E320CDi W/S211 2007 7G Auto Vibration in P, R and N
Discussion
Hi Team,
Happy weekend. Got my E320 CDI estate in September to replace a lease BMW 320d M sport saloon auto which I loved. Was bought to save on monthly payments and so far that's be the case and hoping it will continue to be!
The car is 2 owner, first bought new from MB had it 8 years, wealthy owner so FSH with MB until he sold it to the dealer I bought it from. Dealer sold it to a gentleman farmer who after a few years traded it back into dealer for another of his cars. No service history with that owner so can only assume he did it himself. I notice in service book it had a transmission oil change at about 40k miles and not sure if was repeated.
It drives well, looks good, very practical etc, not as economical as I hoped, averaging about 30-35mpg.
Anyway a couple of issues with it but the main one is a serious vibration when idling in P or N and worst in R. When drive is selected it is fine (or much less noticeable. Also if you give it a few revs it eliminates it completely. I mean at idle it's doing 750Rpm (sometimes 800-850) but if you raise the revs from 750 to even 800 or 900 it stops vibrating.
Driving is fine, seem to change up and down the gears smoothly enough. Only blips would be when driving slowly and the car is cold it can kinda shunt when I think it's going 2nd to 1st but doesn't always happen.
Also occasionally when booting it from low speed (like overtaking a tractor) it kinda stutters and I have to lift off and feed the throttle in more progressively.
I don't think it's the engine mounts as when I rev the engine in any P, R, N or D it doesn't lurch.
Any ideas what it might be? Engine is very clean although have noticed a bit of diesel on the top of the fuel filter recently. Hopefully nothing serious and just a gearbox mount but would have thought it would vibrate all the time in all gears.
Cheers.
Happy weekend. Got my E320 CDI estate in September to replace a lease BMW 320d M sport saloon auto which I loved. Was bought to save on monthly payments and so far that's be the case and hoping it will continue to be!
The car is 2 owner, first bought new from MB had it 8 years, wealthy owner so FSH with MB until he sold it to the dealer I bought it from. Dealer sold it to a gentleman farmer who after a few years traded it back into dealer for another of his cars. No service history with that owner so can only assume he did it himself. I notice in service book it had a transmission oil change at about 40k miles and not sure if was repeated.
It drives well, looks good, very practical etc, not as economical as I hoped, averaging about 30-35mpg.
Anyway a couple of issues with it but the main one is a serious vibration when idling in P or N and worst in R. When drive is selected it is fine (or much less noticeable. Also if you give it a few revs it eliminates it completely. I mean at idle it's doing 750Rpm (sometimes 800-850) but if you raise the revs from 750 to even 800 or 900 it stops vibrating.
Driving is fine, seem to change up and down the gears smoothly enough. Only blips would be when driving slowly and the car is cold it can kinda shunt when I think it's going 2nd to 1st but doesn't always happen.
Also occasionally when booting it from low speed (like overtaking a tractor) it kinda stutters and I have to lift off and feed the throttle in more progressively.
I don't think it's the engine mounts as when I rev the engine in any P, R, N or D it doesn't lurch.
Any ideas what it might be? Engine is very clean although have noticed a bit of diesel on the top of the fuel filter recently. Hopefully nothing serious and just a gearbox mount but would have thought it would vibrate all the time in all gears.
Cheers.
We have an 09 model of the same car. It started rumbling and groaning, with vibration evident in the car, especially manoeuvring in reverse but also at low speed in drive - new Lemförder engine and transmission mounts completely cured it, and also made it a lot quieter and smoother on the move at normal road speed.
At its last service leaking fuel pipes to and from the fuel filter were flagged up, with diesel sitting on top of the filter - a fairly easy job with new MB hoses, which are shaped to fit.
The stuttering could be the turbo actuator (we had severe stuttering on a similarly engined CLS which was cured with a new turbo) but on the E it was an exhaust back pressure sensor which was an easy and pretty inexpensive (c £100) swap.
