W126 560 SEC - advice on potential purchase
Discussion
Hi - after a chance conversation, I have an opportunity to buy a 560 SEC from someone I know, who is selling on behalf of a relative who sadly passed away. The previous owner has owned the car for nearly 23 years, and was the third owner.
Initially the price range he wanted and the mileage (50k), plus fresh MOT with one advisory for corrosion on a brake pipe made this a no regrets purchase assuming it wasn't completely rotten, but on seeing the car today - i can see in 2002 it had a replacement instrument cluster, and the mileage at the time was 89k. Makes it a much more believable 140k mile car, so at likely 6k-6.5k isn't quite the mega-bargain i hoped.
The car hasn't moved much in a year, and is filthy and still full of personal possessions sadly, but underneath I think there may be a great car there. Now - don't judge me - but whilst I could never think of modifying my R129, I think a 560 SEC is begging to be subtly lowered, and with either 17" or monoblock 18" AMG wheels. So end state would be that, with the key jobs done, and then some happy wafting.
I've done lots of googling over past 2 weeks to try and get up to speed on the larger jobs, but could use some advice:
- Parcel shelf rot. Whilst the bodywork in general is exceptional (had had new wings quite recently), looking up from inside the boot shows a hole, and lots of rust. How much for a future-proof repair, and does this ever risk an MOT failure if left for a bit?
- Seat belt extenders. Driver's side doesn't work. How much of a pain to resolve?
- Rear looks a little low before started. Stupidly, i didn't check it again after a drive. Am i right in thinking the rear would self level when pressurised? Even if there is an issue - would the typical means of lowering one of these effectively by-pass the SLS anyway?
- Sun roof retracted about 80% of the way back. That normal, or should it go all the way? I know fixing or replacing is a big job....
- How much of a pain is it to fix the rear blind? I can hear the motor, but nothing happens.
Otherwise, starts fine, idles beautifully, stops well (and 4k bill from 2017 where discs and calipers were replaced), everything else electrical works, including heated seats. Air con blows cold, no warning lights, and drives well - although pulls the the right a little under acceleration (tyre pressures looked very low tho,which won't help). If i can get for 6k including a perfect plate, I figure even though i don't plan to sell soon - i couldn't go far wrong. What am i missing?
Initially the price range he wanted and the mileage (50k), plus fresh MOT with one advisory for corrosion on a brake pipe made this a no regrets purchase assuming it wasn't completely rotten, but on seeing the car today - i can see in 2002 it had a replacement instrument cluster, and the mileage at the time was 89k. Makes it a much more believable 140k mile car, so at likely 6k-6.5k isn't quite the mega-bargain i hoped.
The car hasn't moved much in a year, and is filthy and still full of personal possessions sadly, but underneath I think there may be a great car there. Now - don't judge me - but whilst I could never think of modifying my R129, I think a 560 SEC is begging to be subtly lowered, and with either 17" or monoblock 18" AMG wheels. So end state would be that, with the key jobs done, and then some happy wafting.
I've done lots of googling over past 2 weeks to try and get up to speed on the larger jobs, but could use some advice:
- Parcel shelf rot. Whilst the bodywork in general is exceptional (had had new wings quite recently), looking up from inside the boot shows a hole, and lots of rust. How much for a future-proof repair, and does this ever risk an MOT failure if left for a bit?
- Seat belt extenders. Driver's side doesn't work. How much of a pain to resolve?
- Rear looks a little low before started. Stupidly, i didn't check it again after a drive. Am i right in thinking the rear would self level when pressurised? Even if there is an issue - would the typical means of lowering one of these effectively by-pass the SLS anyway?
- Sun roof retracted about 80% of the way back. That normal, or should it go all the way? I know fixing or replacing is a big job....
- How much of a pain is it to fix the rear blind? I can hear the motor, but nothing happens.
Otherwise, starts fine, idles beautifully, stops well (and 4k bill from 2017 where discs and calipers were replaced), everything else electrical works, including heated seats. Air con blows cold, no warning lights, and drives well - although pulls the the right a little under acceleration (tyre pressures looked very low tho,which won't help). If i can get for 6k including a perfect plate, I figure even though i don't plan to sell soon - i couldn't go far wrong. What am i missing?
Hi there. I've owned a few of those and still have 3 in possession . The rust below the window is common. It's a window out job so if possible , get it fixed right. Otherwise epoxy some metal over it and don't think about it.
Check SLS fluid as it may have leaked while sitting and top up in needed. Also check for knocking sounds from the rear which could mean the shocks are going bad.
Timing chain can stretch and cause the plastic guides to break so it's best to replace everything every 100K miles.
