Mercedes E Class servicing
Discussion
The E Coupe and Cab are based upon the C Class platform and aren't as big.
Saloon in full bodied E Class.
Servicing on a 2010 model is annually or c15K, whichever comes sooner.
Servicing is rotated as minor or major, depending on what the vehicle requires - there is a schedule you can find on the MB Website, in the Service section as I recall.
Saloon in full bodied E Class.
Servicing on a 2010 model is annually or c15K, whichever comes sooner.
Servicing is rotated as minor or major, depending on what the vehicle requires - there is a schedule you can find on the MB Website, in the Service section as I recall.
Edited by developer215 on Thursday 7th November 08:37
Zulu 10 said:
The service regime is 15,500 miles or 12 months, and alternates between an 'A' and 'B' service which will cost roughly £200 and £400 respectively.
That price however doesn't cover the 'additionals' for example a change of transmission fluid at 37,500 miles (yes I know that isn't an integer multiple of 15,500....) which will add £300 to the bill.
Similarly changes of brake fluid, coolant etc
If you do buy an E Class then I'd recommend that you ignore the main dealers and find a good independent who doesn't expect you to subsidise the cost of annual changes to manufacturer specified branding, marble flooring, pot plants and a bimbette on reception - there are plenty around....
Can't you take out service plans? Do they help?That price however doesn't cover the 'additionals' for example a change of transmission fluid at 37,500 miles (yes I know that isn't an integer multiple of 15,500....) which will add £300 to the bill.
Similarly changes of brake fluid, coolant etc
If you do buy an E Class then I'd recommend that you ignore the main dealers and find a good independent who doesn't expect you to subsidise the cost of annual changes to manufacturer specified branding, marble flooring, pot plants and a bimbette on reception - there are plenty around....
Gents I don't want this to turn into a main dealer vs Indy debate, I always stick to the main dealer for used car warranty purposes and I believe this needs servicing at main dealer.
I actually don't mind spending a bit more and getting my car serviced at a main dealer, just curious whey the costs are.
I actually don't mind spending a bit more and getting my car serviced at a main dealer, just curious whey the costs are.
Zulu 10 said:
REALIST123 said:
Can't you take out service plans? Do they help?
It seems to me that a service plan is simply a subtle way of locking you into their justifiably over-priced service regime. The bottom line is that the dealer has to recover the cost of having a bright sparkling showroom in a prime location, and filled with whatever décor, IT equipment, furniture, tooling etc that the importer or manufacturer decrees.
Not only that but it will be replaced every year or two.
An independent is likely to be in a less salubrious location, have décor to their own taste, changed very occasionally and answer their own ‘phones.
That’s the reason why a main dealer charges £110 or more per hour, whereas an independent can make a decent profit when only charging £60 or £70.
Yes, the main dealer will probably offer a discount on parts and labour when you buy into a service plan, but it won’t be a thirty or forty percent discount – they’re not registered charities and can’t afford it.
Personally I’d rather have the ‘phone answered by a bloke who knows what a torque converter is, than a frightfully well spoken bimbette, but your preference may vary….
There’s no right or wrong, much as the manufacturer or importer would like there to be.
Our Z4 (22k in almost 6 years) has similarly been in every two years to a main dealer. Again, total service costs so far <£500 so not an issue.
My 997 (also 6 yo and about 22k) has been serviced by an independent annually since it came out of warranty but mainly because I haven't too much faith in ability of the OPCs nor the integrity of the 997, which is why it gets far more attention than may be necessary from someone I trust.
I'm thinking of changing the VW for a CLS or an E Class, which is why this thread interests me. Of course while the service cost is important, the quality/honesty of servicing from the main dealer is also. I had a loaded 190E 2.6 in the early 90s, the worst car I ever had and wasn't impressed by the dealers back then. I swore I would never had another but I wonder if things have got any better?
Do they still change brake discs every other set of pads?
Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 7th November 13:27
REALIST123 said:
I agree, but there are both ends of the spectrum, I guess. The question is whether the issues lie worn the dealer or the manufacturer's imposed regimes.