It’s never been that economical, and the gearbox sometimes makes a lumpy hash of the 1/2 shift, despite new fluid every 35k miles (it’s on 134k), but it’s a pleasant thing.
At its last service leaking fuel pipes to and from the fuel filter were flagged up, with diesel sitting on top of the filter - a fairly easy job with new MB hoses, which are shaped to fit.
The stuttering could be the turbo actuator (we had severe stuttering on a similarly engined CLS which was cured with a new turbo) but on the E it was an exhaust back pressure sensor which was an easy and pretty inexpensive (c £100) swap.
It’s never been that economical, and the gearbox sometimes makes a lumpy hash of the 1/2 shift, despite new fluid every 35k miles (it’s on 134k), but it’s a pleasant thing.
Edited by Stegel on Friday 25th January 23:25
Thanks for reply Stegel. It’s good to hear from someone that has overcome these issues.
As yourself I like the car although I wouldn’t say I love it yet but it’s getting there. It’s a pretty clean tidy car but it’s needed a little bit of cleaning and perishables replacing. Quite enjoyable getting it up to scratch, I’m getting a sense of pride and bonding which is familiar to PH guys.
Bought it waft about in and save the monthly outgoings from the BMW to pay for fun things like my SL55 and SL320 upkeep!
I like the fact I own it and although she’s not a sporty driver she’s quick enough and reasonably cushy, although I’m disappointed how crashy the suspension can be at lower speeds. Car had 123k and in past 4 months I’ve done 6000 miles! I do too much arsing about!
I’ll get it left into the Indy at some point to get those things looked at. MOT is 20 Feb, being NI this is done in government test centre not the garage so I’d like it to be driving well for the examiner.
The dealer told me he’d got the turbo actuator fixed/replaced by the Indy he uses although no paperwork for it. Also before pickup the tailgate locking mechanism failed so same Indy fixed it, again no paperwork. Last Saturday I replaced a broken front fog light and been repeatedly trying to get the rear wiper working. WD40 fix isn’t shifting it.
Anyway I’m not a mechanic so I’ll get it left in sometime as it also needs an oil n filter change. No idea when last done but dash indicator says I’ve 20k miles to go or something which I assume was reset at sale time. Dealer suggested on leaving I get it done:-)
Whilst at it fuel filter can be replaced.
Worth getting the transmission oil changed? Anything else suggested to keep her sweet?
Cheers.
Ps sorry for the long winded replies it’s just the way I am LOL David
As yourself I like the car although I wouldn’t say I love it yet but it’s getting there. It’s a pretty clean tidy car but it’s needed a little bit of cleaning and perishables replacing. Quite enjoyable getting it up to scratch, I’m getting a sense of pride and bonding which is familiar to PH guys.
Bought it waft about in and save the monthly outgoings from the BMW to pay for fun things like my SL55 and SL320 upkeep!
I like the fact I own it and although she’s not a sporty driver she’s quick enough and reasonably cushy, although I’m disappointed how crashy the suspension can be at lower speeds. Car had 123k and in past 4 months I’ve done 6000 miles! I do too much arsing about!
I’ll get it left into the Indy at some point to get those things looked at. MOT is 20 Feb, being NI this is done in government test centre not the garage so I’d like it to be driving well for the examiner.
The dealer told me he’d got the turbo actuator fixed/replaced by the Indy he uses although no paperwork for it. Also before pickup the tailgate locking mechanism failed so same Indy fixed it, again no paperwork. Last Saturday I replaced a broken front fog light and been repeatedly trying to get the rear wiper working. WD40 fix isn’t shifting it.
Anyway I’m not a mechanic so I’ll get it left in sometime as it also needs an oil n filter change. No idea when last done but dash indicator says I’ve 20k miles to go or something which I assume was reset at sale time. Dealer suggested on leaving I get it done:-)
Whilst at it fuel filter can be replaced.
Worth getting the transmission oil changed? Anything else suggested to keep her sweet?
