Fusion 360 and 3D Printing
Discussion
Hi all, I was hoping for a little help from anyone who may have experience of using Fusion360 and then getting a part 3D printed.
I am planning on having a couple of tweeter mounts made up for my Mx5. I have already made these mounts from MDF to prove the theory and check something along these lines should work. The finished product should look something like this:
IMG_20180606_192541 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
These were only ever a test piece however, and they are now starting to look a bit ropey.
My plan is to draw something up with Fusion360 (having not touched CAD software for about 10 years) and then send the design off to be printed. A lot could go wrong with that though!
I had a couple of general 3D printing questions:
1) What is the quality of the surface finish likely to be? Should I expect to have to do a lot of sanding and painting to get a nice finish?
2) Is it possible to print reasonable threads, or would it be more simple to just have some holes printed and then helicoil the holes for the fasteners?
3) Is this a stupid idea and my total lack of knowledge around such tech will mean I just waste a load of time and money!?
Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.
I am planning on having a couple of tweeter mounts made up for my Mx5. I have already made these mounts from MDF to prove the theory and check something along these lines should work. The finished product should look something like this:
IMG_20180606_192541 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThese were only ever a test piece however, and they are now starting to look a bit ropey.
My plan is to draw something up with Fusion360 (having not touched CAD software for about 10 years) and then send the design off to be printed. A lot could go wrong with that though!
I had a couple of general 3D printing questions:
1) What is the quality of the surface finish likely to be? Should I expect to have to do a lot of sanding and painting to get a nice finish?
2) Is it possible to print reasonable threads, or would it be more simple to just have some holes printed and then helicoil the holes for the fasteners?
3) Is this a stupid idea and my total lack of knowledge around such tech will mean I just waste a load of time and money!?
Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.
Hi,
I'm relatively new to 3D printing & Fusion 360 so bear that in mind but I'd say that's an ideal little project for a 3D printer, they are great for creating custom or NLA parts.
Firstly, that looks a simple enough basic design for Fusion. On the one occasion I wanted a threaded part I just made the hole and ran a tap through it to form the thread, I doubt my DIY printer would have coped with making a small (M3) thread but it depends what you are using I suppose.
For a home print I doubt you'd get a good enough finish as printed although again, that depends on the printer & materials used. If it's going in a car and will see hot sunshine then I'd say you need to use a material with a higher softening point, maybe PETG or resin. Resin would give a very good finish and a professional printer will probably have access to this and be able to advise you.
You can get materials in a range of colours so if you want black then a black resin might be good enough as it comes. But finishing isn't a big deal and I've used rattle can paints on plenty of 3D printed parts.
Finally, before you set out with Fusion 360, take a look on the internet to see if anyone has already made one. Thingiverse is full of home designed parts and you might strike lucky.
https://www.thingiverse.com/
I'm relatively new to 3D printing & Fusion 360 so bear that in mind but I'd say that's an ideal little project for a 3D printer, they are great for creating custom or NLA parts.
Firstly, that looks a simple enough basic design for Fusion. On the one occasion I wanted a threaded part I just made the hole and ran a tap through it to form the thread, I doubt my DIY printer would have coped with making a small (M3) thread but it depends what you are using I suppose.
For a home print I doubt you'd get a good enough finish as printed although again, that depends on the printer & materials used. If it's going in a car and will see hot sunshine then I'd say you need to use a material with a higher softening point, maybe PETG or resin. Resin would give a very good finish and a professional printer will probably have access to this and be able to advise you.
You can get materials in a range of colours so if you want black then a black resin might be good enough as it comes. But finishing isn't a big deal and I've used rattle can paints on plenty of 3D printed parts.
Finally, before you set out with Fusion 360, take a look on the internet to see if anyone has already made one. Thingiverse is full of home designed parts and you might strike lucky.
https://www.thingiverse.com/
Looks easy to model. Though I don't use fusion 360.
Play with the settings, you should be able to get a reasonable matt finish in regular PLA.
If you print in wood filled PLA you can sand it before painting.
You can print very coarse threads, but for this I would create a hex pocket and bond a regular nut in, or heatstake a rivnut in. I don't think a helicoil would work.
Play with the settings, you should be able to get a reasonable matt finish in regular PLA.
If you print in wood filled PLA you can sand it before painting.
You can print very coarse threads, but for this I would create a hex pocket and bond a regular nut in, or heatstake a rivnut in. I don't think a helicoil would work.
You could use https://www.tinkercad.com/ as a free alternative to Fusion 360
Thanks for the feedback all.
I think I'll knock up a design, and then hopefully find a local place who can print it who are willing to take the time to tell a complete beginner the various bits he's done wrong! We'll see how it goes I guess.
The bit I was most worried about being able to to was the asymmetric profile at the back (badly modelled in MDF below), but I've worked out how I can do that now I think.
IMG_20180602_134305 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I did actually try tinkercad before Fusion360, but fusion was closer to the CAD software I used many years ago, so made slightly more sense to me.
Maybe if I model something I'll post it here if any of you good people can spot obvious idiocy in what I've done!
