300tdi with/without EGR
Discussion
I now have two identical Defender 110 Station wagons, one an N registration at 320,000 miles the other an R registration at 130,000 miles.
The N has Grabber TR tyres the R has BFG AT, both are 235/85R16 size and correct pressure, also the engines are completely standard.
The R also has the EGR system.
At this point I've made no changes or adjustments but find that the N reg one is substantially more perky even when completely cold.
First checks I thought would be that I'm getting the full range of travel from the accelerator linkage, then to check that the EGR valve isn't stuck open. Anything else I've missed?
Am I correct that removing the EGR and catalytic converter is now illegal and an MoT fail?
The N has Grabber TR tyres the R has BFG AT, both are 235/85R16 size and correct pressure, also the engines are completely standard.
The R also has the EGR system.
At this point I've made no changes or adjustments but find that the N reg one is substantially more perky even when completely cold.
First checks I thought would be that I'm getting the full range of travel from the accelerator linkage, then to check that the EGR valve isn't stuck open. Anything else I've missed?
Am I correct that removing the EGR and catalytic converter is now illegal and an MoT fail?
It could be all manner of things like fuel pump timing etc making one more sluggish, but certainly possible it's down to the egr, afterall they are terribly bad for engines.
Removing an EGR valve would be an mot fail yes, but blanking it off and leaving it all in situ isnot an mot fail as the mot tester only does a visual check to see if it is present.
If you do blank it off, which you should, then remove the inlet at some point and clean it out as it will be clogged up with soot and sludge.
Removing an EGR valve would be an mot fail yes, but blanking it off and leaving it all in situ isnot an mot fail as the mot tester only does a visual check to see if it is present.
If you do blank it off, which you should, then remove the inlet at some point and clean it out as it will be clogged up with soot and sludge.
Hi said:
It could be all manner of things like fuel pump timing etc making one more sluggish, but certainly possible it's down to the egr, afterall they are terribly bad for engines.
Removing an EGR valve would be an mot fail yes, but blanking it off and leaving it all in situ isnot an mot fail as the mot tester only does a visual check to see if it is present.
If you do blank it off, which you should, then remove the inlet at some point and clean it out as it will be clogged up with soot and sludge.
Thank you Hi, it's going on for a new timing belt soon so I'll get the injection timing checked then.Removing an EGR valve would be an mot fail yes, but blanking it off and leaving it all in situ isnot an mot fail as the mot tester only does a visual check to see if it is present.
If you do blank it off, which you should, then remove the inlet at some point and clean it out as it will be clogged up with soot and sludge.
Would removing the catalytic converter be a fail too? Is it particularly restrictive?
IMO - It's your fuel injector pump.
The boost compensation mechanism has probably seized and/or corroded (that bit on the top of the pump, 4x screws & connected to a pipe).
An easy way of checking is to simply pop off the screws, underneath there should be a rubber diaphragm, with a nut in the middle. If you give this a shove with your finger, it should be sprung loaded and move freely.
If it has seized, we'll move onto the next stage of un-seizing... If it's fine, there's probably something else, such as a gunked up intercooler, etc.
M
The boost compensation mechanism has probably seized and/or corroded (that bit on the top of the pump, 4x screws & connected to a pipe).
An easy way of checking is to simply pop off the screws, underneath there should be a rubber diaphragm, with a nut in the middle. If you give this a shove with your finger, it should be sprung loaded and move freely.
If it has seized, we'll move onto the next stage of un-seizing... If it's fine, there's probably something else, such as a gunked up intercooler, etc.
M
camel_landy said:
IMO - It's your fuel injector pump.
The boost compensation mechanism has probably seized and/or corroded (that bit on the top of the pump, 4x screws & connected to a pipe).
An easy way of checking is to simply pop off the screws, underneath there should be a rubber diaphragm, with a nut in the middle. If you give this a shove with your finger, it should be sprung loaded and move freely.
If it has seized, we'll move onto the next stage of un-seizing... If it's fine, there's probably something else, such as a gunked up intercooler, etc.
M
Good suggestion, thank you!The boost compensation mechanism has probably seized and/or corroded (that bit on the top of the pump, 4x screws & connected to a pipe).
An easy way of checking is to simply pop off the screws, underneath there should be a rubber diaphragm, with a nut in the middle. If you give this a shove with your finger, it should be sprung loaded and move freely.
If it has seized, we'll move onto the next stage of un-seizing... If it's fine, there's probably something else, such as a gunked up intercooler, etc.
M
Music101 said:
Why would you want to remove the catalytic converter?
I mean if people only made modifications when something was actually causing a problem then maybe the government wouldn't be doing an anti tampering consultation right now.
In your opinion what is the bigger environmental problem - a vehicle with poorly functioning emissions control equipment doing 25mpg or one with no emissions control equipment doing 28-32mpg?I mean if people only made modifications when something was actually causing a problem then maybe the government wouldn't be doing an anti tampering consultation right now.
Edited by Music101 on Monday 10th January 08:46
All my tdi tractor owning mates have removed their egrs and blanked the stuff off.
Pipework is there for the mot test but given one passed with led bulbs fitted to headlights… I suspect they aren’t checking the minor bits as closely as the main stuff like supertanker size leaks and rust.
Personally, blank off, clean up the pipes and refit the pipes for the visual inspection.
A couple have bigger intercoolers and boost pins for the pump which does make a good difference to performance.
Pipework is there for the mot test but given one passed with led bulbs fitted to headlights… I suspect they aren’t checking the minor bits as closely as the main stuff like supertanker size leaks and rust.
Personally, blank off, clean up the pipes and refit the pipes for the visual inspection.
A couple have bigger intercoolers and boost pins for the pump which does make a good difference to performance.
Thank you for the suggestions - keep them coming!
It's in for timing belt replacement this week, the mechanic found more oil than is acceptable in the turbocharger output pipe with the compressor wheel having quite a bit of play.
Given the cost of a direct replacement, what would a cost-effective upgrade be?
Buy once-cry once..
Something like this perhaps?
"Land Rover Defender 300tdi Turbo Upgrade Hybrid Turbo"
It's in for timing belt replacement this week, the mechanic found more oil than is acceptable in the turbocharger output pipe with the compressor wheel having quite a bit of play.
Given the cost of a direct replacement, what would a cost-effective upgrade be?
Buy once-cry once..
Something like this perhaps?
"Land Rover Defender 300tdi Turbo Upgrade Hybrid Turbo"
Don't fancy having a crack at the belt yourself, it's quite easy? 
As for that turbo, there is supposed to be some play anyway... Why not park both cars together and compare? Before shelling out too much, it might be worth simply flushing all the hoses & intercooler, then just keep an eye on it.
M
As for that turbo, there is supposed to be some play anyway... Why not park both cars together and compare? Before shelling out too much, it might be worth simply flushing all the hoses & intercooler, then just keep an eye on it.
M
camel_landy said:
Don't fancy having a crack at the belt yourself, it's quite easy?
As for that turbo, there is supposed to be some play anyway... Why not park both cars together and compare? Before shelling out too much, it might be worth simply flushing all the hoses & intercooler, then just keep an eye on it.
M
No space or time.As for that turbo, there is supposed to be some play anyway... Why not park both cars together and compare? Before shelling out too much, it might be worth simply flushing all the hoses & intercooler, then just keep an eye on it.
M
I can't fit it in my garage to do when the weather is inclement or it is dark. Bit tricky to get them together but not a bad suggestion.
The garage advised me of the wear, it might be OK but the aim of this service is to remove any worried for the next 50,000 miles.
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