C63 w204 part service history - worth the risk?
Discussion
Hi everyone, first post here, looking for a bit of advice. I've been in the market for a C63 for a while but am being patient to try and find a good deal. Recently, one has come up that has part service history. Normally this would turn me off right away, however I think it could be a worthwhile gamble. I'll provide a breakdown of the service history below and I wanted to know peoples thoughts of the large service gap - not many miles covered but a long time without a service, thoughts on how this potentially effected the car if at all? Also, it has passed it's MOT every year, with the only red flag being a failure due to brake pipe corrosion in 2023. Spoke to the garage and they said the replaced them.
06/03/2023 @ 41409 miles – Indy garage (VAG specialist)
Front brake discs and pads
06/02/2023 @ 41283 miles – Indy garage (VAG specialist)
Brake fluid change
Gearbox oil change
Spark Plugs
Air Filters
Interim Service
27/11/2018 @ 36709 miles – Indy garage (VAG specialist)
Carry out “A” service
05/04/2017 @ 30014 miles – MB
Service “B”
Spark Plugs
Brake Fluid
07/03/2016 @ 21525 miles – MB
Service “A”
Gearbox Service
21/10/2014 @ 13458 miles –. MB
Service “B”
07/11/2013 @ 6812 miles – MB
Service “A”
06/03/2023 @ 41409 miles – Indy garage (VAG specialist)
Front brake discs and pads
06/02/2023 @ 41283 miles – Indy garage (VAG specialist)
Brake fluid change
Gearbox oil change
Spark Plugs
Air Filters
Interim Service
27/11/2018 @ 36709 miles – Indy garage (VAG specialist)
Carry out “A” service
05/04/2017 @ 30014 miles – MB
Service “B”
Spark Plugs
Brake Fluid
07/03/2016 @ 21525 miles – MB
Service “A”
Gearbox Service
21/10/2014 @ 13458 miles –. MB
Service “B”
07/11/2013 @ 6812 miles – MB
Service “A”
If the mileage is genuine and the condition is good, then given the age of the car i wouldn't be overly worried about the gap in servicing if it's only done 4.5k miles between the oil getting changed.
The last service should have been a B and not an interim, although there's not that much difference between the two, just additional checks over an above an oil and filter change.
The last service should have been a B and not an interim, although there's not that much difference between the two, just additional checks over an above an oil and filter change.
av185 said:
Just 4500 miles over four years and without an oil change too.
Run unless you are prepared to take quite a risk and get quite a discount ££.
I'm not a mechanic by any means, which is why I posted here to try get some insight. I know leaving a 5 year gap for service is not good, but doing only a few thousand miles over that period, I think it may have been OK. I just don't understand what potential damage it could have done the engine Run unless you are prepared to take quite a risk and get quite a discount ££.
Terzo123 said:
If the mileage is genuine and the condition is good, then given the age of the car i wouldn't be overly worried about the gap in servicing if it's only done 4.5k miles between the oil getting changed.
The last service should have been a B and not an interim, although there's not that much difference between the two, just additional checks over an above an oil and filter change.
Thanks for your response. It's quite a long drive and I only really want to go for a test drive if I'm half committed to buying. I know to listen for any knocks or rattles but not sure if you have advice on anything in particular to look out for considering the history? The last service should have been a B and not an interim, although there's not that much difference between the two, just additional checks over an above an oil and filter change.
If the car runs well and there are no dodgy noises, id check that the brake pipes have been replaced as stated. Check the disks and pads.
Id also check the wheels. The 19s are bad for cracking, and a dodgy repair should be easy to spot. Check the inside of the rear tyres. They wear quickly and can look perfectly legal from the outside, however the inside is shot.
Rear sub frames are bad for corrosion, however Merc are generally replacing them FOC if there is bad corrosion.
The below is copied from the C63 UK facebook page
Common issues:
1. Noisy lifters - ticking noises on 1st cold start of day, usually last 5-10mins. Usually indicative of low oil level. Wear & tear item & part due to design. Changing them does not necessarily guarantee no noise. Certain oil brand like Liqui Moly helps.
2. Camshaft adjuster - metallic rattle for 5-10secs cold or warm start. Again, its a wear & tear item. Will require changing once it gets worse.
Genuine MB part is costly.
Other options are from @63everything on Insta
https://www.63motorsports.com/m156-shop/amg-camsha...
3. Rocker cover crack / gasket leak. Best to change whole cover as it comes with gasket as part of set. Usual cracks will not be visible until heated up.