I think I'll knock up a design, and then hopefully find a local place who can print it who are willing to take the time to tell a complete beginner the various bits he's done wrong! We'll see how it goes I guess.
The bit I was most worried about being able to to was the asymmetric profile at the back (badly modelled in MDF below), but I've worked out how I can do that now I think.
IMG_20180602_134305 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrI did actually try tinkercad before Fusion360, but fusion was closer to the CAD software I used many years ago, so made slightly more sense to me.
Maybe if I model something I'll post it here if any of you good people can spot obvious idiocy in what I've done!
CubanPete said:
You can print very coarse threads
Note that yes, you can, but when drawing them in F360, you have to specifically model them to be functional threads rather than just a representation of a thread.I can't remember exactly what it is you need to select to change it, as I don't have it in front of me and its a long time since I've done it, but it was easy enough to find. It's just a tick box to say "model" in the thread options IIRC.
Again, thanks for the info regarding threads. All useful to know.
I have just finished a first attempt at a design, but am sadly now finding that a lot of 3D printing places don't want to do a couple of tweeter mounts designed by a complete amateur! I can understand why, but slightly disappointing nonetheless. Hopefully I can find somewhere for a reasonable cost shortly.
Ideally I was after a local place so they could actually review the file in case there were any stupid errors/things I hadn't considered and face-to-face seemed a better way to go. Keep looking I guess!
I have just finished a first attempt at a design, but am sadly now finding that a lot of 3D printing places don't want to do a couple of tweeter mounts designed by a complete amateur! I can understand why, but slightly disappointing nonetheless. Hopefully I can find somewhere for a reasonable cost shortly.
Ideally I was after a local place so they could actually review the file in case there were any stupid errors/things I hadn't considered and face-to-face seemed a better way to go. Keep looking I guess!
Try 3d print UK.
They are reasonably priced and print using SLS nylon so the quality and accuracy is top notch.
You can upload a file and get quoted there and then.
Can also get the parts polished and coloured.
I've used them a few times where my fdm printer has not been accurate enough.
They are reasonably priced and print using SLS nylon so the quality and accuracy is top notch.
You can upload a file and get quoted there and then.
Can also get the parts polished and coloured.
I've used them a few times where my fdm printer has not been accurate enough.
Lewis's Friend said:
Ok, so next ignoramos question... When generating my STL file, is there any reason not to turn the refinement up to high? As far as I can gather, this should smooth my curved surfaces out?
Thanks again all.
You want the resolution of the STL to be a magnitude better than the resolution you are printing at, so that when it slices you get an approximation of the most accurate shape, rather than an approximation of an approximation.Thanks again all.
I usually set it to 0.005mm.
I'd be happy to 3D print out a test if you like? And have a look at your design in Fusion360?
I can't answer the question about creating the STL though as I just let fusion do it for me on whatever default settings it has. Then slice in Cura.
I'm getting pretty decent results using black PLA - you'll still see layer lines, but I've got the printer pretty well dialled in at the moment.
Drop me a PM if interested, Cheers.
I can't answer the question about creating the STL though as I just let fusion do it for me on whatever default settings it has. Then slice in Cura.
I'm getting pretty decent results using black PLA - you'll still see layer lines, but I've got the printer pretty well dialled in at the moment.
Drop me a PM if interested, Cheers.
timmymagic73 said:
I'd be happy to 3D print out a test if you like? And have a look at your design in Fusion360?
I can't answer the question about creating the STL though as I just let fusion do it for me on whatever default settings it has. Then slice in Cura.
I'm getting pretty decent results using black PLA - you'll still see layer lines, but I've got the printer pretty well dialled in at the moment.
Drop me a PM if interested, Cheers.
Thanks very much for the offer - I've messaged you.I can't answer the question about creating the STL though as I just let fusion do it for me on whatever default settings it has. Then slice in Cura.
I'm getting pretty decent results using black PLA - you'll still see layer lines, but I've got the printer pretty well dialled in at the moment.
Drop me a PM if interested, Cheers.
timmymagic73 said:
I'd be happy to 3D print out a test if you like? And have a look at your design in Fusion360?
I can't answer the question about creating the STL though as I just let fusion do it for me on whatever default settings it has. Then slice in Cura.
I'm getting pretty decent results using black PLA - you'll still see layer lines, but I've got the printer pretty well dialled in at the moment.
Drop me a PM if interested, Cheers.
PLA will sag/melt in the sun - just bear that in mind. PLA+ is a little better. I use PETG for stuff that gets hot.I can't answer the question about creating the STL though as I just let fusion do it for me on whatever default settings it has. Then slice in Cura.
I'm getting pretty decent results using black PLA - you'll still see layer lines, but I've got the printer pretty well dialled in at the moment.
Drop me a PM if interested, Cheers.
sjj84 said:
I'm confused why you aren't using this as an excuse to buy a 3d printer!! You can get them pretty cheap and then you can make endless amounts of things you don't actually need. I've got an ender3 which is a few years old now sure things are even better now.
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