2007 CLK 320 CDi Sport Auto - good/bad idea?

[SimonTheSailor]

The initial message was deleted from this topic on 12 February 2024 at 15:45

[trevalvole]

I think the conductor plate can go on the 7 speed autos, though with it being a diesel, perhaps it has done enough miles that it has already gone and been replaced?

I know the majority of the later CLKs are in Sport spec, but I do wonder about the wisdom of fitting 18" wheels to a cruiser.

[Dewi 2]

Why do you want the noise of a diesel engine ?

I have been enjoying the previous model CLK for 21 years (now 24 years old). It has an extremely quiet 3.2 litre V6 engine. After I eventually found quiet tyres, every journey has been both peaceful and relaxing. When using full acceleration there is a growl, but certainly not unpleasant.

I think a 3.5 litre V6 petrol was the equivalent engine in the successor model.

I have not experienced any serious maintenance problems and the miniscule depreciation cost, has certainty outweighed any extra fuel (mpg) cost of ESSO Supreme, over diesel.

That car will probably be joining my museum collection this year, if I can find a late model E-Class (need 4 doors now).
The problem there, is most are diesel powered. -

[mwstewart]

Usual diesel issues like injectors, swirl flaps, egr etc.

If you're covering big miles it could make sense, but the multi-cylinder petrols feel like a completely different (better) car.

[ccr32]

I've had a 2007 CLK 280 petrol for a couple of years now - touch wood, it has been pretty much faultless. Had to replace a broken spring and a pair of drop links prior to the last MOT, but they're wear items really so not a big shock. Likewise new battery went in it recently, but I think the last one was the original so it had had a good life!

All this said, I have had an EML recently for stuck flaps in the intake manifold... and after a bit more research have found out that it's quite an involved job to replace (with the part itself being a good few hundred quid on its own). The flaps in mine seem to be stuck in the low rpm position, however, which means it gives no trouble when wafting about and taking it easy, only showing the light and corresponding codes if you decide to hoof it. So I may just leave it and pretend like it never happened, while only driving more sedately from now on...

[mwstewart]

ccr32 said:

I've had a 2007 CLK 280 petrol for a couple of years now - touch wood, it has been pretty much faultless. Had to replace a broken spring and a pair of drop links prior to the last MOT, but they're wear items really so not a big shock. Likewise new battery went in it recently, but I think the last one was the original so it had had a good life!

All this said, I have had an EML recently for stuck flaps in the intake manifold... and after a bit more research have found out that it's quite an involved job to replace (with the part itself being a good few hundred quid on its own). The flaps in mine seem to be stuck in the low rpm position, however, which means it gives no trouble when wafting about and taking it easy, only showing the light and corresponding codes if you decide to hoof it. So I may just leave it and pretend like it never happened, while only driving more sedately from now on...

I had that issue on my CLK63; it isn't actually the flaps but either the vacuum actuator or the linkage. They are external parts at the rear of the inlet manifold. Made out of plastic

There was a repair kit for mine. It was straightforward just time consuming. It took me a few hours one afternoon to perform the repair.

[ccr32]

mwstewart said:

I had that issue on my CLK63; it isn't actually the flaps but either the vacuum actuator or the linkage. They are external parts at the rear of the inlet manifold. Made out of plastic

There was a repair kit for mine. It was straightforward just time consuming. It took me a few hours one afternoon to perform the repair.

Thanks. I have seen the repair kits as well but figured on a 17 year old / 100k mile car, the flaps are probably gummed up with gunk inside the manifold anyway so may just be best to replace the lot - guess the best thing to do would be to pull it all off and have a good look first.

Also seen "upgrade" repair kits which replace the plastic levers and cams etc for metal ones, though other people then pipe up saying that you're just moving the problem to another (probably more expensive to repair) part of the engine...