4. OEM Multispoke wheels are soft & prone to cracks
5. Transmission can breakdown if regular burnouts. Steering pump at risk with multiple donuts too.
6. Rear subframe rust if car has not been maintained well. The rust issue is now more common, especially in pre facelift ones 9-10yrs car. The rust happens inside out.
7. Headbolt issue - Prefacelift cars. Check if engine number ending 60 060658 and above for reassurance.
Headbolt issues are more common in US, as per online findings. Less common in UK.
8. Injectors will need checking during major service as they can get stucked open, causing hydrolock. (Some correlation with mapped cars but random)
❗️Advisable to change whole set of injectors now as cars are >8yrs and injectors gets clogged and do fail. ❗️
9. Paint issue - Fire Opal Red is known to have micro blisters - MB aware and will need strip down to bare metal and repaint
10. Crankcase ‘Upper Sump’ oil leak - due to factory sealant perishing with time. This has become more of an issue of late. Different degree of leak with different cars. Some gets worse, some just remains oil damp around the lower case. Can be monitored and remain the same for years or it can worsened. No set pattern. Major job as its engine out job.
‘Mid sump’ oil leak is less costly, only require transmission out.
‘Lower sump’ is the easiest fix.
11. Brake lines prone to corrosion. Usually done together with corroded rear subframe.
12. Idler pulleys and aux belt should be checked at alternate service intervals. The belt may fray and pulleys degrade and give way without warning
Id also check the wheels. The 19s are bad for cracking, and a dodgy repair should be easy to spot. Check the inside of the rear tyres. They wear quickly and can look perfectly legal from the outside, however the inside is shot.
Rear sub frames are bad for corrosion, however Merc are generally replacing them FOC if there is bad corrosion.
The below is copied from the C63 UK facebook page
Common issues:
1. Noisy lifters - ticking noises on 1st cold start of day, usually last 5-10mins. Usually indicative of low oil level. Wear & tear item & part due to design. Changing them does not necessarily guarantee no noise. Certain oil brand like Liqui Moly helps.
2. Camshaft adjuster - metallic rattle for 5-10secs cold or warm start. Again, its a wear & tear item. Will require changing once it gets worse.
Genuine MB part is costly.
Other options are from @63everything on Insta
https://www.63motorsports.com/m156-shop/amg-camsha...
3. Rocker cover crack / gasket leak. Best to change whole cover as it comes with gasket as part of set. Usual cracks will not be visible until heated up.
4. OEM Multispoke wheels are soft & prone to cracks
5. Transmission can breakdown if regular burnouts. Steering pump at risk with multiple donuts too.
6. Rear subframe rust if car has not been maintained well. The rust issue is now more common, especially in pre facelift ones 9-10yrs car. The rust happens inside out.
7. Headbolt issue - Prefacelift cars. Check if engine number ending 60 060658 and above for reassurance.
Headbolt issues are more common in US, as per online findings. Less common in UK.
8. Injectors will need checking during major service as they can get stucked open, causing hydrolock. (Some correlation with mapped cars but random)
❗️Advisable to change whole set of injectors now as cars are >8yrs and injectors gets clogged and do fail. ❗️
9. Paint issue - Fire Opal Red is known to have micro blisters - MB aware and will need strip down to bare metal and repaint
10. Crankcase ‘Upper Sump’ oil leak - due to factory sealant perishing with time. This has become more of an issue of late. Different degree of leak with different cars. Some gets worse, some just remains oil damp around the lower case. Can be monitored and remain the same for years or it can worsened. No set pattern. Major job as its engine out job.
‘Mid sump’ oil leak is less costly, only require transmission out.
‘Lower sump’ is the easiest fix.
11. Brake lines prone to corrosion. Usually done together with corroded rear subframe.
12. Idler pulleys and aux belt should be checked at alternate service intervals. The belt may fray and pulleys degrade and give way without warning
Kaze said:
Is there honestly no better car out there, that doesn’t have a 5 year gap in its service history?
If the car was immaculate and only had 1 owner, then ‘maybe’ it’d be worth the risk. Otherwise I’d just find another car.
That was my thinking, that is quite a gap for a car that's actually been driven. I mean if you were buying privately and someone said they'd done that mileage within 12-18 months then stored the car it may make sense. If the car was immaculate and only had 1 owner, then ‘maybe’ it’d be worth the risk. Otherwise I’d just find another car.
Again if the car had been stored without an oil change then again makes some sense. I assume the MOT history shows mileage going on and MOTs being done over that period.
In reality it's probably ok but if there are others available, I'd be looking at those.
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