Are binoculars stuff?
Discussion
I've reached the ripe old age of 60 and fancy a pair of binoculars.
I already have a pair I bought from Lidl and whereas they work in as much as stuff looks closer they wobble about too much, which I believe is due to too much magnification (I would check but I can't find them).
So I've done a bit of reading and settled on one of these two.
Are they worth bothering with? I specifically want compact ones.
Pentax Papilio II 6.5x21 Binoculars (Gray) https://amzn.eu/d/cOpqxaT
Vortex Optics Vanquish 10x26 Binoculars, Green, 10 x 26 cm https://amzn.eu/d/6kpCdG5
I'm erring towards the Pentax ones as the close focus seems like a good feature.
I already have a pair I bought from Lidl and whereas they work in as much as stuff looks closer they wobble about too much, which I believe is due to too much magnification (I would check but I can't find them).
So I've done a bit of reading and settled on one of these two.
Are they worth bothering with? I specifically want compact ones.
Pentax Papilio II 6.5x21 Binoculars (Gray) https://amzn.eu/d/cOpqxaT
Vortex Optics Vanquish 10x26 Binoculars, Green, 10 x 26 cm https://amzn.eu/d/6kpCdG5
I'm erring towards the Pentax ones as the close focus seems like a good feature.
I've also just turned 60 and had similar requirements. Ended up buying Celestron nature 10 x 32 compact binoculars https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B73JOC4/ref...
They focus very close and I can use them with or without wearing my jam jar glasses. Very impressed with image quality.
They focus very close and I can use them with or without wearing my jam jar glasses. Very impressed with image quality.
I got a pair of Celestron 71008 SkyMaster 25x70mm binos a few years back - not that portable but great for stars, boats
and watching the traffic lights change in a town 12 miles away.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Celestron-71008-SkyMaster...
and watching the traffic lights change in a town 12 miles away.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Celestron-71008-SkyMaster...
First number is the magnification, second is the amount of light that it allows in.
8 or 10 is the normal magnification, 10 gets a bit wobbly handheld.
25mm is the normal amount of light that gets let in for compact binoculars.
Cley Spy is a shop local to me that will price match, around the £100 mark I’d go for
Opticron Taiga 8×25 Compact Binocular
https://www.cleyspy.co.uk/product/opticron-taiga-8...
(There’s a 10x version too for £5 more)
Or
Hawke Nature-Trek 10×25 Binocular
https://www.cleyspy.co.uk/product/hawke-nature-tre...
8 or 10 is the normal magnification, 10 gets a bit wobbly handheld.
25mm is the normal amount of light that gets let in for compact binoculars.
Cley Spy is a shop local to me that will price match, around the £100 mark I’d go for
Opticron Taiga 8×25 Compact Binocular
https://www.cleyspy.co.uk/product/opticron-taiga-8...
(There’s a 10x version too for £5 more)
Or
Hawke Nature-Trek 10×25 Binocular
https://www.cleyspy.co.uk/product/hawke-nature-tre...
blingybongy said:
I'm 60 not infirm and feeble just yet lol.
I use binoculars for sporting events, such as motor racing and rugby. When I was around 55, I found that after <10 minutes, my arms would ache. I could not last a whole half, nor could I follow motor races all the time. The next couple of days I would have pains across my shoulders. Nothing agonising, but pain none the less. I use a monopod and ball/socket head. I can rest my arms while watching. No shoulder pain, even 20 years later.
I bought my mum a pair of the Hawke 10x25 mentioned above and recently replaced them with a pair of Nikon P3 8x30, huge improvement. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-PROSTAFF-P3-8x30-Bi...
Stick with 8x or lower if you're struggling holding the image steady, lower mags will have a wider field of view too and transmit more light. The second number is the objective (outer) lens diameter in mm, bigger lenses = brighter images but more bulk and weight obviously. Above Nikon very light for its size class.
Trying a few in a suitable shop (london camera exchange have lots of branches, many cities have specialist photo/optical shops) probably best bet, or, if you're comfortable doing so, order a few from Amazon, take your pick and return others?
