Rear Crossmember, Checker plate
Discussion
What is the best way to install this panel? I was going to use sikaflex to seal it to the x-member on the dop surface and then pop rivet it in place.
I am worried that the panel might trap water against the rear crossmember, so I thought sealing the top surface would help. I have also cleaned and painted the rear x-member prior to works and applied a thick stonechip coating to protect it.
What is the best way of re-drilling all of the step / access holes etc??
Neil.
I am worried that the panel might trap water against the rear crossmember, so I thought sealing the top surface would help. I have also cleaned and painted the rear x-member prior to works and applied a thick stonechip coating to protect it.
What is the best way of re-drilling all of the step / access holes etc??
Neil.
Why put checker plate on the rear cross-member? I can't see what the purpose would be.
If you do then you need to seal with silicone sealant very tightly or as you say you run the risk of trapping water and causing longterm term problems. You dont say which model you're talking about, but you would need to make a template to re-cut the holes for PTO, jacking points etc as needed.
If you do then you need to seal with silicone sealant very tightly or as you say you run the risk of trapping water and causing longterm term problems. You dont say which model you're talking about, but you would need to make a template to re-cut the holes for PTO, jacking points etc as needed.
Taste aside, there is no method to avoid water or condensation coming between rear traverse and chequer plate. Even if you create a seal with Sikaflex around the contour of the chequer plate, the smallest leak will cause water to come in and rest there, alone through capillary attraction.
Model is a land rover defender 90 300TDi.
It already has sill and rear 1/4 covers so the rear will finish off. This is going to be combined with tow bar and black checker mud flap brackets, then Simmonites corner bumperettes with light guards in black.
I like the checker plate as long as its tastefull and there isn't too much of it, plus It beats having to re-finish the rear x-member every year??
Will make a card template first. Cheers.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I suppose.
Neil.
It already has sill and rear 1/4 covers so the rear will finish off. This is going to be combined with tow bar and black checker mud flap brackets, then Simmonites corner bumperettes with light guards in black.
I like the checker plate as long as its tastefull and there isn't too much of it, plus It beats having to re-finish the rear x-member every year??
Will make a card template first. Cheers.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I suppose.
Neil.
my defender is a 96 N 300Tdi. The rear x-member was a little mottled when I bought it so I took it back to bare metal. It had been tarted up 3 times previously judging by the paint layers.
I used 3 coats of finnigans no 1 rust primer, then coat of stone chip, followed by grey primer and Satin Black top coat. The panel should now have a good impermeable layer to prevent rust forming.
I was going to seam seal around top surface only to allow the panel to breathe and water to dispell under gravity.
I am also going to drill a 1/2 inch hole in the bottom of the x-member near the kick-up near to where the mud flaps mount as I am sick of hving to hose mud out of this trap??
Neil.
I used 3 coats of finnigans no 1 rust primer, then coat of stone chip, followed by grey primer and Satin Black top coat. The panel should now have a good impermeable layer to prevent rust forming.
I was going to seam seal around top surface only to allow the panel to breathe and water to dispell under gravity.
I am also going to drill a 1/2 inch hole in the bottom of the x-member near the kick-up near to where the mud flaps mount as I am sick of hving to hose mud out of this trap??
Neil.
heightswitch said:
I like the checker plate as long as its tastefull and there isn't too much of it, plus It beats having to re-finish the rear x-member every year??
Yes I can see your point. I should think that perhaps most people who do this don't worry too much about what's going on behind the checkerplate though. What the eye doesn't see, the heart doesn't grieve over, etc. After all, when all's said and done, it's still a substantial bit of metal, and can cope with a long period of surface corrosion, even if it doesn't always look pretty. Good idea to try to make it rustproof behind the checkerplate though.
I'm not so sure you'll have a problem at all. Doesn't the chequerplate fit over the top of the Xmember? If its sealed with some type of silicone sealant in a continous bead, you may get some condensation form inside of the bead but you won't get any excess water entering into the centre of the beaded area.
Condensation would create a very slow atmosphere for oxidisation to take place and (especially) given the rust treatment that you have given the crossmember, provided no defects in painted surface, i reckon you'll be ok for some time.
If you are still really worried, i see two possibilities (well, three really but the third discounts the use of the chequerplate!
):
1) Fit spacers between chequerplate and Xmember, such that water can freely enter/disperse without hindrance. This will allow air to circulate and dry out, but of course will also let water in.
2) Yearly or whatever, drill out pop-rivets and remove chequerplate. Check for rust, if present, re-paint Xmember and replace chequerplate. If not, just replace plate again (sealing as before).
Condensation would create a very slow atmosphere for oxidisation to take place and (especially) given the rust treatment that you have given the crossmember, provided no defects in painted surface, i reckon you'll be ok for some time.
If you are still really worried, i see two possibilities (well, three really but the third discounts the use of the chequerplate!
): 1) Fit spacers between chequerplate and Xmember, such that water can freely enter/disperse without hindrance. This will allow air to circulate and dry out, but of course will also let water in.
2) Yearly or whatever, drill out pop-rivets and remove chequerplate. Check for rust, if present, re-paint Xmember and replace chequerplate. If not, just replace plate again (sealing as before).
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