Cheers.
Ps sorry for the long winded replies it’s just the way I am LOL David
Indeed, the clunky 1/2 change is a standard feature!
An 07 is on the cusp between 15k service intervals and 15k or 12 months whichever comes first regime, but I wouldn’t let it go 20k between oil changes. The boot latch mechanism dying is a known issue. I would certainly get the transmission fluid and filter changed - it’s not an MB recommendation, as they advocate a single change at 35k IIRC, but I’ve noted a difference each time it’s done, and it can’t be right to leave the fluid untouched for the remaining life of the car; make sure they use the correct fluid, and it’s a bit more complicated than on older MBs as the fluid is pumped in from below.
If the turbo actuator has indeed been replaced, then the pressure sensor could be the problem - but they hate dawdling, and as my wife potters about in it it needs a tank of Shell Nitro and an Italian tune up now and again, with some jerking and clouds of smoke indicating it’s clearing out the coke and cobwebs, and is then far more happy.
Agreed on the crashy ride - although I’m just on a coffee break from swapping the rear air springs and rear dampers, and the dampers are the most tired (dead, really) I’ve ever seen, taking a minute to return to normal when pressed down, so I’ve got great hopes of an improvement in ride quality when that’s done. I’ve changed the diff oil while I’m underneath it, with the old oil coming out opaque and brown, and while I doubt I will note any difference, it feels good changing it!
They eat front suspension parts, but I rebuilt the entirety of that 2 years ago, with new dampers, during a broken spring repair, which again is not rare.
An 07 is on the cusp between 15k service intervals and 15k or 12 months whichever comes first regime, but I wouldn’t let it go 20k between oil changes. The boot latch mechanism dying is a known issue. I would certainly get the transmission fluid and filter changed - it’s not an MB recommendation, as they advocate a single change at 35k IIRC, but I’ve noted a difference each time it’s done, and it can’t be right to leave the fluid untouched for the remaining life of the car; make sure they use the correct fluid, and it’s a bit more complicated than on older MBs as the fluid is pumped in from below.
If the turbo actuator has indeed been replaced, then the pressure sensor could be the problem - but they hate dawdling, and as my wife potters about in it it needs a tank of Shell Nitro and an Italian tune up now and again, with some jerking and clouds of smoke indicating it’s clearing out the coke and cobwebs, and is then far more happy.
Agreed on the crashy ride - although I’m just on a coffee break from swapping the rear air springs and rear dampers, and the dampers are the most tired (dead, really) I’ve ever seen, taking a minute to return to normal when pressed down, so I’ve got great hopes of an improvement in ride quality when that’s done. I’ve changed the diff oil while I’m underneath it, with the old oil coming out opaque and brown, and while I doubt I will note any difference, it feels good changing it!
They eat front suspension parts, but I rebuilt the entirety of that 2 years ago, with new dampers, during a broken spring repair, which again is not rare.
Edited by Stegel on Saturday 26th January 13:02
Thanks everyone for the replies and I feel somewhat more reassured it's nothing too serious (I hope). Stegel it's a pity you're not close or I'd be bunging you a few quid to do some TLC on my wagon.
Yeah I know what you mean about giving it a blow out. I noticed in the first test drive it left a cloud of black soot in my wake, much better thereafter. We don't have Shell stations here (I think) so I've used the BP performance diesel and fuel system treatments, with a good drive it does seem to free things up.
Thanks for the advice and I'll get her looked at by the Indy sooner rather than later. Get the engine and gearbox mounts done and the fluid and filter changes.
Happy motoring!
Yeah I know what you mean about giving it a blow out. I noticed in the first test drive it left a cloud of black soot in my wake, much better thereafter. We don't have Shell stations here (I think) so I've used the BP performance diesel and fuel system treatments, with a good drive it does seem to free things up.
Thanks for the advice and I'll get her looked at by the Indy sooner rather than later. Get the engine and gearbox mounts done and the fluid and filter changes.