True but the manufacturers imposed regimes would apply to indies or main dealers no? The question is the quality of technician/service you get?
AlexH997 said:
REALIST123 said:
I agree, but there are both ends of the spectrum, I guess. The question is whether the issues lie with the dealer or the manufacturer's imposed regimes.
True but the manufacturers imposed regimes would apply to indies or main dealers no? The question is the quality of technician/service you get?
I know these things will be taken off the bill if one objects but it just shows a bill padding nature to me and breeds distrust.
You make a good point about technicians, and Ive always found it easier to know who that is with an indie, rather than a main dealer. It may not matter but they're not all the same, so it can be important.
Anyway, what do you reckon? Are you going to go for the E Class? Have you driven them yet?
I have always found main dealers open to negotiation on service costs
Our ML has done 30k now and has had 2 services at an MB main dealer. It could not have been serviced for less at either of the two Indies I checked for prices
Moreover, that doesn't take account of someone coming out here to collect / return it and leave us a shiny new E for the day whilst the service work was being carried out.
Sure, if you take the first price they give, you may find your leg has been lifted, but why not negotiate with a reputable Indy price as the target?
Our ML has done 30k now and has had 2 services at an MB main dealer. It could not have been serviced for less at either of the two Indies I checked for prices
Moreover, that doesn't take account of someone coming out here to collect / return it and leave us a shiny new E for the day whilst the service work was being carried out.
Sure, if you take the first price they give, you may find your leg has been lifted, but why not negotiate with a reputable Indy price as the target?
Zulu 10 said:
I understand your concern about thread drift, but you asked for prices, which I what I attempted to provide – together with an indication of where there is a decent amount to be saved. I’m not, by the way, suggesting that you should deviate from manufacturer’s parts; simply on the labour rate for fitting them.
dude I wasn't have a pop, just didn't want to start a thread war. Both have pro's/con's depends what you want as a serviceThe other thing to consider when going indy is the hit you take on the said car when you sell it.
Mercedes sell used cars that have full MB service history where as they will trade out a car that has indy servicing and this will effect the trade in price.
You have to weigh up any savings made versus money lost come trade in.
I know my old man took his BMW 730d to an indy and it cost him £550 vs £850, but come trade in when BMW gave him the initial figure of £21800 they thought it was full BMW history, when they realised it was not they had to call round and get trade bids and their best bid was just under £19k.
In the end they gave him £20500, but that £300 saved on a service was not a saving at all in the end.
Main dealer servicing also gives a private buyer some confidence that the mileage etc. is genuine, and allows them to see any issues if they think the car has always been seen by a main dealer.
Not saying I don't prefer a decent indy, but on a newish car sticking with the main dealer can be beneficial.
Mercedes sell used cars that have full MB service history where as they will trade out a car that has indy servicing and this will effect the trade in price.
You have to weigh up any savings made versus money lost come trade in.
I know my old man took his BMW 730d to an indy and it cost him £550 vs £850, but come trade in when BMW gave him the initial figure of £21800 they thought it was full BMW history, when they realised it was not they had to call round and get trade bids and their best bid was just under £19k.
In the end they gave him £20500, but that £300 saved on a service was not a saving at all in the end.
Main dealer servicing also gives a private buyer some confidence that the mileage etc. is genuine, and allows them to see any issues if they think the car has always been seen by a main dealer.
Not saying I don't prefer a decent indy, but on a newish car sticking with the main dealer can be beneficial.
I forgot to say, at 37k miles my car had a service paid for by Mercedes, part of the deal when it was bought.
It needed a Major service including brake fluid, filters etc. as it was then 2 years old and needed the transmission fluid done, it also had two new Michelins fitted at £150 each and the total was £1100.
It needed a Major service including brake fluid, filters etc. as it was then 2 years old and needed the transmission fluid done, it also had two new Michelins fitted at £150 each and the total was £1100.
gizlaroc said:
I forgot to say, at 37k miles my car had a service paid for by Mercedes, part of the deal when it was bought.
