Defender 110 and 90 tyre pressure help
Discussion
I was running the recommended tyre pressures on my 2016 110 (same tyre size as yours) but found the ride very uncomfortable. I searched various forums, there are many differing views on the subject but many owners seem to find the recommended tyre pressures of 48 PSI/3.3 BAR at the rear too high.
So I asked my dealer for advice, he told me to stick to the recommended pressures, JLR Classic said the same.
Finally JE ENGINEERING/JE MOTORWORKS recommended running 2.4 BAR/35 PSI alround, it does improve the ride quality.
If loaded I would increase the rear to 2.7BAR/39 PSI.
For the 90, these must be different, why don't you drop JE an email?
I hope this helps!
Stay healthy, stay safe, stay home.
So I asked my dealer for advice, he told me to stick to the recommended pressures, JLR Classic said the same.
Finally JE ENGINEERING/JE MOTORWORKS recommended running 2.4 BAR/35 PSI alround, it does improve the ride quality.
If loaded I would increase the rear to 2.7BAR/39 PSI.
For the 90, these must be different, why don't you drop JE an email?
I hope this helps!
Stay healthy, stay safe, stay home.
Edited by CSK1 on Saturday 18th April 23:47
CSK1 said:
I was running the recommended tyre pressures on my 2016 110 (same tyre size as yours) but found the ride very uncomfortable. I searched various forums, there are many differing views on the subject but many owners seem to find the recommended tyre pressures of 48 PSI/3.3 BAR at the rear too high.
So I asked my dealer for advice, he told me to stick to the recommended pressures, JLR Classic said the same.
Finally JE ENGINEERING/JE MOTORWORKS recommended running 2.4 BAR/35 PSI alround, it does improve the ride quality.
Does your 110 have the suspension without the Boge self-levelling strut? At 2016 I would guess so.So I asked my dealer for advice, he told me to stick to the recommended pressures, JLR Classic said the same.
Finally JE ENGINEERING/JE MOTORWORKS recommended running 2.4 BAR/35 PSI alround, it does improve the ride quality.
Edited by CSK1 on Saturday 18th April 23:47
If that is the case it could be that being unladen, the higher spring rate, along with correct rear tyre pressures make the back of the vehicle too stiff.
My '96 110 has self-levelling suspension which also has (well-used) standard springs and rides nicely with 30 PSI front / 50 PSI rear.
Needed tyrepressure is all about weight on seperate tyres and maximum speed, you wont go over for even a minute.
Or better , so not any part of tyre reaches a temperature, at wich the rubber hardens and beginning crackes are created.
Once this damage is done, mechanical forces, by the bending of the rubber by the deflecting and flexing back of every segment of tire , about 10 times a second when driving about 80kmph/50mph. destroys the tyre further, untill mayby only after 3 years that far, that tire blows or treath-separation. Then the moment that the beginning damage is done, is long forgotten.
So this overheating must never happen in the livetime of the tire.
Nowadays the car-and tyre-maker are responcible for preventing this tire-failure, so advices are kept verry high mostly. Also better milage at to high pressure.
But if you know what you are doing, with my help, you can determine a pressure, wich is safe , with max reserve and still acceptable comfort and gripp.
Probably this is for your loading and speed about 30 to 35 psi, but give weights and max speed used, and I will calculate.
Determining the weights, is the most tricky part in it all.
Or better , so not any part of tyre reaches a temperature, at wich the rubber hardens and beginning crackes are created.
Once this damage is done, mechanical forces, by the bending of the rubber by the deflecting and flexing back of every segment of tire , about 10 times a second when driving about 80kmph/50mph. destroys the tyre further, untill mayby only after 3 years that far, that tire blows or treath-separation. Then the moment that the beginning damage is done, is long forgotten.
So this overheating must never happen in the livetime of the tire.
Nowadays the car-and tyre-maker are responcible for preventing this tire-failure, so advices are kept verry high mostly. Also better milage at to high pressure.
But if you know what you are doing, with my help, you can determine a pressure, wich is safe , with max reserve and still acceptable comfort and gripp.
Probably this is for your loading and speed about 30 to 35 psi, but give weights and max speed used, and I will calculate.
Determining the weights, is the most tricky part in it all.
Edited by Jadatis on Sunday 19th April 11:43
Both been sat unused for last three weeks so wife wants to use for a food run. The rears on both looked a little sad and I didn’t have the chance to over pressurize them before the enforced lockdown. If we use one of them I will check the pressures but can’t recall the recommended PSi
100SRV said:
Does your 110 have the suspension without the Boge self-levelling strut? At 2016 I would guess so.
If that is the case it could be that being unladen, the higher spring rate, along with correct rear tyre pressures make the back of the vehicle too stiff.
My '96 110 has self-levelling suspension which also has (well-used) standard springs and rides nicely with 30 PSI front / 50 PSI rear.
Don't know about self-levelling suspension but 50 PSI seems incredibly high!If that is the case it could be that being unladen, the higher spring rate, along with correct rear tyre pressures make the back of the vehicle too stiff.
My '96 110 has self-levelling suspension which also has (well-used) standard springs and rides nicely with 30 PSI front / 50 PSI rear.
100SRV said:
CSK1 said:
Don't know about self-levelling suspension but 50 PSI seems incredibly high!
Standard pressure for Defender 110 is 28 front and 48 rear for all conditions with 235/85R16 tyres.M
100SRV said:
CSK1 said:
Don't know about self-levelling suspension but 50 PSI seems incredibly high!
Standard pressure for Defender 110 is 28 front and 48 rear for all conditions with 235/85R16 tyres.I've been playing around with pressures a lot, running 35 alround suits me, I trust JE MOTORWORKS' advice, you can't question their experience working on Defenders.
If you're OK running even higher pressures than the already high recommended ones, why not, it's a free world!
C Lee Farquar said:
And obviously there are no standard pressures for 18" tyres on a Defender.
What he said ^If JE Engineering have given you advice that is great - might also be worth referring to the tyre manufacturer giving them the mass details for each axle (from weighbridge) to be sure. Michelin were very helpful with this on our modified vehicles (fire tenders).
I've ran 35 on my 285/65/18's from twisted for the last 4-5 years
started on the BFG's but moved to cooper Zeon LTZ in 285/60/r18 and still running 35 (although so much better on the road) and for the off road i do no difference.
Rides great, comfort springs, uprated arb, fox adjustable dampers.
started on the BFG's but moved to cooper Zeon LTZ in 285/60/r18 and still running 35 (although so much better on the road) and for the off road i do no difference.
Rides great, comfort springs, uprated arb, fox adjustable dampers.
Likeomg said:
I've ran 35 on my 285/65/18's from twisted for the last 4-5 years
started on the BFG's but moved to cooper Zeon LTZ in 285/60/r18 and still running 35 (although so much better on the road) and for the off road i do no difference.
Rides great, comfort springs, uprated arb, fox adjustable dampers.
The key there is the dampers, standard or pattern parts are valved for vehicles with standard wheel/tyre combination. Fox (are they Prolinx, OP?) are significantly better than standard as it is but can be revalved to suit the driver and wheel/tyre/spring combination.started on the BFG's but moved to cooper Zeon LTZ in 285/60/r18 and still running 35 (although so much better on the road) and for the off road i do no difference.
Rides great, comfort springs, uprated arb, fox adjustable dampers.
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