Stick with 8x or lower if you're struggling holding the image steady, lower mags will have a wider field of view too and transmit more light. The second number is the objective (outer) lens diameter in mm, bigger lenses = brighter images but more bulk and weight obviously. Above Nikon very light for its size class.
Trying a few in a suitable shop (london camera exchange have lots of branches, many cities have specialist photo/optical shops) probably best bet, or, if you're comfortable doing so, order a few from Amazon, take your pick and return others?
The smaller binos (often called sport or similar) will magnify well but much more difficult to locate things with and be less stable than larger traditional type ones.
I have a pair similar to those Pentax ones which I have had for years and rarely can be bothered to use.
Look at the likes of the RSPB shop and you'll support a charity too
https://shopping.rspb.org.uk/binoculars-scopes/bir...
I have a pair similar to those Pentax ones which I have had for years and rarely can be bothered to use.
Look at the likes of the RSPB shop and you'll support a charity too
https://shopping.rspb.org.uk/binoculars-scopes/bir...
I wouldn't imagine the 2 you link would be much better than your lidl pair. They're very compact and may be fine for sticking in a pocket for a casual look while out but if you want to look ag anything properly you'd want a larger front element. Something like a 10x42 is a reasonable compromise between size and performance.
I'd go in a store and try a few out.
I'd go in a store and try a few out.
Tony1963 said:
OP,
What will you be using them for?
Just generally looking at stuff, boats in a harbour, seagull on a pier, cows in a field stuff like that.What will you be using them for?
The Lidl binocs cost a tenner and the Pentax are a hundred quid so the likelihood of them both being similar is cobblers.
Anyway I've ordered the Pentax 6.5 x 21
Edited to add - well, I should have refreshed my screen from yesterday before replying to this thread, as it seems the OP has already ordered some. 
FWIW, as a couple of posters have mentioned, I'm not a big fan of the very compact binoculars (I have a Nikon version which I never use), and would go for 8x42 or similar as a reasonable compromise. I have a pair of Barr and Stroud ones with a VERY wide field of view, and these are really good to use.
Anyway, the below may be of some use to anyone else looking at binoculars...
Very much this.
There are a range of factors to consider when choosing binoculars regardless of the manufacturer which all have a significant impact on what to go for, and many of the factors will affect other factors:
Magnification
Objective lens diameter
Physical size
Weight
Closest focus distance
Eye relief and exit pupil size
Field of view
Waterproof/rugged
Image stabilisation (IS)
Firstly, the headline spec, such as (from the ones you listed), 6.5x21 or 10x26
Magnification
The first number is the magnification, so 6.5x will make the image 6.5 times larger, whereas 10x will make the image 10x larger. So the higher the magnification, the closer they will make things look, so the more detail you can see.
The tradeoff here is that the higher the magnification, the more difficult it is to hold them still to stop the image wobbling about. The most common magnifications tend to be 8x or 10x.
Objective lens diameter
This is the second number in the headline spec, so in the ones you listed, 21mm or 26mm. This is the size of the front lens. The larger the lens, the more light they let in, so the brighter the image. A larger lens which lets in more light will generally mean they perform better in dim light, so better for seeing (for example) birds in woodland shade, or if using them in low light such around dawn/dusk.
The tradeoff here is that the larger the lens, the larger the physical size of the binoculars, and the heavier they are.
Close focus distance
Obviously this is the closest distance to an object that they will focus on. Most "close focussing" ones tend to be around 2 metres. Obviously the 6.5x21 Pentax you mentioned has a much closer focus distance of 50cm. This would be handy for looking at (for example) insects if this is important to you. Bear in mind though that the Pentax ones are only 6.5x magnification.
Exit relief and exit pupil size.
The larger these numbers, the further away from the binoculars your eye can be whilst still seeing the whole image. This is something to consider if you wear glasses and wish to use them whilst still wearing your glasses. Personally, I wear glasses but prefer to push them up onto my forehead when using binoculars.
Field of view
This is the width of the image in view at a given distance. It is usually stated as xxx metres at 1000m distance, or yyy feet at 1000 yards. To directly compare binoculars quoted in the imperial measure, divide the "yyy feet" figure by 3 to give the equivalent number in the metric system.
