Diff Problems

[Fiskkeeper]

been playing offroad all wkend & had a knocking/clanking/banging/jamming happening to both diffs. investigation has shown the the row of bolts that hold crownwheel to the diff centers have come loose & started to work out. the bolt heads had been striking the casing in some cases & this has totalled a bearing in the rear diff.
my question is how the hell do you get all the oil out of the threads in the crownwheel to threadlock them all back in?

[bluespanner]

Are you sure you dont want to get the diffs out to see what damage you have done? If the pinion has been moving away from the crownwheel, the teeth will have taken a mincing...

[Fiskkeeper]

the diffs are out thats how i found the damage. the crownwheel can only move towards the pinion when these bolts come loose. i need to know how to stop this happening again. i will replace all the bolts as the threads are damaged from the crownwheel moving.

[100SRV]

I would wash all parts in brake cleaner either a spray or bath of it - it will remove traces of the EP90 thus allowing you to threadlock them. You can reassemble safe in the knowledge that it is a job done properly.

[Liszt]

Though about getting your diff pegged?
www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_47.html

[Fiskkeeper]

funny was discussing that with a couple of mates who do winch challenges over the weekend Liszt. dont really feel the need currently, ive never damaged a pinion or crownwheel. all i used to do was blow the centers on the chocolate 2-pin diffs.
i dont intend to run tyres big enough to really need pinned diffs, i want 33x12.50 when i can afford it but thats as big as i think i need. i was getting 90% of the places a couple of very tricked up 90s (ARBs 35" simex etc) did last weekend. im more than happy with that as im running 235/85s on a disco.

i got told by someone else that threadlock comes in several flavours red, blue & green. im told the colour equals strengh, anyone know which is strongest?

[itsallyellow]

well i used threadlock on mine but also used some special bolt holding clips. I had never seen them before. but they were on a series 3 diff i had laying around. they fold over the bolt and lock it in place.
mike

[Fiskkeeper]

i was tempted to look for tab washers like i saw somewhere else once. goes under two bolts & you fold the ends up. rather like the top swivel pin bolts.
got some strong strengh loctite & a large can of brake cleaner. going to rebuild later today when i finish this cuppa. hope it works this time.

[steve_d]

Cleaning is by far the safest route but Loctite also do oil tolerant grades.

Steve

[Fiskkeeper]

well its all cleaned up & rebuilt. we shall see how they last this time i guess. they fall apart again & im going to source tab washers to physically lock the bolts. my old MG has tab washers & it sounds like series LRs do too. but of course something that works but costs 2p more a unit cant be kept can it?

[greenlandy]

You could always lockwire them. IMHO it looks a lot more proffesional than tab washers.

[Fiskkeeper]

very true, if i had the skill with a drill to put the holes in for the wire.

[greenlandy]

Do you know of any airforce type chappies? When I was in the mob a lot of our bolts came predrilled . If not center punch and use a piller drill and let the drill bit do the work.

[Fiskkeeper]

pillar drill? oh for a workshop. i do everything on a black & decker workmate in the road beside the car.

[greenlandy]

Thats a bummer. I made the mistake of rebuilding mine outside last winter

[steve_d]

Frost do a jig for drilling wire lock holes in nuts and bolts.
Bit expensive for what it is.
www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8864&frostProductName=Nut%20Drilling%20Jig

Steve