Cls 320 cdi mechanical advice
Discussion
Ok im new to any sort of forum but after trawling the Internet over and over I thought it best to get some genuine advice from the PH community.
About 6 months ago i purchased an 07 cls 320 cdi with 120k, it was a friends and had been sat at my local garage for 6 months and the price was good based on my research. To be fair this is technically my first ever car bar the use of work vehicles and the mrs's car/s.
I love my cls, not everyones cup of tea but seeing as it's my first car I probably feel like most 17yr olds with their first punto/fiesta etc, not taking anything away from those cars 😉
Ok to the point over the last month I've started to notice a few problems there's 3 to be exact and the first one has always been here since i got the car.
1st
The car has a vibration that shakes the steering wheel and indicator stalk, its not horrendously bad and doesn't make for a bad drive but its becoming annoying now the shines fading away (slightly) when driving the vibration almost completely dissappears. On idle its quite a rumble /vibration, noticeably worse in park or reverse. This is strange but i accidently pushed the accelerator whilst the handbrake was on one night after pulling up at home and i noticed this stopped the vibration, not sure if that's in anyway helpful as i imagine this would be similar to the car moving then the vibration goes away.
When in stationary Traffic after a few minutes there's like a drop/thud and the vibration becomes more intense.
2nd
Lately a creak (not really a squeak had developed from the drivers front side. The creak can only be heard when turning slowly and when almost fully stopped approaching traffic etc. Theres no noticeable noise when the car is over un even terrain or any pot hole or bump in the road just. It seems as though when slowing and almost stopped the weight of the car presses down over the area causing this creak. It doesn't sound like a grind or squeak it's definitely a creaking noise. What could this be?
And finally this seems to be something im toying with my self about as i think sometimes it could be me getting used to the car or overthinking. At times it feels as though im not getting the kick i used to from the turbo. There's no loss of power i. E limp mode or reduced power but every now and then i have noticed what feels like a lack of kick from the car. It seems to go to high revs with still some decent power but it just doesn't feel as juiced as it used to, but than other times it can surprise me and feel like its almost woke up abit. Im saying i dont know if its me overthinking or getting used to it because it feels like a fine line between has something gone a miss /is it the actuator pipe is it a build up of crap or something I don't know about. Its a tough one but im gunna say I think its lost something although its not always feeling that way.
Wow well I apologise for the essay but any advice would be much appreciated before i take it in to my local garage as i would really like to not end up with the huge bills ive seen people post about online.
On a brighter note I've got her in for a full paint detail/correction/engine detail and full interior clean in a few days, i cant wait to see the outcome.
Hopefully the mechanical side shouldn't be too bad. No point having it look gleaning on the outside but its falling apart from inside haha
TIA guys
About 6 months ago i purchased an 07 cls 320 cdi with 120k, it was a friends and had been sat at my local garage for 6 months and the price was good based on my research. To be fair this is technically my first ever car bar the use of work vehicles and the mrs's car/s.
I love my cls, not everyones cup of tea but seeing as it's my first car I probably feel like most 17yr olds with their first punto/fiesta etc, not taking anything away from those cars 😉
Ok to the point over the last month I've started to notice a few problems there's 3 to be exact and the first one has always been here since i got the car.
1st
The car has a vibration that shakes the steering wheel and indicator stalk, its not horrendously bad and doesn't make for a bad drive but its becoming annoying now the shines fading away (slightly) when driving the vibration almost completely dissappears. On idle its quite a rumble /vibration, noticeably worse in park or reverse. This is strange but i accidently pushed the accelerator whilst the handbrake was on one night after pulling up at home and i noticed this stopped the vibration, not sure if that's in anyway helpful as i imagine this would be similar to the car moving then the vibration goes away.
When in stationary Traffic after a few minutes there's like a drop/thud and the vibration becomes more intense.
2nd
Lately a creak (not really a squeak had developed from the drivers front side. The creak can only be heard when turning slowly and when almost fully stopped approaching traffic etc. Theres no noticeable noise when the car is over un even terrain or any pot hole or bump in the road just. It seems as though when slowing and almost stopped the weight of the car presses down over the area causing this creak. It doesn't sound like a grind or squeak it's definitely a creaking noise. What could this be?
And finally this seems to be something im toying with my self about as i think sometimes it could be me getting used to the car or overthinking. At times it feels as though im not getting the kick i used to from the turbo. There's no loss of power i. E limp mode or reduced power but every now and then i have noticed what feels like a lack of kick from the car. It seems to go to high revs with still some decent power but it just doesn't feel as juiced as it used to, but than other times it can surprise me and feel like its almost woke up abit. Im saying i dont know if its me overthinking or getting used to it because it feels like a fine line between has something gone a miss /is it the actuator pipe is it a build up of crap or something I don't know about. Its a tough one but im gunna say I think its lost something although its not always feeling that way.
Wow well I apologise for the essay but any advice would be much appreciated before i take it in to my local garage as i would really like to not end up with the huge bills ive seen people post about online.