Drive the car, .make sure it doesn't run hot and get it on a fast road and brake. If you get the death wobble, you're going to need to rebuild the front end.
There is much more but I have a small phone and fat fingers so you check and we'll tell you how fo fix
Check SLS fluid as it may have leaked while sitting and top up in needed. Also check for knocking sounds from the rear which could mean the shocks are going bad.
Timing chain can stretch and cause the plastic guides to break so it's best to replace everything every 100K miles.
Drive the car, .make sure it doesn't run hot and get it on a fast road and brake. If you get the death wobble, you're going to need to rebuild the front end.
There is much more but I have a small phone and fat fingers so you check and we'll tell you how fo fix
The SLS can be affected by a variety of issues, as mentioned above. In my car’s case the pump internals had sprung a leak and besides failing to rise properly and losing fluid with no sign of a leak, the engine oil was steadily increasing (the pump is driven from the front of a camshaft, and the internal leak drains into the engine). MB still sell the internal seal, although the O rings need to be obtained elsewhere now, but quite easily repaired.
My car had the parcel shelf repaired before I bought it - not sure if the repair panel is still available, but it’s a screen out job to do it properly. I don’t think the sunroof “disappears” completely into the roof, and my car doesn’t have a rear blind.
On the seat butlers, check for corroded connectors but most importantly check, and most likely replace, all the torpedo fuses as they (particularly cheap aluminium ones) corrode and lead to all sorts of issues.
They’re great cars, but are getting on now so issues do arise. Parts availability is reasonably good still, but beware of the “knock on effect” of just replacing Y while you’re in replacing X and so on.
My car had the parcel shelf repaired before I bought it - not sure if the repair panel is still available, but it’s a screen out job to do it properly. I don’t think the sunroof “disappears” completely into the roof, and my car doesn’t have a rear blind.
On the seat butlers, check for corroded connectors but most importantly check, and most likely replace, all the torpedo fuses as they (particularly cheap aluminium ones) corrode and lead to all sorts of issues.
They’re great cars, but are getting on now so issues do arise. Parts availability is reasonably good still, but beware of the “knock on effect” of just replacing Y while you’re in replacing X and so on.
thanks all for advice so far - also got similar input from the MB Club forum.
I think i'd go into this fully expecting to spend 5 grand initially to get it to a reasonable standard. But still gets me 11k for probably 13-15k's worth of car, with a plate worth 2-4k as well.
it's not about the money - having done nothing other than geek out at these over the past few weeks, I now badly want one - but always good for the conscience to have a solid set of manmaths behind a purchase...
I think i'd go into this fully expecting to spend 5 grand initially to get it to a reasonable standard. But still gets me 11k for probably 13-15k's worth of car, with a plate worth 2-4k as well.
it's not about the money - having done nothing other than geek out at these over the past few weeks, I now badly want one - but always good for the conscience to have a solid set of manmaths behind a purchase...
...i did mention the plate was quite cool!
It's off the road at the moment, and I can't quite take proper full ownership as it's an old style V5 which doesn't allow taxing online, and as a probate car there are a few other complexities to work out - but it's to all intents and purposes "mine", and there's a lot work to do and it's going to look veeery cool when finished!
It's off the road at the moment, and I can't quite take proper full ownership as it's an old style V5 which doesn't allow taxing online, and as a probate car there are a few other complexities to work out - but it's to all intents and purposes "mine", and there's a lot work to do and it's going to look veeery cool when finished!
CharlesdeGaulle said:
I'm a middle-aged club member and I really like it. Life's too short not to be a bit irreverent now and again.
Ah thanks, appreciated! Life’s tough enough (especially these days!) not to be a bit silly once in a while.
Have had a ball doing all the research and planning for this (those wheels are one offs, custom built in Turkey); just a project of pure ridiculousness ... and still loads more to do.
cidered77 said:
CharlesdeGaulle said:
I'm a middle-aged club member and I really like it. Life's too short not to be a bit irreverent now and again.
Ah thanks, appreciated! Life’s tough enough (especially these days!) not to be a bit silly once in a while.
Have had a ball doing all the research and planning for this (those wheels are one offs, custom built in Turkey); just a project of pure ridiculousness ... and still loads more to do.
Have you got any pics of it sitting a more normal ride height?
swiveleyedgit said:
That looks great, any more details about the wheels?
They are from TR Custom Wheels, you can find them on Instagram. Bit of a leap of faith paying up front, but whilst they took significantly longer than planned, comms was good. Centres were originals by ARC Alurad , and 16” i think. Then added to a custom split section.
18” diameter; rears are 10” and fronts 9”, with an offset that leads to a perfect fit. Calculating all that ... was complex!
Not cheap .. about 2.6k. But true one offs , and beautiful IMO.
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