Happy motoring!
I had a 2004 E320cdi estate. Mine was the last of the straight 6 3.2s before they went to V6 3.0. Mine also was only the 5 stage auto. However it did for a long time have the same juddering symptoms as yours. I always thought it was engine related as putting the expensive diesel seemed to make it better. Turns out it was low on transmission fluid... a fluid and filter change solved it.
It is not an uncommon problem and not always solved with fluid and filter change. What is not uncommon is leakage between the transmission cooler and radiator allowing water to contaminate the transmission fluid. This is because the transmission cooler is built in to the radiator. This unfortunately is much more serious as I believe the only solution is a new transmission and a new radiator/transmission cooler.
Good Luck!
It is not an uncommon problem and not always solved with fluid and filter change. What is not uncommon is leakage between the transmission cooler and radiator allowing water to contaminate the transmission fluid. This is because the transmission cooler is built in to the radiator. This unfortunately is much more serious as I believe the only solution is a new transmission and a new radiator/transmission cooler.
Good Luck!
von Radar said:
I had a 2004 E320cdi estate. Mine was the last of the straight 6 3.2s before they went to V6 3.0. Mine also was only the 5 stage auto. However it did for a long time have the same juddering symptoms as yours. I always thought it was engine related as putting the expensive diesel seemed to make it better. Turns out it was low on transmission fluid... a fluid and filter change solved it.
It is not an uncommon problem and not always solved with fluid and filter change. What is not uncommon is leakage between the transmission cooler and radiator allowing water to contaminate the transmission fluid. This is because the transmission cooler is built in to the radiator. This unfortunately is much more serious as I believe the only solution is a new transmission and a new radiator/transmission cooler.
Good Luck!
Fortunately (I had to check though) that issue only affected 5 speed cars. Low fluid is an issue regardless, and with the 7 speed box there’s no way of checking without either draining it all out or trying to overfill and let it overflow - doesn’t sound like progress, does it?!It is not an uncommon problem and not always solved with fluid and filter change. What is not uncommon is leakage between the transmission cooler and radiator allowing water to contaminate the transmission fluid. This is because the transmission cooler is built in to the radiator. This unfortunately is much more serious as I believe the only solution is a new transmission and a new radiator/transmission cooler.
Good Luck!
I’ve had my 2006 E320Cdi Estate, facelift model from new. Now at 214,000 miles
I’ve had:
New Turbo at 160k,
Engine mounts at about 180k,
New suspension springs, dampers and rear air shocks at 200k
New gearbox mount at 214k,
Inlet Port shut off motor at 214k
It eats ball joints and various other front suspension parts.
I’m hoping that as its had so much stuff done in last 50k miles that I can get it to about 300k before its finished.
It does 30mpg in town and 45 on a gentle motorway cruise.
Take it to a Mercedes Indie and get it on the Star diagnostics machine. Mine did the stuttering thing and first time it needed a new turbo (so they said - still not sure!) and the second time was the turbo actuator which I had repaired for about £150.
I had similar vibrations before I replaced the engine / gearbox mounts.
I’ve had:
New Turbo at 160k,
Engine mounts at about 180k,
New suspension springs, dampers and rear air shocks at 200k
New gearbox mount at 214k,
Inlet Port shut off motor at 214k
It eats ball joints and various other front suspension parts.
I’m hoping that as its had so much stuff done in last 50k miles that I can get it to about 300k before its finished.
It does 30mpg in town and 45 on a gentle motorway cruise.
Take it to a Mercedes Indie and get it on the Star diagnostics machine. Mine did the stuttering thing and first time it needed a new turbo (so they said - still not sure!) and the second time was the turbo actuator which I had repaired for about £150.
I had similar vibrations before I replaced the engine / gearbox mounts.
I really appreciate everyone’s insight into my car’s issues. Interesting Albondi you’ve had yours from new so it’s interesting to read what you’ve had to maintain.
