How to check if brakes work on car unused for a year
Discussion
I have an automatic 2005 C180K which hasn't moved for a year (engine has been kept running).
I need to reverse the car, there is a brick wall about 6 yards behind and I am concerned in case the brakes don't function properly whilst I am reversing.
I presume most-likely it will be okay? But feel happier having a plan.
Is it possible to test the brakes before I put it in Reverse? Park to Neutral, push car, try brakes, if brakes don't work use the handbrake?
If not, I put it in Reverse, brake, doesn't work, I then.... brake pedal to floor so I can change gear to Neutral then handbrake? I presume I can still change gear with brake pedal down even if the brakes aren't slowing it down?
(This might be an obvious Q but I've never needed to use Neutral in all the years I've driven)
I need to reverse the car, there is a brick wall about 6 yards behind and I am concerned in case the brakes don't function properly whilst I am reversing.
I presume most-likely it will be okay? But feel happier having a plan.
Is it possible to test the brakes before I put it in Reverse? Park to Neutral, push car, try brakes, if brakes don't work use the handbrake?
If not, I put it in Reverse, brake, doesn't work, I then.... brake pedal to floor so I can change gear to Neutral then handbrake? I presume I can still change gear with brake pedal down even if the brakes aren't slowing it down?
(This might be an obvious Q but I've never needed to use Neutral in all the years I've driven)
I’d be more concerned about the brakes being stuck on. Has it been left with the ‘hand’ brake on?
You can test the brake pedal with the engine running and see if it goes to the floor, but getting the car moving might require some beans so it might suddenly move. I had a C Class of the same age that I didn’t use much and it always made a wicked ‘clonk’ when moved.
It’ll shift to neutral whatever you’re doing. 6 yds is quite a bit of space - maybe put a couple of sandbags or similar behind the car if you’re worried.
You can test the brake pedal with the engine running and see if it goes to the floor, but getting the car moving might require some beans so it might suddenly move. I had a C Class of the same age that I didn’t use much and it always made a wicked ‘clonk’ when moved.
It’ll shift to neutral whatever you’re doing. 6 yds is quite a bit of space - maybe put a couple of sandbags or similar behind the car if you’re worried.
tele_lover said:
Yeah handbrake on...... not good?
The cables may stick but you can usually help them by lifting the "hand"brake pedal with your foot. The shoes are likely to stick to the drum and only release as the car moves. If parked on level ground I didn't use hand handbrake on mine - Park will hold the car as it locks the transmission.Brake pads generally tend to stick to discs over time (sometimes even overnight if the discs are wet).
tele_lover said:
Sheepshanks said:
I’d be more concerned about the brakes being stuck on. Has it been left with the ‘hand’ brake on?
Yeah handbrake on...... not good?Oh dear, did you not know the consequenses?
My 2000 W208 probably has the same auto box and foot handbrake.
I would try the following;
Place some bricks a little way behind your car's rear wheels (think you described a nearby wall).
The main brakes and handbrake are most unlikely to all not be working.
Sticking on brakes are far more likely. The handbrake very likely to be stuck on.
Release (foot) handbrake, but rest foot on the pedal ready to quickly apply handbrake if necessary.
Assume auto, so after starting engine select reverse.
Gently apply more throttle (presume the handbrake pads are probably stuck to the discs) hoping the force will release the stuck pads.
If it does free, the moment the car starts to move backwards, instantly off thrittle and press your foot hard down to apply the handbrake.
If you have quick reactions, the car should have only moved one foot or so.
If you do not have quick reactions and the wall is very close, then perhaps best not to try my suggestion.
Dewi 2 said:
tele_lover said:
Sheepshanks said:
I’d be more concerned about the brakes being stuck on. Has it been left with the ‘hand’ brake on?
Yeah handbrake on...... not good?Oh dear, did you not know the consequenses?
My 2000 W208 probably has the same auto box and foot handbrake.
I would try the following;
Place some bricks a little way behind your car's rear wheels (think you described a nearby wall).
The main brakes and handbrake are most unlikely to all not be working.
Sticking on brakes are far more likely. The handbrake very likely to be stuck on.
Release (foot) handbrake, but rest foot on the pedal ready to quickly apply handbrake if necessary.
Assume auto, so after starting engine select reverse.
Gently apply more throttle (presume the handbrake pads are probably stuck to the discs) hoping the force will release the stuck pads.
If it does free, the moment the car starts to move backwards, instantly off thrittle and press your foot hard down to apply the handbrake.
If you have quick reactions, the car should have only moved one foot or so.
If you do not have quick reactions and the wall is very close, then perhaps best not to try my suggestion.
If yes, then happy days and I'm done.
Otherwise, try what you suggested?
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