Defender buyers guide?
Discussion
Can anyone point me in the direction of an on-line buyers guide for a Defender? I'm thinking of buying a 110 to replace my camper (I hope to fit it out myself, probably fairly basically with a double bed and stove being the main requirements) but the main magazines (LRM, LRO, LRE etc) don't seem to have any info on-line and I'd like to know the main things to look out for?
I was thinking of spending around £4k but have recently seen a few mid-1990's, reasonable mileage, service history, ex-utility company offerings @ £5-£6k? Are they a better bet and is it worth spending the extra money initially?
Any advice much appreciated as this is my first foray into 4x4 ownership!?
I was thinking of spending around £4k but have recently seen a few mid-1990's, reasonable mileage, service history, ex-utility company offerings @ £5-£6k? Are they a better bet and is it worth spending the extra money initially?
Any advice much appreciated as this is my first foray into 4x4 ownership!?
Don't know of anything on line, but someone may.....?
Heres a little something to be getting on with......Firstly they are nothing like a car to drive or use, they are a 4x4 workhorse that happens to be ok on the road! So your first drive may be a shock. (not that their horrendous but some people assume they are like a car but a bit higher up!) Also I assume your going for a 110 Hard Top (van basically) to convert?
If so I wouldn't bother with anything pre-"Tdi" engine (1990 'H' reg onwards, badged Defender, "200 Tdi" from '90 to '93, "300 Tdi" from '94-'98, both same capacity and power, "300" is more refined and also the Defender got rear brake discs and revised gearbox at same time as change to 300 Tdi) as the Tdi is a vast improvement in performance and economy over previous engines and is well within your budget.
Go on condition more than mileage, example an ex-quarry/farm vehicles may have low mileage but 90% are rust buckets. I'd aim for a 94-96 300 Tdi Hard Top with under 100k for your budget and should have change to do some modifications. Things to look out for are rust to chassis (mainly rear half) and to bulkhead (normally top rail below windscreen and to the door pillars). Engine wise the Tdi in "300" form needs to have had the cambelt modification work carried out (if no proof budget £300-£400 to have it done), "200" doesn't have this problem. Other than that occasionally head gasket can go, turbo can wear and consume oil, lift pump failure quite common. Generally though the engine is very robust and will do 250k+ without a rebuild if maintained. Gearbox's do have some issues with mainshaft so make sure it doesn't clonk to much (gearbox quite agricultural so is slow change and can be jerky if your not used to it), and 2nd gear synchro on high mileage. Door frames are steel so look around bottom of doors for rot, depending if they can be repaired or not they are expensive to replace. Swivel's (bits at either end of front axle) can leak fluid if seals are worn, not expensive in terms of a new seal but time consuming to do. Interior trim not the best to start with but everything is available, and if your doing long distance trips you'll probably want to upgrade the front seats anyway, also soundproofing can be fitted. Key things really are checking for corrosion and that its been looked after.
Phew, hope thats got the ball rolling.
Heres a little something to be getting on with......Firstly they are nothing like a car to drive or use, they are a 4x4 workhorse that happens to be ok on the road! So your first drive may be a shock. (not that their horrendous but some people assume they are like a car but a bit higher up!) Also I assume your going for a 110 Hard Top (van basically) to convert?
If so I wouldn't bother with anything pre-"Tdi" engine (1990 'H' reg onwards, badged Defender, "200 Tdi" from '90 to '93, "300 Tdi" from '94-'98, both same capacity and power, "300" is more refined and also the Defender got rear brake discs and revised gearbox at same time as change to 300 Tdi) as the Tdi is a vast improvement in performance and economy over previous engines and is well within your budget.
Go on condition more than mileage, example an ex-quarry/farm vehicles may have low mileage but 90% are rust buckets. I'd aim for a 94-96 300 Tdi Hard Top with under 100k for your budget and should have change to do some modifications. Things to look out for are rust to chassis (mainly rear half) and to bulkhead (normally top rail below windscreen and to the door pillars). Engine wise the Tdi in "300" form needs to have had the cambelt modification work carried out (if no proof budget £300-£400 to have it done), "200" doesn't have this problem. Other than that occasionally head gasket can go, turbo can wear and consume oil, lift pump failure quite common. Generally though the engine is very robust and will do 250k+ without a rebuild if maintained. Gearbox's do have some issues with mainshaft so make sure it doesn't clonk to much (gearbox quite agricultural so is slow change and can be jerky if your not used to it), and 2nd gear synchro on high mileage. Door frames are steel so look around bottom of doors for rot, depending if they can be repaired or not they are expensive to replace. Swivel's (bits at either end of front axle) can leak fluid if seals are worn, not expensive in terms of a new seal but time consuming to do. Interior trim not the best to start with but everything is available, and if your doing long distance trips you'll probably want to upgrade the front seats anyway, also soundproofing can be fitted. Key things really are checking for corrosion and that its been looked after.
Phew, hope thats got the ball rolling.
Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for this, the tips are just what I'm looking for & really appreciated. I've been driving classics every day for the past 10 years so I'm under no illusions as to the ride quality etc. Sorry, I should have said I'm looking at the hard top rather than the station wagon.
I'm used to doing my own repairs and maintenance (take a look at my profile?!), although I must admit diesels & 4 wheel drive sytems are all new to me. However, I read recently that the 300Tdi was less easy to work on and not as user friendly as the 200Tdi? Any ideas?
I've always worked on the basis that most cam belts are ready for a change after 60k miles (or approx ten years as the rubber can apparently harden although visually they look fine), but what is the cambelt modifcation you refer to?
Once again many thanks, all advice and opinions are very welcome.
Paul.
Thanks for this, the tips are just what I'm looking for & really appreciated. I've been driving classics every day for the past 10 years so I'm under no illusions as to the ride quality etc. Sorry, I should have said I'm looking at the hard top rather than the station wagon.
I'm used to doing my own repairs and maintenance (take a look at my profile?!), although I must admit diesels & 4 wheel drive sytems are all new to me. However, I read recently that the 300Tdi was less easy to work on and not as user friendly as the 200Tdi? Any ideas?
I've always worked on the basis that most cam belts are ready for a change after 60k miles (or approx ten years as the rubber can apparently harden although visually they look fine), but what is the cambelt modifcation you refer to?
Once again many thanks, all advice and opinions are very welcome.
Paul.
As your used to classics and working on your own vehicles then a Defender is ideal, easy to work on and parts are reasonable. The cambelt modification on the 300's is to do with the backplate and cover which rub on the belt causing it to wear and snap early. Land Rover accepted this design fault and produced a new backplate and cover etc to be fitted FOC at main dealer as a recall but some slipped through the net so you need evidence of this been done. The 300's are the same to work on as the 200's, the only real difference is that there are some more electrics on the 300 for emissions control and an acoustic cover! The 4wd system is very simple so don't be scared of it. Buy yourself a proper land rover workshop manual and you should be armed to tackle most things yourself.
There are plenty of forums about for advice and you can get the workshop manual as a free download. If you can't find it I can mail one for a 96 300Tdi to you.
They are cracking cars, however they have surprisingly little room in them if you're thinking of doing a camper conversion. The rear is barely 6ft long and the internal height is only 4ft. Unless you get a pop top conversion or an ambulance they're more a 4x4 that you can sleep in than a go-anywhere campervan.
They are cracking cars, however they have surprisingly little room in them if you're thinking of doing a camper conversion. The rear is barely 6ft long and the internal height is only 4ft. Unless you get a pop top conversion or an ambulance they're more a 4x4 that you can sleep in than a go-anywhere campervan.
Cheers Church, will definitely bear that in mind when I'm looking.
Thanks for the offer, will see what I can find and may take you up on it later. I'm only looking for something for the odd night and weekend away. In the main I'm really looking to do some off-road driving and would also like a tow car (the classics thing again
). Long-term plan for camping is to replace my (sadly now deceased) VW with a split screen next year so this is a temporary measure in the meantime.
mechsympathy said:
There are plenty of forums about for advice and you can get the workshop manual as a free download. If you can't find it I can mail one for a 96 300Tdi to you.
They are cracking cars, however they have surprisingly little room in them if you're thinking of doing a camper conversion. The rear is barely 6ft long and the internal height is only 4ft. Unless you get a pop top conversion or an ambulance they're more a 4x4 that you can sleep in than a go-anywhere campervan.
They are cracking cars, however they have surprisingly little room in them if you're thinking of doing a camper conversion. The rear is barely 6ft long and the internal height is only 4ft. Unless you get a pop top conversion or an ambulance they're more a 4x4 that you can sleep in than a go-anywhere campervan.
Thanks for the offer, will see what I can find and may take you up on it later. I'm only looking for something for the odd night and weekend away. In the main I'm really looking to do some off-road driving and would also like a tow car (the classics thing again
). Long-term plan for camping is to replace my (sadly now deceased) VW with a split screen next year so this is a temporary measure in the meantime. Edited by slammedvanman on Thursday 10th August 16:21
slammedvanman said:
Thanks for the offer, will see what I can find and may take you up on it later. I'm only looking for something for the odd night and weekend away. In the main I'm really looking to do some off-road driving and would also like a tow car (the classics thing again ). Long-term plan for camping is to replace my (sadly now deceased) VW with a split screen next year so this is a temporary measure in the meantime.
). Long-term plan for camping is to replace my (sadly now deceased) VW with a split screen next year so this is a temporary measure in the meantime. 
Just so you know. This would suit you. Sort of
Disclaimer(ish): This is my car, I do have a vested interest, I just can't resist an opportunity to plug it
As an aside, how would you rate a combi for towing? I need a tow car and the wife wants a VW...
it certainly would but unfortunately doesn't suit my £5k budget! Depends what you're thinking of towing? I had a new engine in mine that would have towed most things but she was drums all round so stopping anything too heavy would have been interesting? If you get a later bay window they have discs up front so would be more suited. There are plenty of people with tow bars on their vans but most are used for towing small trailers and beach buggies (girlfriend wants me to build her one of those too
). You could also look for a good Type 25 if you don't mind the later styling? 
just taken a look at your profile, you sure you should be selling the Defender? Looks like you may need transport built of sterner stuff with your history See you lost a van the same why I did to a fire?! I've decided to steer clear of air-cooled engines in future, Subaru Legacy engine in a splitscreen next year with any luck!
I'm gonna really piss you off her the 110 hardtop makes a pretty crap camper! It makes a great overlander with roof top tent etc but (i'll say it again) a crap camper. A 130 ex mod ambulance is the ideal Landrover camper conversion or a 110/130 truck cab with a demountable camper. But these cost a lot of money to do nicely. I know i'll get put down for this post but this IMHO and i've done more traveling than the average bod.
Just remembered LRO did an article a few months back on Landrover camper conversions will get back if i can find the issue number.
Edited by greenlandy on Sunday 13th August 18:43
Just remembered LRO did an article a few months back on Landrover camper conversions will get back if i can find the issue number.
Edited by GreenLandy on Sunday 13th August 19:03
All input welcome as far as I'm concerned (having never owned a LR). An ambulance conversion was my original plan but they aren't as easy to come by, expensive when I have seen any and I was worried they may be top heavy/bulky for taking off-road? I came to the conclusion that the 110 although not ideal for a serious camper would be fine for stretching out in over summer weekends? My main concern at the minute is the amount of sound/heat proofing it would require to make it comfortable?
If you can find that LRO issue number I'd appreciate it, may be able to get a back issue.
If you can find that LRO issue number I'd appreciate it, may be able to get a back issue.
slammedvanman said:
just taken a look at your profile, you sure you should be selling the Defender? Looks like you may need transport built of sterner stuff with your history slammedvanman said:
See you lost a van the same why I did to a fire?! I've decided to steer clear of air-cooled engines in future, Subaru Legacy engine in a splitscreen next year with any luck!
One of the reasons I'm not keen on another. slammedvanman said:
My main concern at the minute is the amount of sound/heat proofing it would require to make it comfortable?
If you can find that LRO issue number I'd appreciate it, may be able to get a back issue.
If you can find that LRO issue number I'd appreciate it, may be able to get a back issue.
1. It's a Landy they're not meant to be comfortable!
2. I'm working my way through the pile
3.Just had a real good look for the article but can't find it
so I've emailed my old man who might shed some light. Edited by greenlandy on Monday 14th August 21:58
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