On a brighter note I've got her in for a full paint detail/correction/engine detail and full interior clean in a few days, i cant wait to see the outcome.
Hopefully the mechanical side shouldn't be too bad. No point having it look gleaning on the outside but its falling apart from inside haha
TIA guys
1, and potentially 2, is/are almost certainly caused by engine mounts giving up the ghost. They’re oil filled / damped and at that mileage will be pretty tired, and bring about a rumble and harshness. Relatively simple to replace if the car can be got up in the air easily. Recommend either MB or Lemforder units, and best to replace the gearbox mounting at the same time.
The third symptom doesn’t sound too much like turbo actuator failure as that more often gives a jerking / hiccup effect under acceleration. Ideally get the car checked for error codes and ho from there.
The third symptom doesn’t sound too much like turbo actuator failure as that more often gives a jerking / hiccup effect under acceleration. Ideally get the car checked for error codes and ho from there.
1) engine and or gearbox mounts
2) if you dont have any history of having changed any suspension components the suspension arms and ball joints will be very tired and squeaky by 120k miles.
If you do a bit of research with part numbers you will be able to source all the front engine components in decent brands like Lemfoder for around £500. A few years ago i sourced for my CLS the upper and lower wishbone arms, inner and outer track rod arms, new ball joints and one other suspension control arm for each side by using ebay and eurocarparts in lemfoder and meyle brands.
A lot of the components are the same as the W211 E class.
2) if you dont have any history of having changed any suspension components the suspension arms and ball joints will be very tired and squeaky by 120k miles.
If you do a bit of research with part numbers you will be able to source all the front engine components in decent brands like Lemfoder for around £500. A few years ago i sourced for my CLS the upper and lower wishbone arms, inner and outer track rod arms, new ball joints and one other suspension control arm for each side by using ebay and eurocarparts in lemfoder and meyle brands.
A lot of the components are the same as the W211 E class.
Paddymcc said:
1) engine and or gearbox mounts
2) if you dont have any history of having changed any suspension components the suspension arms and ball joints will be very tired and squeaky by 120k miles.
If you do a bit of research with part numbers you will be able to source all the front engine components in decent brands like Lemfoder for around £500. A few years ago i sourced for my CLS the upper and lower wishbone arms, inner and outer track rod arms, new ball joints and one other suspension control arm for each side by using ebay and eurocarparts in lemfoder and meyle brands.
A lot of the components are the same as the W211 E class.
Many thanks for the reply as to the others2) if you dont have any history of having changed any suspension components the suspension arms and ball joints will be very tired and squeaky by 120k miles.
If you do a bit of research with part numbers you will be able to source all the front engine components in decent brands like Lemfoder for around £500. A few years ago i sourced for my CLS the upper and lower wishbone arms, inner and outer track rod arms, new ball joints and one other suspension control arm for each side by using ebay and eurocarparts in lemfoder and meyle brands.
A lot of the components are the same as the W211 E class.
I read a post from a cls owner who documented his issues in regards to the engine mounts and he was amazed at the quiet and stillness once changed so that's my first priority getting these changed ASAP
In regards to the suspension, excuse me as im not well up mechanically, would it not squeak as opposed to creak, it only seems to do it when turning the car at a slow speed and its only from the drivers side. Would you recommend getting both sides seen to?
Im still having the issue with the turbo, i dropped it off today to the detailers and gave it some on the way there and it still seemed to be lacking just a little. What could cause a mild decline in power?
Jonesy1472 said:
Many thanks for the reply as to the others
I read a post from a cls owner who documented his issues in regards to the engine mounts and he was amazed at the quiet and stillness once changed so that's my first priority getting these changed ASAP
In regards to the suspension, excuse me as im not well up mechanically, would it not squeak as opposed to creak, it only seems to do it when turning the car at a slow speed and its only from the drivers side. Would you recommend getting both sides seen to?
Im still having the issue with the turbo, i dropped it off today to the detailers and gave it some on the way there and it still seemed to be lacking just a little. What could cause a mild decline in power?
I’ve only changed the mounts on our 211 and without doubt the best return on £150 of parts I have ever experienced! I read a post from a cls owner who documented his issues in regards to the engine mounts and he was amazed at the quiet and stillness once changed so that's my first priority getting these changed ASAP
In regards to the suspension, excuse me as im not well up mechanically, would it not squeak as opposed to creak, it only seems to do it when turning the car at a slow speed and its only from the drivers side. Would you recommend getting both sides seen to?
Im still having the issue with the turbo, i dropped it off today to the detailers and gave it some on the way there and it still seemed to be lacking just a little. What could cause a mild decline in power?
219/211s are heavy on front suspensions, and I replaced all front bottom arms, ball joints and the dampers, on our CLS at c115k miles which cured some squeaking. I only replaced the ball joints on the top arms, and creaking carried on until I replaced the top arms themselves so it could be that. I’ve also read of anti-roll bar mounts creaking.
On the loss of oomph, it may be worth checking the hoses to and from the intercooler - if they split or come loose that will drop power.