In general, the higher the magnification the smaller the field of view, BUT, if comparing 2 binoculars at the same magnification (e.g. 8x), and one has a significantly wider field of view, it will give you a wider picture, which makes it much easier to (for example) pick up moving subjects such as birds in woodland. I have 2 binoculars with 8x magnification. One has a typical field of view of 114m at 1000m, the other has 143m at 1000m, which is unusual. The second one is much better to use and allows you to see a much wider picture (at the same magnification). The first one is more like looking down a narrow tube in comparison.
Waterproof/rugged
Pretty obvious really, but if you are going to be using them in the rain/outside a lot, then waterproof ones would be an obvious choice. Many are able to withstand being in 1 metre of water for 3 minutes, so whilst you'd never use them underwater, they should survive being dropped in a puddle/stream.
Image stabilisation (IS)
Image stabilised binoculars (Canon are renowned for these) are a complete game changer when it comes to seeing a clear image, particularly at higher magnifications of 10x and above, although still incredibly useful at 8x. They basically actively move some of the lenses in response to you moving the binoculars, which gives a rock steady image. They require batteries (although the binoculars will still function as normal binoculars if the batteries run flat). The downside is that they tend to be more bulky and heavier, and perhaps most obvious, they cost a lot more.
Other factors may will be mentioned:
ED glass - lower distortion - better quality image.
Prism glass type - BK7 or Bak-4 - Bak4 is higher quality giving a better image. Note some very cheap binoculars are claimed to have Bak4, but there can be instances when the vendors are being economical with the truth.
Once you've decided on a rough spec and budget, then you can compare like with like models from different manufacturers/brands. Also, most manufacturers will have multiple ranges at different price points.
FWIW, as a couple of posters have mentioned, I'm not a big fan of the very compact binoculars (I have a Nikon version which I never use), and would go for 8x42 or similar as a reasonable compromise. I have a pair of Barr and Stroud ones with a VERY wide field of view, and these are really good to use.
Anyway, the below may be of some use to anyone else looking at binoculars...
Tony1963 said:
OP,
What will you be using them for?
^^^What will you be using them for?
Very much this.
There are a range of factors to consider when choosing binoculars regardless of the manufacturer which all have a significant impact on what to go for, and many of the factors will affect other factors:
Magnification
Objective lens diameter
Physical size
Weight
Closest focus distance
Eye relief and exit pupil size
Field of view
Waterproof/rugged
Image stabilisation (IS)
Firstly, the headline spec, such as (from the ones you listed), 6.5x21 or 10x26
Magnification
The first number is the magnification, so 6.5x will make the image 6.5 times larger, whereas 10x will make the image 10x larger. So the higher the magnification, the closer they will make things look, so the more detail you can see.
The tradeoff here is that the higher the magnification, the more difficult it is to hold them still to stop the image wobbling about. The most common magnifications tend to be 8x or 10x.
Objective lens diameter
This is the second number in the headline spec, so in the ones you listed, 21mm or 26mm. This is the size of the front lens. The larger the lens, the more light they let in, so the brighter the image. A larger lens which lets in more light will generally mean they perform better in dim light, so better for seeing (for example) birds in woodland shade, or if using them in low light such around dawn/dusk.
The tradeoff here is that the larger the lens, the larger the physical size of the binoculars, and the heavier they are.
Close focus distance
Obviously this is the closest distance to an object that they will focus on. Most "close focussing" ones tend to be around 2 metres. Obviously the 6.5x21 Pentax you mentioned has a much closer focus distance of 50cm. This would be handy for looking at (for example) insects if this is important to you. Bear in mind though that the Pentax ones are only 6.5x magnification.
Exit relief and exit pupil size.
The larger these numbers, the further away from the binoculars your eye can be whilst still seeing the whole image. This is something to consider if you wear glasses and wish to use them whilst still wearing your glasses. Personally, I wear glasses but prefer to push them up onto my forehead when using binoculars.