It needed a Major service including brake fluid, filters etc. as it was then 2 years old and needed the transmission fluid done, it also had two new Michelins fitted at £150 each and the total was £1100.
What model?It needed a Major service including brake fluid, filters etc. as it was then 2 years old and needed the transmission fluid done, it also had two new Michelins fitted at £150 each and the total was £1100.
Zulu 10 said:
Where, as I found out, the main dealer will only change the fluid in the 'box itself, and conveniently forget about draining the torque converter in accordance with Merc's recommendations for the 7 speed.
My local main dealer couldn't be bothered with quoting for the whole job, so I bought the parts and did it myself....
As did I. My local main dealer couldn't be bothered with quoting for the whole job, so I bought the parts and did it myself....
Most independents I have also spoke to also admit that they haven't got star so measuring when the fluid is at 80ºc is a bit of a guess.
Another said they measure what comes out and replace it.
None of them are perfect.
Measuring what comes out doesn't really tell you though, as it comes out hot.
The difference between the cold mark and the hot mark is around 750ml of fluid, so if you drop 6 litres out hot, you need to put around 6.75 litres back in cold.
He had never thought of that.
gizlaroc said:
Zulu 10 said:
Where, as I found out, the main dealer will only change the fluid in the 'box itself, and conveniently forget about draining the torque converter in accordance with Merc's recommendations for the 7 speed.
My local main dealer couldn't be bothered with quoting for the whole job, so I bought the parts and did it myself....
As did I. My local main dealer couldn't be bothered with quoting for the whole job, so I bought the parts and did it myself....
Most independents I have also spoke to also admit that they haven't got star so measuring when the fluid is at 80ºc is a bit of a guess.
Another said they measure what comes out and replace it.
None of them are perfect.
Measuring what comes out doesn't really tell you though, as it comes out hot.
The difference between the cold mark and the hot mark is around 750ml of fluid, so if you drop 6 litres out hot, you need to put around 6.75 litres back in cold.
He had never thought of that.
I would have thought the best way was to drain it hot, allow the fluid to cool, see what volume you then have and put that much back in.
Don't suppose it matter much if you can drain off the excess?
REALIST123 said:
So the level falls when it gets hot?
I would have thought the best way was to drain it hot, allow the fluid to cool, see what volume you then have and put that much back in.
Don't suppose it matter much if you can drain off the excess?
No it rises. I would have thought the best way was to drain it hot, allow the fluid to cool, see what volume you then have and put that much back in.
Don't suppose it matter much if you can drain off the excess?
The marker point is around 750ml of fluid extra (cold) to go from the 20°c mark to the 80°c mark.
Know this as a friend had to drop 750ml out of his when it was at the 80°c mark at cold.
Yeah, dropping it out and measuring and then leaving to go cold would work, but many garages just want to get it done I guess?
I ended up using around 9 litres as some of the new stuff got pulled back out, but it was obvious when all new fluid was starting to come back through, nice and red.
Zulu 10 said:
If you do buy an E Class then I'd recommend that you ignore the main dealers and find a good independent who doesn't expect you to subsidise the cost of annual changes to manufacturer specified branding, marble flooring, pot plants and a bimbette on reception - there are plenty around....
Will that make any difference to the value at trade in time?gizlaroc said:
REALIST123 said:
So the level falls when it gets hot?
I would have thought the best way was to drain it hot, allow the fluid to cool, see what volume you then have and put that much back in.
Don't suppose it matter much if you can drain off the excess?
No it rises. I would have thought the best way was to drain it hot, allow the fluid to cool, see what volume you then have and put that much back in.
Don't suppose it matter much if you can drain off the excess?
The marker point is around 750ml of fluid extra (cold) to go from the 20°c mark to the 80°c mark.
Know this as a friend had to drop 750ml out of his when it was at the 80°c mark at cold.
Yeah, dropping it out and measuring and then leaving to go cold would work, but many garages just want to get it done I guess?
I ended up using around 9 litres as some of the new stuff got pulled back out, but it was obvious when all new fluid was starting to come back through, nice and red.
Gassing Station | Mercedes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff