Should I buy it? Range Rover Sport 2.7 TDV6 S 5d Auto 2008

Should I buy it? Range Rover Sport 2.7 TDV6 S 5d Auto 2008

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Discussion

markp11

Original Poster:

4 posts

39 months

Tuesday 2nd November 2021
quotequote all
Hello all

I was hoping you could advise me on this potential purchase and the already known issues please.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202109277...

Known issues:
1) Left suspension value not releasing - when I sat in it, it seemed to work fine but might have got lucky. I've read suspension is a thing to look out for so could do with advise on this!
2) Parking brake seized - Dealer said previous owner never used it, just left it in park so it seized up.
3) Bonnet open - it said this on the dashboard - confirmed it was shut.

Dealer said he priced it lower due to the above issues which he said may cost around £600 to fix. Is this accurate?
He said he wasn't aware of bonnet open warning but probably a sensor issue. Has had new timing and fan belt.

Mileage:118k
Serviced History from log book:
A Service @ 22k
B Service @ 39k
A Service @ 57k
B Service @ 81k

Said it's recently been serviced but nothing in log book so question marks there as theres nearly 40k miles without proof of service. I'll be sure to ask about this.

Any advice on this really welcome. Thanks

Poshbury

720 posts

126 months

Tuesday 2nd November 2021
quotequote all
If it's been serviced by a main dealer or an Indy, the later service record might be online.
Here's a link, but you would need the VIN to be able to check; https://osh.landrover.com/

markp11

Original Poster:

4 posts

39 months

Tuesday 2nd November 2021
quotequote all
Amstrong Massey in York so that's Indy right? I'll ask for the VIN tomorrow.

Is there anything specific I can check about the suspension etc? I'm thinking of paying a mechanic to come with me to look it over.

camel_landy

5,088 posts

190 months

Tuesday 2nd November 2021
quotequote all
  • The bonnet is easy... It's just a switch. Fit a new one and you're done (£25-£30).
  • Suspension - Almost certainly a knackered air compressor. They're approx £800 + fitting.
  • Park brake - Yep, people often don't bother to use them. Do a search for "Bodsy's Brake Bible" and it'll tell you all you need to know about sorting any brake problems (This RRS is essentially the same as the D3 underneath).
Otherwise, the other biggie is the timing belts as that's a rather involved process and due at circa 115,000 miles.

HTH

M

markp11

Original Poster:

4 posts

39 months

Tuesday 2nd November 2021
quotequote all
Oh this sounds great then. It's just had the timing belt done. So really, the suspension is the main thing which is £800 plus labour.

So the question is, is it better to get this car, get the repair done and feel safe in the knowledge the 'big stuff' is taken care of?
Or go for something that might be £1k more but with a clean bill of health?

I'm leaning towards the first as the suspension could go at any time even with a £20k car right?

anonymous-user

61 months

Tuesday 2nd November 2021
quotequote all
Personally I’d look for one with evidence of full history, there’s no reason for it not to have it, unless it’s been run on a shoestring. These things can be ruinous if you don’t stay on top of maintenance.

As well as cam belt, check for lower suspension arms as they also need doing about 100k

Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 2nd November 18:25

camel_landy

5,088 posts

190 months

Tuesday 2nd November 2021
quotequote all
markp11 said:
So the question is, is it better to get this car, get the repair done and feel safe in the knowledge the 'big stuff' is taken care of?
Big stuff can go at any time...

M

A.J.M

8,017 posts

193 months

Tuesday 2nd November 2021
quotequote all
You need the codes read properly for the suspension fault.

It can be a compressor, which is the big expense, or it could be a simple height sensor for £30 and calibration.
Or anything in between.

Hand brake will need stripped down, cleaned up, likely need shoes and then adjusted and set up correctly.

Then you need to use it to keep it happy. Too many never use it so it jams up from lack of use.

Bonnet is a sensor. Cheap fix.

It says the belt has been done. It doesn’t say if the oil pump has been changed.
That rings alarm bells for me as it’s recommended to change the pump at every belt change.

It’s also an S spec so rather sparse.

I would look elsewhere, Plenty of better maintained examples out there.

Edited by A.J.M on Tuesday 2nd November 21:38

bakerstreet

4,827 posts

172 months

Wednesday 3rd November 2021
quotequote all
markp11 said:
Hello all

I was hoping you could advise me on this potential purchase and the already known issues please.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202109277...

Known issues:
1) Left suspension value not releasing - when I sat in it, it seemed to work fine but might have got lucky. I've read suspension is a thing to look out for so could do with advise on this!
2) Parking brake seized - Dealer said previous owner never used it, just left it in park so it seized up.
3) Bonnet open - it said this on the dashboard - confirmed it was shut.

Dealer said he priced it lower due to the above issues which he said may cost around £600 to fix. Is this accurate?
He said he wasn't aware of bonnet open warning but probably a sensor issue. Has had new timing and fan belt.

Mileage:118k
Serviced History from log book:
A Service @ 22k
B Service @ 39k
A Service @ 57k
B Service @ 81k

Said it's recently been serviced but nothing in log book so question marks there as theres nearly 40k miles without proof of service. I'll be sure to ask about this.

Any advice on this really welcome. Thanks
I would not buy it.

Its an incredibly undesirable spec before you have even considered the faults. a Range Rover without heated seats would be the last option for many RR buyers.

Parking Brake
May just need releasing using the cable next to the gearstick, but if the previous moron owner has followed the old school out of date advice of not using the EPB then the entire unit could be screwed, so budget £1200 for a rebuilt as a worse case scenario. The EPB is a fricking nightmare on the D3/RRS.

Suspension
Any number of things
Compressor burned out
Any number of sensors
One of the three valvle blocks
air tank corrosion

Using the parts cannon for fixing the suspension can be a very bad ide as if its a leak and they just swap out a burned out comprpressor, the compressor will just burn out again and you are down £600!

Bonnet is just a switch but it does affect the central locking and alarm if the system cant successfully detect if its been correctly closed. Common issue too.

Cambelts are 7 years and/or 107k and budget £600-800 and allow for the oil pump to be changed as well.

Also, I bet the Torque converter is on its way out and you wont be able to test that without a test drive. Check for fluctuations on the rev gauge or any rumblings when under load as that is £1200 right there

Also check if it can be started in cold conditions. Glow plugs fail on these and people fit remote timers instead as its cheaper than replacing the glow plugs


Edited by bakerstreet on Wednesday 3rd November 16:25

markp11

Original Poster:

4 posts

39 months

Wednesday 3rd November 2021
quotequote all
Wow thanks guys, really opened my eyes on this one. I'll be staying clear!

I'll check with you guys first but would the AA or RAC do a comprehensive check for the stuff you mentioned or am I better off finding a local specialist who will check it all for me? If so where would I find someone and how much should I be looking to pay? I've looked on Facebook but get a bit lost in the group searches.

Thanks

bakerstreet

4,827 posts

172 months

Wednesday 3rd November 2021
quotequote all
Inspection will be about £100-120, but what happens if it can't be driven!?!

Inspection will miss a few key points if it can't be driven.

Just spend £7.5k and but something better that actually works.


anonymous-user

61 months

Wednesday 3rd November 2021
quotequote all
markp11 said:
Wow thanks guys, really opened my eyes on this one. I'll be staying clear!

I'll check with you guys first but would the AA or RAC do a comprehensive check for the stuff you mentioned or am I better off finding a local specialist who will check it all for me? If so where would I find someone and how much should I be looking to pay? I've looked on Facebook but get a bit lost in the group searches.

Thanks
Funny enough, the fact that so many of us are saying the same thing tells you that it’s a finite list of things that go wrong and they are well understood.

It’s not that they are unreliable but they are heavy, complex cars, that won’t cost the same as a Fiesta to run. Accept that and they are great.

To be honest I would buy from a reputable indie Land Rover specialist with a warranty. It’s the safest way.






Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 3rd November 19:11

Register1

2,279 posts

101 months

Wednesday 3rd November 2021
quotequote all
Picture 24 seems to show a ripped drivers bolster.
Possibly conveniently missed off or cropped out ?