Mine is approaching 130k so I’m hoping mine holds out as well as yours.
Out in it today and was sounding really sweet. Kick down from standstill was seamless and acceleration on the move was sweet. I’ve run a few doses of fuel system cleaner through her since getting it September. Put an ‘advanced’ one in couple weeks ago so maybe that’s helped the acceleration issue.
The vibration in park etc didn’t seem as bad today either but new mounts will hopefully cure it.
I’m hoping to keep the car long term so keeping on top of maintenance will be key to that. It’s a great car and I plan to do a few road trips in it, camp in the boot (it’s an estate) and chuck bikes etc into it.
There was a Bentley Bentayga it the pump in front of me today. Lovely car etc and wouldn’t mind one hahaha. However I couldn’t help thinking at 30-40 times the cost of my car it wouldn’t be as practical for what I need. The champagne fridge would mean the backseats couldn’t be dropped. I suppose we could sleep in the first class recliner back seats instead hahaha.
I’d also feel stupid for paying £150-300k for a tarted up VW Touareg at £50k. Although I’d rather have a few years old full fat Range Rover than either.
Anyway I digress. Happy motoring folks.
Mine is approaching 130k so I’m hoping mine holds out as well as yours.
Out in it today and was sounding really sweet. Kick down from standstill was seamless and acceleration on the move was sweet. I’ve run a few doses of fuel system cleaner through her since getting it September. Put an ‘advanced’ one in couple weeks ago so maybe that’s helped the acceleration issue.
The vibration in park etc didn’t seem as bad today either but new mounts will hopefully cure it.
I’m hoping to keep the car long term so keeping on top of maintenance will be key to that. It’s a great car and I plan to do a few road trips in it, camp in the boot (it’s an estate) and chuck bikes etc into it.
There was a Bentley Bentayga it the pump in front of me today. Lovely car etc and wouldn’t mind one hahaha. However I couldn’t help thinking at 30-40 times the cost of my car it wouldn’t be as practical for what I need. The champagne fridge would mean the backseats couldn’t be dropped. I suppose we could sleep in the first class recliner back seats instead hahaha.
I’d also feel stupid for paying £150-300k for a tarted up VW Touareg at £50k. Although I’d rather have a few years old full fat Range Rover than either.
Anyway I digress. Happy motoring folks.
Happy weekend everyone. I thought I’d update my thread once I’d something to say.
Read over the posts and noticed I’d forget to say my E320cdi is a 2007 with the OM642 3.0 V6 TD with the 7g auto. Just clarifying.
Ok so MOT was mid Feb, in NI it’s government testing centres not garages. Car looked great up on the lift, pretty clean, no rust or damage. I got compliments for another owner who fancies one. Anyway I was dreading it failing but was growing in confidence.
It failed! Although I was quite happy.
Only failed on minor track arm tie rod thing. No advisories and examiners said it was a good car.
Got it left into Indy to gelt that fixed plus -
Oil n filter change
Fuel filter and hoses change
Check gearbox oil and if needed replace oil and filter
Replace engine and gearbox mounts
Check turbo etc for the stuttering etc
So all above done except mounts as they got wrong ones. Turbo etc was fine, clean etc but they replaced the orange turbo seals as they were rotten/misfitting etc.
Car retested (just to check the item that failed) not full MOT, tester said ‘don’t make them like this anymore mate, last of the true Mercs’. I was aye I know mate LOL. Oh it passed!
So car in yesterday to get mounts and also some LED taillight fix as they revert to backup on starting. Although taillights came without bulbs but I drive past daily and they’ll fit them as I wait.
So how’s she driving. Wow like a dream. Almost imperceptible startup. Revving doesn’t transmit to chassis. Engine and gearbox so much smoother and quieter.
The stuttering seems to be gone, give her the shoe and she flies. No smoke either. They do need a blow out from time to time.
New wipers are silent and effective. Indy said she was a good motor and last of the good E classes, better than w212 I’d what I concluded.
So I bought the car to replace 2015 BMW 320d saloon on PCP to save money and being an estate to serve as a practical lifestyle wagon for trips and pursuits. How’s it working out?
Well I’ve had car 6 months today, driven 8000 miles now at 131k. Average mpg is 30ish about 40 on longer run which is the main disappointment, 320d was about 50-55 but smaller engine, stop/start etc.
Engine in Merc is fab, so smooth, powerful, quiet yet lovely v6 roar when poked. Next oil/filter change I’ll do myself I think.
Not a pick of rust, scratch or dent on her so she looks great for her age. Kinda like Joanna Lumley.
It’s high specced although I’d love dynamic seats.
The PCP payments I’ve put into savings so it’s paid for the car, dealer wanted 4500 settled on 3750, maintenance has been £700. So what I’ve saved has covered it and I own it! That’s a good feeling.
Plans for summer are to throw mattress into her to camp the odd night. Get couple bikes for us to explore, camping gear etc. Head west coast of Ireland or Scottish highlands. I’ve stayed in swanky hotels but kinda fancy going back to nature.
Sorry for the word dump. It’s just the way I roll and love reading others long blurbs.
Enjoy your weekend, thanks for all the advice and happy motoring.
Read over the posts and noticed I’d forget to say my E320cdi is a 2007 with the OM642 3.0 V6 TD with the 7g auto. Just clarifying.
Ok so MOT was mid Feb, in NI it’s government testing centres not garages. Car looked great up on the lift, pretty clean, no rust or damage. I got compliments for another owner who fancies one. Anyway I was dreading it failing but was growing in confidence.
It failed! Although I was quite happy.
Only failed on minor track arm tie rod thing. No advisories and examiners said it was a good car.
Got it left into Indy to gelt that fixed plus -
Oil n filter change
Fuel filter and hoses change
Check gearbox oil and if needed replace oil and filter
Replace engine and gearbox mounts
Check turbo etc for the stuttering etc
So all above done except mounts as they got wrong ones. Turbo etc was fine, clean etc but they replaced the orange turbo seals as they were rotten/misfitting etc.
Car retested (just to check the item that failed) not full MOT, tester said ‘don’t make them like this anymore mate, last of the true Mercs’. I was aye I know mate LOL. Oh it passed!
So car in yesterday to get mounts and also some LED taillight fix as they revert to backup on starting. Although taillights came without bulbs but I drive past daily and they’ll fit them as I wait.
So how’s she driving. Wow like a dream. Almost imperceptible startup. Revving doesn’t transmit to chassis. Engine and gearbox so much smoother and quieter.
The stuttering seems to be gone, give her the shoe and she flies. No smoke either. They do need a blow out from time to time.
New wipers are silent and effective. Indy said she was a good motor and last of the good E classes, better than w212 I’d what I concluded.
So I bought the car to replace 2015 BMW 320d saloon on PCP to save money and being an estate to serve as a practical lifestyle wagon for trips and pursuits. How’s it working out?
Well I’ve had car 6 months today, driven 8000 miles now at 131k. Average mpg is 30ish about 40 on longer run which is the main disappointment, 320d was about 50-55 but smaller engine, stop/start etc.
Engine in Merc is fab, so smooth, powerful, quiet yet lovely v6 roar when poked. Next oil/filter change I’ll do myself I think.
Not a pick of rust, scratch or dent on her so she looks great for her age. Kinda like Joanna Lumley.
It’s high specced although I’d love dynamic seats.
The PCP payments I’ve put into savings so it’s paid for the car, dealer wanted 4500 settled on 3750, maintenance has been £700. So what I’ve saved has covered it and I own it! That’s a good feeling.
Plans for summer are to throw mattress into her to camp the odd night. Get couple bikes for us to explore, camping gear etc. Head west coast of Ireland or Scottish highlands. I’ve stayed in swanky hotels but kinda fancy going back to nature.
Sorry for the word dump. It’s just the way I roll and love reading others long blurbs.
Enjoy your weekend, thanks for all the advice and happy motoring.
Oh forgot to say Indy said front ball joints would need doing by end of year, front discs when the pads expire, nothing else. Rear wiper needs replaced but not urgent.
One rear tyre wearing on inside edge. I’ll probably replace both. Previous owner put on Yokohama Bluearth tyres, never heard of them before but they get good reviews, especially wet grip. Was surprised st that as I think the rear has let go on me couple times on damp.
Any other tyre recommendations for estate. Size 245/45R17 99W thanks.
One rear tyre wearing on inside edge. I’ll probably replace both. Previous owner put on Yokohama Bluearth tyres, never heard of them before but they get good reviews, especially wet grip. Was surprised st that as I think the rear has let go on me couple times on damp.
Any other tyre recommendations for estate. Size 245/45R17 99W thanks.
Thanks for the update and really pleased it’s all going well. The mounts are the most benefit per £ I’ve ever had on a car, I couldn’t believe the difference they made.
I’ve just changed tyres on our car, and now the rear springs and dampers have been done (the dampers made a massive difference to the ride quality) I’ll get a 4 wheel alignment done as it too wears the rear tyres unevenly. 211s chew their front tyres inside edges too, but I fitted some MB camber correction bolts to the front end when I rebuilt it, and it’s massively increased tyre life and it now wears away the fronts totally evenly.
I’ve just changed tyres on our car, and now the rear springs and dampers have been done (the dampers made a massive difference to the ride quality) I’ll get a 4 wheel alignment done as it too wears the rear tyres unevenly. 211s chew their front tyres inside edges too, but I fitted some MB camber correction bolts to the front end when I rebuilt it, and it’s massively increased tyre life and it now wears away the fronts totally evenly.
I would echo Stegel's remarks re. the adjustable camber bolts. My indy fitted them (2 at the front, 1 on the rear) to my W220 when it was in for a suspension refresh. I couldn't believe the difference to the way it drove afterwards, the car feels absolutely planted now at any speed, my man said the adjustable bolts make all the difference to getting the alignment spot on, and he wasn't wrong.
I must ask the Indy about that when the time comes to replace the ball joints and discs.
Forget to mention in the service list that both air filters were replaced, coolant and screen wash topped up.
Ok so back to tyres. I might just replace the Bluearth with the same as they do get good reviews and good but cheaper than Cross Climate which seems popular.
Especially good in the wear tests. My pref I think would be for wet grip as snow is a rarity.
Anyone any experience of a particular tyre they loved?
Forget to mention in the service list that both air filters were replaced, coolant and screen wash topped up.
Ok so back to tyres. I might just replace the Bluearth with the same as they do get good reviews and good but cheaper than Cross Climate which seems popular.
Especially good in the wear tests. My pref I think would be for wet grip as snow is a rarity.
Anyone any experience of a particular tyre they loved?
You got a lot of work done on the car for £700! Mine (2005 C270CDi estate) seems to get a bill like that every time it goes near my indie.
Re tyres: I put All Seasons on the car some years ago - couldn't get the same tyres for the front and rear staggered set up so I ended up with Kumho KH21's on the rear and Vredestein Quatrac 3's on the front. I don't use the car much and even then it's usually long steady motorway runs, but the tyres are quiet and comfortable and haven't given me a moments concern and the rears look like they'll last longer than the Michelin Primacy's which were on before.
Re tyres: I put All Seasons on the car some years ago - couldn't get the same tyres for the front and rear staggered set up so I ended up with Kumho KH21's on the rear and Vredestein Quatrac 3's on the front. I don't use the car much and even then it's usually long steady motorway runs, but the tyres are quiet and comfortable and haven't given me a moments concern and the rears look like they'll last longer than the Michelin Primacy's which were on before.
Thanks Sheepshanks, love your username hahahaha.
I was expecting the works to cost more and glad it didn't.
