R129 SL320 Oil change spec
Discussion
Im going to perform my first servcie on the SL soon.
Trying to find info on the oil spec. Owners book only says use MB approved oil.
Internet search reveals a debate about should you use fully syth, or semi syth oil.
ECP site dosnt offer fully syth as an option for this car, so I'd assume their data base says semi is correct.
Any thoughts ?
Cheers
Trying to find info on the oil spec. Owners book only says use MB approved oil.
Internet search reveals a debate about should you use fully syth, or semi syth oil.
ECP site dosnt offer fully syth as an option for this car, so I'd assume their data base says semi is correct.
Any thoughts ?
Cheers
What does the handbook say? I suspect that it will list a number of appropriate grades.
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.3_en...
If 229.3 is the reqd std then semi-synthetics are listed, incl 10/40. Whether you go for 5/40 or 10/40 is a personal choice and ambient temperatures will be a factor. Do you know what it's been run on up to now, how often changed etc. Sometimes, in my experience, older engines are just as happy, if not better, on 10/40, whereas newer ones will only run on , for example, 0/20, without risking damage to, say, chain tensioners.
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.3_en...
If 229.3 is the reqd std then semi-synthetics are listed, incl 10/40. Whether you go for 5/40 or 10/40 is a personal choice and ambient temperatures will be a factor. Do you know what it's been run on up to now, how often changed etc. Sometimes, in my experience, older engines are just as happy, if not better, on 10/40, whereas newer ones will only run on , for example, 0/20, without risking damage to, say, chain tensioners.
It was looked after by an indie called West4Auto's in Chiswick London for the past 5 years. A germen car specilist.
No info apart from the Invoices only indicate a charge of £45 for the oil, so it wasnt fully synth !
I dont use the car in the winter, I dont thrash the engine and will only do about 2K a year in it.
With that in mind, Im thinking of going with a 10-40 semi synthetic, Castol website indicates Magnetec 10-40 is their oil for the M104 engine.
No info apart from the Invoices only indicate a charge of £45 for the oil, so it wasnt fully synth !
I dont use the car in the winter, I dont thrash the engine and will only do about 2K a year in it.
With that in mind, Im thinking of going with a 10-40 semi synthetic, Castol website indicates Magnetec 10-40 is their oil for the M104 engine.
pcn1 said:
Does anyone know the correct torque setting for the oil filter housing and sump drain plug for my M104 engine ?
Cheers
Is it not stated on the housing? All oil filter housings I have worked on are 25NM.Cheers
Not sure about the sump. Maybe tighten until it nips then another quarter turn. Use a new copper washer.
You can get bogged down in a lot of nonsense here. The best thing you can do for your engine is to change the oil and filter frequently. If yours is the M104 engine, any respectable 10W 40 semi-synthetic or better will do. If you use a basic oil and change it and the filter every 5,000 miles you will do your engine much more good than using some super-dooper, highfalutin', high cost stuff every 10,000 miles. Oil filter housing should be tight ish. Likewise sump plug. 25Nm and 35Nm respectively but again, you're getting bogged down in nonsense. Tightish then check for leaks when you're finished.
I agree with R129SL.
The problem is some people can get quite agitated when oil specs are discussed so I just let them get on with it and do what I think is best for my own cars but always change the oil frequently, generally far more often than recommended.
You'll get people saying that filters work better after they've been in use for 'x,000 miles', oil is better when partially contaminated etc etc., only Castrol/Mobil/Fuchs/Millers/Valvoline etc are any good etc etc. I don't buy into any of that but if individuals do, then that's fine by me. Providing 10/40 is a listed suitable grade for your engine (and the oil meets the spec set out by the manuacturer), which I suspect it is, then that's fine. If you're regularly doing track days or absolutely thrash it, you might want to review it but for normal use, fine.
The problem with so many different specs/grades is that you can end up with loads of oil in the garage; without counting I probably have 100 litres of the stuff sitting there for different cars.
The problem is some people can get quite agitated when oil specs are discussed so I just let them get on with it and do what I think is best for my own cars but always change the oil frequently, generally far more often than recommended.
You'll get people saying that filters work better after they've been in use for 'x,000 miles', oil is better when partially contaminated etc etc., only Castrol/Mobil/Fuchs/Millers/Valvoline etc are any good etc etc. I don't buy into any of that but if individuals do, then that's fine by me. Providing 10/40 is a listed suitable grade for your engine (and the oil meets the spec set out by the manuacturer), which I suspect it is, then that's fine. If you're regularly doing track days or absolutely thrash it, you might want to review it but for normal use, fine.
The problem with so many different specs/grades is that you can end up with loads of oil in the garage; without counting I probably have 100 litres of the stuff sitting there for different cars.
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