Defender pre purchase inspection
Discussion
https://www.stock-4x4.co.uk
These Boys I happened to come across last year , not for me ( get yourself a proper car
) but Rich my old off roader mate
was well impressed . I dont know how near you are to them ?
These Boys I happened to come across last year , not for me ( get yourself a proper car
) but Rich my old off roader matewas well impressed . I dont know how near you are to them ?
I am more of a Jaguar Enthusiast than a Landrover one but these things are hardly cutting edge technology and have a wide fan base throughout the Country . I would search for Land Rover Specialist or indeed Off Road Club near the Area where the car is and take things from there . It’s a nailed on certainty someone will be keen to help . There are also plenty publications outlining any faults and weaknesses with these models so with a bit of homework it’s well within your capabilities to do it yourself . Personally I would be sticking to vehicles relatively local to where I am . They are hardly rare after all and if it’s cheap its cheap for a reason
Edited by reddiesel on Saturday 25th February 13:04
I can’t help with a specialist, but I have a bit of experience with this model. Some things to be sure are checked for.
Rust - Chassis everywhere, but especially towards the rear cross member, the bulkhead and bottom of the c-pillar, body capping, inside bottom of tailgate door.
Aluminium corrosion around the windscreen frame. Lift the screen seal.
Engine - look for wet oil residue around the top to indicate leaking injector seals. If there’s oil mist around side near the inlet manifold could be failed vacuum pump. The timing chain and associated bits should be changed around 150,000 miles. Budget for it if it hasn’t been done. Make sure it started from cold. Should have a stable idle. If it’s fluctuating up and down it’ll probably need a new VCV valve on the fuel pump.
Check the AC works if it has it. The condensers are notorious for disintegrating and are expensive to replace.
Transmission. The clutches are known for clattering in neutral with your foot off the pedal. If it does that the springs in the friction plate are knackered and needs replacing. Check it goes into low range and difflock easily. Oil leaks from the back of the transfer box and from the bell housing (engine rear main seal) are common
Brakes - the ABS warning light should come on when you start then go off when you get above walking pace. Should pull up straight, if not probably a seized caliper.
There are many other possible faults obviously, but things like suspension and steering are simple and easy to service. The vast majority of parts are easily available.
These are not rare cars, so don’t feel under pressure to buy when viewing. If in doubt walk away.
Rust - Chassis everywhere, but especially towards the rear cross member, the bulkhead and bottom of the c-pillar, body capping, inside bottom of tailgate door.
Aluminium corrosion around the windscreen frame. Lift the screen seal.
Engine - look for wet oil residue around the top to indicate leaking injector seals. If there’s oil mist around side near the inlet manifold could be failed vacuum pump. The timing chain and associated bits should be changed around 150,000 miles. Budget for it if it hasn’t been done. Make sure it started from cold. Should have a stable idle. If it’s fluctuating up and down it’ll probably need a new VCV valve on the fuel pump.
Check the AC works if it has it. The condensers are notorious for disintegrating and are expensive to replace.
Transmission. The clutches are known for clattering in neutral with your foot off the pedal. If it does that the springs in the friction plate are knackered and needs replacing. Check it goes into low range and difflock easily. Oil leaks from the back of the transfer box and from the bell housing (engine rear main seal) are common
Brakes - the ABS warning light should come on when you start then go off when you get above walking pace. Should pull up straight, if not probably a seized caliper.
There are many other possible faults obviously, but things like suspension and steering are simple and easy to service. The vast majority of parts are easily available.
These are not rare cars, so don’t feel under pressure to buy when viewing. If in doubt walk away.
RemarkLima said:
However, my mate is in London and the car is in north Wales!
Definitely dont buy without inspection.North Wales by the coast?
I only ask as them Defenders are good for tugging boat trailers up slipways/sea...
Beware fresh waxoil application.
Pay above poster to go have a look?
Chassis rust, rear crossmember and out riggers, bulkhead under windscreen, door hinge area and footwells.
A galvanised chassis and bulkhead replacement would be a good find.
Everything else is mechanical and fairly straightforward.
Some defenders are cosseted, others treated like s
t. Take your time and find a good one.
I saw a beautifully restored 90 hardtop on Friday. On a new galvanised chassis and in stunning marine blue with cream wolf wheels, presumably a 300tdi or Td5. I had very envious feelings!
A galvanised chassis and bulkhead replacement would be a good find.
Everything else is mechanical and fairly straightforward.
Some defenders are cosseted, others treated like s
t. Take your time and find a good one.I saw a beautifully restored 90 hardtop on Friday. On a new galvanised chassis and in stunning marine blue with cream wolf wheels, presumably a 300tdi or Td5. I had very envious feelings!
Blackpuddin said:
PH buying guide here covers it pretty well.
https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-buying-guides/...
It's a terrible guide. The highlight being mention of a fuel burning heater which no factory Puma ever had to my knowledge.https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-buying-guides/...
OP,.spend a few hours on Defender2.net, join and ask some questions. There may be someone near to the car who.kight offer to cast an eye over it for you.
Trevor555 said:
RemarkLima said:
However, my mate is in London and the car is in north Wales!
Definitely dont buy without inspection.North Wales by the coast?
I only ask as them Defenders are good for tugging boat trailers up slipways/sea...
Beware fresh waxoil application.
Pay above poster to go have a look?
So some bits being sorted are OK, but a money pit basket case is a no no, and ideally a 4 door etc... So a bit of a unicorn that he's after rather than buying in Europe.
He'd happily pay for an inspection from someone who really knows what to look for, to avoid a money pit!
Some great advice, thanks for that and will PM you blueST
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