Best resource for newbie series 3 resto?
Discussion
Morning. To be the honest, forums have pretty much died a death these days. Are you on Facebook? The Series Land Rover group has over 40k people on it and when ever I post a question, I usually get several responses and most are pretty quick.
Series LRs are pretty easy to work on and you will be surprised how much you can do with basic tools. Gets more complicated when it comes to removing transmissions and engines.
Buying a Haynes Manual is also a good starting point too. Official Land Rover Workshop manual is worth it too.
What state is yours in your? Is it road worthy? If it isn't I would start there and fix the bits that will make it usable such as working lights, doors that lock ect.
I've had my series for nearly 10 years and recently returned it to the road after 5 years off it. I've carried out a cosmetic restoration including a repaint and added carpets, sound deadening, new seats, wheels, tyres, suspension, brakes. door tops and lights. I paid a garage to do the brakes and new clutch.
Feel free to have a peruse of the very picture heavy tread, which I update every time I do some work and remember to take photos
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Series LRs are pretty easy to work on and you will be surprised how much you can do with basic tools. Gets more complicated when it comes to removing transmissions and engines.
Buying a Haynes Manual is also a good starting point too. Official Land Rover Workshop manual is worth it too.
What state is yours in your? Is it road worthy? If it isn't I would start there and fix the bits that will make it usable such as working lights, doors that lock ect.
I've had my series for nearly 10 years and recently returned it to the road after 5 years off it. I've carried out a cosmetic restoration including a repaint and added carpets, sound deadening, new seats, wheels, tyres, suspension, brakes. door tops and lights. I paid a garage to do the brakes and new clutch.
Feel free to have a peruse of the very picture heavy tread, which I update every time I do some work and remember to take photos
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
bakerstreet said:
Series LRs are pretty easy to work on and you will be surprised how much you can do with basic tools. Gets more complicated when it comes to removing transmissions and engines.
Buying a Haynes Manual is also a good starting point too. Official Land Rover Workshop manual is worth it too.
What state is yours in your? Is it road worthy? If it isn't I would start there and fix the bits that will make it usable such as working lights, doors that lock ect.
All true, they do tend to be easy to work on but time takes its toll through corrosion or owners, let’s be kind, doing things their own way (I remember a particularly frustrating encounter with some leaf springs that were fitted using the wrong bolts) which means that some jobs can take a lot longer than you might originally anticipate. Buying a Haynes Manual is also a good starting point too. Official Land Rover Workshop manual is worth it too.
What state is yours in your? Is it road worthy? If it isn't I would start there and fix the bits that will make it usable such as working lights, doors that lock ect.
With respect to the highlighted, check your chassis as much as you can before you do too much work. Not much point doing a lot initially if you’re planning/needing a chassis replacement in the near future.
There are loads of little upgrades you can make to improve usability (replacing the sealed beam lights with halogens being perhaps the most obvious) or to get a neglected one running better.
Check the chassis and bulkhead for rust.
That’s the first check, if they have serious rust then that’s going to change the project with repairs or replacement for them.
Get on eBay and get a Land Rover workshop manual.
A superb guide and gives you step by step for how to fix loads of areas.
How long has it been sitting?
Does it run?
Do the brakes work?
That’s the first check, if they have serious rust then that’s going to change the project with repairs or replacement for them.
Get on eBay and get a Land Rover workshop manual.
A superb guide and gives you step by step for how to fix loads of areas.
How long has it been sitting?
Does it run?
Do the brakes work?
A.J.M said:
Check the chassis and bulkhead for rust.
That’s the first check, if they have serious rust then that’s going to change the project with repairs or replacement for them.
Get on eBay and get a Land Rover workshop manual.
A superb guide and gives you step by step for how to fix loads of areas.
How long has it been sitting?
Does it run?
Do the brakes work?
ThanksThat’s the first check, if they have serious rust then that’s going to change the project with repairs or replacement for them.
Get on eBay and get a Land Rover workshop manual.
A superb guide and gives you step by step for how to fix loads of areas.
How long has it been sitting?
Does it run?
Do the brakes work?
It’s been dry stored for 11 years and doesn’t have too much rust, chassis and bulkhead are ok, the area underneath the rear door has some but it looks repairable. I’ve seen video of it running but that was a tow start, it doesn’t start on the key which we think is the diesel pump which is being tested.
Not sure about the brakes as it doesn’t need them to stop when it’s being pushed
Dry stored is a winner.
Give the chassis a rub down and treatment to keep it good then.
For brakes, I found that replacement shoes and kits was so awful for fitment and quality ( lack of ) that I had the original shoes relined and fitted as they would fit.
The diesel is a strong but slow engine.
The workshop manual can be had from £32 on eBay.
It will be the best investment you’ll make.
Give the chassis a rub down and treatment to keep it good then.
For brakes, I found that replacement shoes and kits was so awful for fitment and quality ( lack of ) that I had the original shoes relined and fitted as they would fit.
The diesel is a strong but slow engine.
The workshop manual can be had from £32 on eBay.
It will be the best investment you’ll make.
gareth h said:
doesn’t start on the key which we think is the diesel pump which is being tested.
If it restarts easily when warm it could be the glow plugs. Dead easy (and quite cheap to change). A new set along with an updated battery made all the difference to mine when starting from cold, especially in winter. LooneyTunes said:
If it restarts easily when warm it could be the glow plugs. Dead easy (and quite cheap to change). A new set along with an updated battery made all the difference to mine when starting from cold, especially in winter.
Glow plugs are ok, wouldn’t even start with a heat gun down the inlet to encourage combustion.The pump has been refurbed so should know this week if that was the problem
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