Field of view
This is the width of the image in view at a given distance. It is usually stated as xxx metres at 1000m distance, or yyy feet at 1000 yards. To directly compare binoculars quoted in the imperial measure, divide the "yyy feet" figure by 3 to give the equivalent number in the metric system.
In general, the higher the magnification the smaller the field of view, BUT, if comparing 2 binoculars at the same magnification (e.g. 8x), and one has a significantly wider field of view, it will give you a wider picture, which makes it much easier to (for example) pick up moving subjects such as birds in woodland. I have 2 binoculars with 8x magnification. One has a typical field of view of 114m at 1000m, the other has 143m at 1000m, which is unusual. The second one is much better to use and allows you to see a much wider picture (at the same magnification). The first one is more like looking down a narrow tube in comparison.
Waterproof/rugged
Pretty obvious really, but if you are going to be using them in the rain/outside a lot, then waterproof ones would be an obvious choice. Many are able to withstand being in 1 metre of water for 3 minutes, so whilst you'd never use them underwater, they should survive being dropped in a puddle/stream.
Image stabilisation (IS)
Image stabilised binoculars (Canon are renowned for these) are a complete game changer when it comes to seeing a clear image, particularly at higher magnifications of 10x and above, although still incredibly useful at 8x. They basically actively move some of the lenses in response to you moving the binoculars, which gives a rock steady image. They require batteries (although the binoculars will still function as normal binoculars if the batteries run flat). The downside is that they tend to be more bulky and heavier, and perhaps most obvious, they cost a lot more.
Other factors may will be mentioned:
ED glass - lower distortion - better quality image.
Prism glass type - BK7 or Bak-4 - Bak4 is higher quality giving a better image. Note some very cheap binoculars are claimed to have Bak4, but there can be instances when the vendors are being economical with the truth.
Once you've decided on a rough spec and budget, then you can compare like with like models from different manufacturers/brands. Also, most manufacturers will have multiple ranges at different price points.
Edited by C n C on Friday 14th June 10:48
Edited by C n C on Friday 14th June 10:53
blingybongy said:
Just generally looking at stuff, boats in a harbour, seagull on a pier, cows in a field stuff like that.
The Lidl binocs cost a tenner and the Pentax are a hundred quid so the likelihood of them both being similar is cobblers.
Anyway I've ordered the Pentax 6.5 x 21
Ok you're right. I googled the Lidl ones and they appear to have sold a number of different models if you have the 10 x 50 version what you have just ordered will likely be better built and and have a better name but will be worse to use for most things except for being able to stick in your pocket. The Lidl binocs cost a tenner and the Pentax are a hundred quid so the likelihood of them both being similar is cobblers.
Anyway I've ordered the Pentax 6.5 x 21
hengti said:
I bought my mum a pair of the Hawke 10x25 mentioned above and recently replaced them with a pair of Nikon P3 8x30, huge improvement. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-PROSTAFF-P3-8x30-Bi...
Stick with 8x or lower if you're struggling holding the image steady, lower mags will have a wider field of view too and transmit more light. The second number is the objective (outer) lens diameter in mm, bigger lenses = brighter images but more bulk and weight obviously. Above Nikon very light for its size class.
Trying a few in a suitable shop (london camera exchange have lots of branches, many cities have specialist photo/optical shops) probably best bet, or, if you're comfortable doing so, order a few from Amazon, take your pick and return others?
Stick with 8x or lower if you're struggling holding the image steady, lower mags will have a wider field of view too and transmit more light. The second number is the objective (outer) lens diameter in mm, bigger lenses = brighter images but more bulk and weight obviously. Above Nikon very light for its size class.
Trying a few in a suitable shop (london camera exchange have lots of branches, many cities have specialist photo/optical shops) probably best bet, or, if you're comfortable doing so, order a few from Amazon, take your pick and return others?
7 x 50 used to be the standard carried on ships as they were practical to use stood on a moving platform, the large objective gives decent brightness and they didn't break the bank; the advent of stabilisation means if you have deep pockets greater magnification can be used but at considerable cost.Gassing Station | Computers, Gadgets & Stuff | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff