Poster:

27,193 posts

186 months

Saturday
quotequote all
I was running around 30, then increased it. TBH I didn't notice much difference, I'll try dropping them down again and pay more attention. smile