Breakdown of costs is
8ltrs oil £60
Oil filter 9
Twin air filters 32
Fuel filter 16
Gearbox filter 22
4.5 Lt ATF fluid 48
Turbo seals 25
OSF track rod end 22
Screenwash and antifreeze top up 4
Labour 110
2nd visit
2 Lemforder engine mounts 140
Gearbox mount 35
Labour 60
Plus VAT = £699.40
Not sure how that compares elsewhere but maybe being Belfast it's cheaper than London for example.
I mean I'm not a mechanic so I feel it's worth paying a pro to do it right and quickly so I can use my time better. I don't have most of the tools or lifts anyway for example. There's some new hoses etc fitted not listed.
I fitted a driver's side fig light as it go smashed. Saw a YouTube video was easy although in video there's 2 pairs of hands doing it. I couldn't get the innermost screw in as it was out of reach, via wheel arch so whilst they had the undertrays off they fitted it.
In fact looks like they reseated it properly too.
I was pleased. I do put plenty of work through them in the shape of my SL55 so it's good we get on.
I was expecting the works to cost more and glad it didn't.
Breakdown of costs is
8ltrs oil £60
Oil filter 9
Twin air filters 32
Fuel filter 16
Gearbox filter 22
4.5 Lt ATF fluid 48
Turbo seals 25
OSF track rod end 22
Screenwash and antifreeze top up 4
Labour 110
2nd visit
2 Lemforder engine mounts 140
Gearbox mount 35
Labour 60
Plus VAT = £699.40
Not sure how that compares elsewhere but maybe being Belfast it's cheaper than London for example.
I mean I'm not a mechanic so I feel it's worth paying a pro to do it right and quickly so I can use my time better. I don't have most of the tools or lifts anyway for example. There's some new hoses etc fitted not listed.
I fitted a driver's side fig light as it go smashed. Saw a YouTube video was easy although in video there's 2 pairs of hands doing it. I couldn't get the innermost screw in as it was out of reach, via wheel arch so whilst they had the undertrays off they fitted it.
In fact looks like they reseated it properly too.
I was pleased. I do put plenty of work through them in the shape of my SL55 so it's good we get on.
I'm happy with the work my guy does but he seems to work to main dealer standard without making adjustments for the car's age and value - he'll only use genuine parts and he charges the book job times. I recently had a broken front spring after having the dealer replace both 4 yrs ago. He wouldn't hear of only changing one of them - MB say it's OK to do one up to 6yrs.
I'm sure he said 2hrs 40 for the engine / gearbox mounts too - although to be fair he advised against changing them as there's nothing obviously wrong.
He charges £60+VAT per hour.
I'm sure he said 2hrs 40 for the engine / gearbox mounts too - although to be fair he advised against changing them as there's nothing obviously wrong.
He charges £60+VAT per hour.
Only ever had a spring fitted to the SL320 I think was £30 plus fitting so I think about £50. I'd need to check paperwork though as was few years ago.
I don't know what their labour rate is but based on calculations from bills seems less than £60 per hour. Maybe 30/40.
Always flat out busy too and there's plenty of other Merc Indy's around NI. Not sure if that means we in NI like Mercedes and like to keep them going or they're high maintenance millstones that we have to take to Indy's to keep them moving.
I also notice as I drive past daily more and more cars from Republic of Ireland. Probably always was cheaper to get work done this side of border but coupled with stronger Euro it's very worthwhile. Roadtrip, car fixed, overnight break etc etc.
I don't know what their labour rate is but based on calculations from bills seems less than £60 per hour. Maybe 30/40.
Always flat out busy too and there's plenty of other Merc Indy's around NI. Not sure if that means we in NI like Mercedes and like to keep them going or they're high maintenance millstones that we have to take to Indy's to keep them moving.
I also notice as I drive past daily more and more cars from Republic of Ireland. Probably always was cheaper to get work done this side of border but coupled with stronger Euro it's very worthwhile. Roadtrip, car fixed, overnight break etc etc.
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