Creaking definitely likely to be suspension-related and likely bottom ball joints. As already mentioned above by another poster, these cars are heavy and very hard on suspension components; I replaced both upper arms and bottom ball joints on my W211 E-Class. They also eat coil springs for breakfast (not sure if the CLS is the same in that regard, but probably).
PS. If you ever need to do bottom ball joints, I believe the official method involves replacing the entire lower arm, but they can be easily pressed-out with an appropriate tool (basically, a massive G-clamp with adapters that can be used to both press the old ball joint out, as well as press the new one in).
PS. If you ever need to do bottom ball joints, I believe the official method involves replacing the entire lower arm, but they can be easily pressed-out with an appropriate tool (basically, a massive G-clamp with adapters that can be used to both press the old ball joint out, as well as press the new one in).
ian_uk1975 said:
Creaking definitely likely to be suspension-related and likely bottom ball joints. As already mentioned above by another poster, these cars are heavy and very hard on suspension components; I replaced both upper arms and bottom ball joints on my W211 E-Class. They also eat coil springs for breakfast (not sure if the CLS is the same in that regard, but probably).
PS. If you ever need to do bottom ball joints, I believe the official method involves replacing the entire lower arm, but they can be easily pressed-out with an appropriate tool (basically, a massive G-clamp with adapters that can be used to both press the old ball joint out, as well as press the new one in).
Thankfully i have a decent mechanic that we've always used, although i would like to send it on to an mb specialist im fully aware the cost will quadruple if not alot more. Thanks for the information and advice much appreciated PS. If you ever need to do bottom ball joints, I believe the official method involves replacing the entire lower arm, but they can be easily pressed-out with an appropriate tool (basically, a massive G-clamp with adapters that can be used to both press the old ball joint out, as well as press the new one in).
Great cars and mega value now, i'd have one again.
Creak: Like others have said, the front suspension gets a good workout and it cheap to replace the components now £170 for the kit, i had one about 6 years ago and this job was about £650 inc labour
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-SUSPENSION-WISHBO...
Power loss: Intercooler hoses, i replaced two on mine, over time the rubber degrades, and the splits in the pipes cause power loss and sometimes the eml/limp mode.
I had another fault with a exhaust temp sensor that caused the car to go into limp mode when you booted it. Took a decent Merc Specialist to find the fault.
There's also a red turbo seal that can fail over time, less than £20
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A6420940080-Turbo-Breat...
The drivers window regulator also fails on most of them..
Other than than, great cars!
Creak: Like others have said, the front suspension gets a good workout and it cheap to replace the components now £170 for the kit, i had one about 6 years ago and this job was about £650 inc labour
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-SUSPENSION-WISHBO...
Power loss: Intercooler hoses, i replaced two on mine, over time the rubber degrades, and the splits in the pipes cause power loss and sometimes the eml/limp mode.
I had another fault with a exhaust temp sensor that caused the car to go into limp mode when you booted it. Took a decent Merc Specialist to find the fault.
There's also a red turbo seal that can fail over time, less than £20
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A6420940080-Turbo-Breat...
The drivers window regulator also fails on most of them..
Other than than, great cars!
S8QUATTRO said:
Great cars and mega value now, i'd have one again.
Creak: Like others have said, the front suspension gets a good workout and it cheap to replace the components now £170 for the kit, i had one about 6 years ago and this job was about £650 inc labour
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-SUSPENSION-WISHBO...
Power loss: Intercooler hoses, i replaced two on mine, over time the rubber degrades, and the splits in the pipes cause power loss and sometimes the eml/limp mode.
I had another fault with a exhaust temp sensor that caused the car to go into limp mode when you booted it. Took a decent Merc Specialist to find the fault.
There's also a red turbo seal that can fail over time, less than £20
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A6420940080-Turbo-Breat...
The drivers window regulator also fails on most of them..
Other than than, great cars!
Thanks for the information when the lockdown lifts ill be getting it in to get these problems looked it. Just got it back from the detailing yesterday and it looks fantastic, even though personally I think they look great on black it shows up every mortal spec on the paintwork and I'm dying to get it cleaned but I'm just leaving it alone for now hahaCreak: Like others have said, the front suspension gets a good workout and it cheap to replace the components now £170 for the kit, i had one about 6 years ago and this job was about £650 inc labour
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-SUSPENSION-WISHBO...
Power loss: Intercooler hoses, i replaced two on mine, over time the rubber degrades, and the splits in the pipes cause power loss and sometimes the eml/limp mode.
I had another fault with a exhaust temp sensor that caused the car to go into limp mode when you booted it. Took a decent Merc Specialist to find the fault.
There's also a red turbo seal that can fail over time, less than £20
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A6420940080-Turbo-Breat...
The drivers window regulator also fails on most of them..
Other than than, great cars!
Gave it a blast earlier still seems slack on power but nothing like limp mode or really noticeable power loss. When i got it my mechanic told me hed replaced the actuator pipe for a recon one and the front brakes had seized.
In fairness it needs a good service aswell.
Gassing Station | Mercedes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff