Land Rover Defender which engine is best?
Discussion
Hi. I'm thinking buying a Land Rover Defender(old shape) my youngest is obsessed with them, he has been badgering me to get one. I used to own Defenders previously, they were not particularly reliable particularly my second one!
Which engine be best to go for? I would only use it locally. Are defenders better now in terms of reliability?
Many thanks in advance
Philip
Which engine be best to go for? I would only use it locally. Are defenders better now in terms of reliability?
Many thanks in advance
Philip
07 to 2015 was a 4 cylinder diesel (2.4 & 2.2 litre ford unit used in transit etc) is pretty good but enjoys the higher revs.
1999-2006 was the five cylinder Td5 (2.5 litre volvo/ford unit) is excellent with lots of low torque where it is needed, but a little slow.
pre 1999 various 4 cylinder units and petrol v8s.
Biased recommendation (as I have one) is the Td5.
1999-2006 was the five cylinder Td5 (2.5 litre volvo/ford unit) is excellent with lots of low torque where it is needed, but a little slow.
pre 1999 various 4 cylinder units and petrol v8s.
Biased recommendation (as I have one) is the Td5.
Robert-q32ja said:
07 to 2015 was a 4 cylinder diesel (2.4 & 2.2 litre ford unit used in transit etc) is pretty good but enjoys the higher revs.
1999-2006 was the five cylinder Td5 (2.5 litre volvo/ford unit) is excellent with lots of low torque where it is needed, but a little slow.
pre 1999 various 4 cylinder units and petrol v8s.
Biased recommendation (as I have one) is the Td5.
Thanks. I did ride in a landrover recently with a td5 and I thought it went well but was very noisy,as he had a soft top on. 1999-2006 was the five cylinder Td5 (2.5 litre volvo/ford unit) is excellent with lots of low torque where it is needed, but a little slow.
pre 1999 various 4 cylinder units and petrol v8s.
Biased recommendation (as I have one) is the Td5.
300tdi, will give 32mpg if careful and good for 300,000 miles and more if regularly serviced.
Be sure to check that the fuel stop solenoid wire isn't rubbing the engine block (harness on RHS). An abysmal design and total lack of FMEA means the 0.5mm CSA wire is only protected by a 60amp Maxi fuse. If the fuse fails because the solenoid wire has shorted to the engine block the engine stops and you have no lights.
Be sure to check that the fuel stop solenoid wire isn't rubbing the engine block (harness on RHS). An abysmal design and total lack of FMEA means the 0.5mm CSA wire is only protected by a 60amp Maxi fuse. If the fuse fails because the solenoid wire has shorted to the engine block the engine stops and you have no lights.
Edited by 100SRV on Wednesday 1st June 23:51
Td5.
Get it remapped and have a decent exhaust on it.
They have a very good exhaust note for a diesel.
Only egrs which have almost certainly been blanked by now, the oil up the loom can happen but likely will have been sorted by now.
Tdi models are nice but slow.
Tdci are very good, but expensive and may not like 2 mile runs. They do have a heater that actually works though whereas it’s an afterthought for the others.
Make sure you have good security as they are easily stolen or stripped for parts and also can use a toolkit as they are maintenance heavy at times so doing it yourself will save money over constantly using a garage for the work.
Get it remapped and have a decent exhaust on it.
They have a very good exhaust note for a diesel.
Only egrs which have almost certainly been blanked by now, the oil up the loom can happen but likely will have been sorted by now.
Tdi models are nice but slow.
Tdci are very good, but expensive and may not like 2 mile runs. They do have a heater that actually works though whereas it’s an afterthought for the others.
Make sure you have good security as they are easily stolen or stripped for parts and also can use a toolkit as they are maintenance heavy at times so doing it yourself will save money over constantly using a garage for the work.
A.J.M said:
Td5.
Get it remapped and have a decent exhaust on it.
They have a very good exhaust note for a diesel.
Only egrs which have almost certainly been blanked by now, the oil up the loom can happen but likely will have been sorted by now.
Tdi models are nice but slow.
Tdci are very good, but expensive and may not like 2 mile runs. They do have a heater that actually works though whereas it’s an afterthought for the others.
Make sure you have good security as they are easily stolen or stripped for parts and also can use a toolkit as they are maintenance heavy at times so doing it yourself will save money over constantly using a garage for the work.
Thank you. I have had defender stolen years ago a 200 tdi it was stolen twice, never saw it again. If I bought another one, I would fit a detachable steering wheel and pedal box cover. I'm not particularly mechanically minded but could probably do simpler jobs Get it remapped and have a decent exhaust on it.
They have a very good exhaust note for a diesel.
Only egrs which have almost certainly been blanked by now, the oil up the loom can happen but likely will have been sorted by now.
Tdi models are nice but slow.
Tdci are very good, but expensive and may not like 2 mile runs. They do have a heater that actually works though whereas it’s an afterthought for the others.
Make sure you have good security as they are easily stolen or stripped for parts and also can use a toolkit as they are maintenance heavy at times so doing it yourself will save money over constantly using a garage for the work.
Newarch said:
Btw the Td5 is a Landrover design (from the BMW era) and shares nothing in common with the similar sized Volvo/Ford engine.
Any engine is ok, buy a Defender on condition and look really carefully at the chassis and bulkhead.
Thanks I'd probably get one with a galvanised chassis.Any engine is ok, buy a Defender on condition and look really carefully at the chassis and bulkhead.
99Chimaera said:
Thank you. I have had defender stolen years ago a 200 tdi it was stolen twice, never saw it again. If I bought another one, I would fit a detachable steering wheel and pedal box cover. I'm not particularly mechanically minded but could probably do simpler jobs
I’d add visible and invisible marking to that list. If you make all of the easily removable or high value bits traceable it won’t stop someone nicking it to go overseas but must make other vehicles more attractive for anyone wanting to steal to strip. Retainagroup do a Land Rover specific kit, that includes enough to etch all of your glass, for about £40-50 (one time cost, no subscription) if you call them directly.
LooneyTunes said:
99Chimaera said:
Thank you. I have had defender stolen years ago a 200 tdi it was stolen twice, never saw it again. If I bought another one, I would fit a detachable steering wheel and pedal box cover. I'm not particularly mechanically minded but could probably do simpler jobs
I’d add visible and invisible marking to that list. If you make all of the easily removable or high value bits traceable it won’t stop someone nicking it to go overseas but must make other vehicles more attractive for anyone wanting to steal to strip. Retainagroup do a Land Rover specific kit, that includes enough to etch all of your glass, for about £40-50 (one time cost, no subscription) if you call them directly.
Newarch said:
I own a really old Landrover and am very fond of it, the main issue stopping me wanting a 90/110/Defender is the theft issue, even the bodywork is valuable, easy to remove and thus highly nickable.
I have a soft top 90, so you can get into it by undoing a couple of knots. It lives in the garage, blocked in by another car and with cctv on it. I'm also very selective about where I park it. Sad state of affairs really.Gassing Station | Land Rover | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff