2006(ish) RRS costs?
Discussion
I appreciate this probably gets asked a lot, but I’ve been looking at an 06 2.7 TDI today, all looked fine, drove great etc, I’m just wondering what the ‘realistic’ running costs are like? Car will be used 30 miles a day commute, pretty much 50mph there and back. I see stories about the high costs etc but they’ve all been from years ago, have maintenance prices come down a bit?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
I ran a RR Sport for almost 8y from new
If there wasnt a fantastic indie just down the road Id have chopped it in a lot sooner
They are great cars, I miss ours
Check out the following:
www.rrsport.co.uk
Cheers
Have just sold a disco 3 after nearly 12 years. It was always an expensive car to run ie pretty poor mpg, regular issues, heavy car = tyres and brakes etc. Even with a good indie they aren’t cheap to run. If you really need a big heavy 4x4 eg for towing or driving off road then they are fab and maybe worth the costs. If you don’t really need a 4x4 then you can own a much newer car for the same total cost of ownership.
I have a 2005 RRS owned from new & its on 110k. I get servicing done at an indie. Fingers crossed I've yet to have any real nasty surprises. Excluding tyres which are very dependent on the type of driving you do, I reckon an average of 500quid p.a. in servicing & repairs. I can't recall any bill over a grand.
At that year (same as my shed, 4.2SC) it's starting to get to the age where one-off bills might start coming in as various components reach the end of their life. To some this will mean it's an unreliable heap, to others it will be a car that needs age-related maintenance to uphold reliability.
Mine is on around 120k miles now. Recent mechanical expenditure over the past few years (not all at once!) has included air springs, compressor and reservoir, a new battery, four discs, aux water pump, wheelbearings, rear prop, drop links, balljoints and polybushes. Not to mention the annual consumables and the new seat cushion.
Nothing too concerning and all to be expected on a twelve year old leggy car. Some would consider that to mean my car is an unreliable clunker, but I see it as being ready for another twelve years/120k miles as it feels really tight and slick now. It helps that I do my own spannering.
Trick is to buy one that's sorted - but mine's not for sale!
Mine is on around 120k miles now. Recent mechanical expenditure over the past few years (not all at once!) has included air springs, compressor and reservoir, a new battery, four discs, aux water pump, wheelbearings, rear prop, drop links, balljoints and polybushes. Not to mention the annual consumables and the new seat cushion.
Nothing too concerning and all to be expected on a twelve year old leggy car. Some would consider that to mean my car is an unreliable clunker, but I see it as being ready for another twelve years/120k miles as it feels really tight and slick now. It helps that I do my own spannering.
Trick is to buy one that's sorted - but mine's not for sale!
That’s my way of thinking, but I don’t know whether I’m just trying to justify it to myself! (Telling myself what I want to hear) but yes I see it that I’d be buying a 12/13 year old car which obviously due to age will need replacement parts just like a 12/13 year old Astra would do (although more expensive) fuel consumption wasn’t really a factor in my search as I would say I have a relatively short mon-fri commute of 20-30 miles a day, then at the weekend if we go anywhere we take my wife’s 2012 Focus ST. As I said I’d tried to get some more info on running costs etc but most things I’ve found were from 2011 and obviously that was 8 years ago so was wondering if the prices had either gone up or down since the prices given back then.
I have just sold my Disco 3 (Same car underneath) due to running costs. Mine also had a huge service history when I bought it too. Mine has wanted for nothing in the two and half years I've had it and I'll tell you what I tell everyone else, budget a grand a year for maintenance and below is a few things to be aware of.
- Don't factor anything more than 25mpg. Remap might net you a bit more but don't count on it. Will improve throttle response though.
- Parking brake. I have sunk nearly a grand into maintaining mine and its still on the original actuator which is good going. Budget £1500 if that goes tits up.
- EGR, Turbo and injectors can go as per all modern diesels really.
- Torque Converts can go. Thats very common and budget £1200 to fix that if your lucky it won't have screwed the gearbox and that is another £2500 (Inc. Torque Converter)
- Glow plugs. Indies have got much better at getting them out, but you could still face a £2k bill if the job goes completely tits up and you have to take the body off along with the heads. However, this is rare these days and budget around £800 to change them all. 6mm heads so they snap quit easily. My local Indie (Not the most experienced or the most established) now turns them down as a job
- Want a modern stereo with Apple Play etc, budget £500-£800 to do it with the decent fibre adapters to keep the HK Amp.
- Suspension arms go with age and that is £500 per pair. Once again the decent indies are skilled at this now.
Rust is also becoming an issue now and its in places where you cant really see it. Under the wheel arch liners and the sills are the main areas of concern.
If you can spanner your self, then that is great, but I have never been confident enough to do it, so I've done oil and filter changes myself and that is it. Brakes are easy to change and the parts are dirt cheap too. (£27 for discs and they are big at something like 320mm)
However on its day, the car was superb, but £115 per month on fuel was becoming tiresome and I'm only doing 500 miles a year. I also kept saying I would mod it, if it could manage 6 months without issue. best it ever did was 8 months I think. I will miss the D3 community, but I still have my much loved series which I have been working on for 7 years on and off and this year it will be going on the road.
- Don't factor anything more than 25mpg. Remap might net you a bit more but don't count on it. Will improve throttle response though.
- Parking brake. I have sunk nearly a grand into maintaining mine and its still on the original actuator which is good going. Budget £1500 if that goes tits up.
- EGR, Turbo and injectors can go as per all modern diesels really.
- Torque Converts can go. Thats very common and budget £1200 to fix that if your lucky it won't have screwed the gearbox and that is another £2500 (Inc. Torque Converter)
- Glow plugs. Indies have got much better at getting them out, but you could still face a £2k bill if the job goes completely tits up and you have to take the body off along with the heads. However, this is rare these days and budget around £800 to change them all. 6mm heads so they snap quit easily. My local Indie (Not the most experienced or the most established) now turns them down as a job
- Want a modern stereo with Apple Play etc, budget £500-£800 to do it with the decent fibre adapters to keep the HK Amp.
- Suspension arms go with age and that is £500 per pair. Once again the decent indies are skilled at this now.
Rust is also becoming an issue now and its in places where you cant really see it. Under the wheel arch liners and the sills are the main areas of concern.
If you can spanner your self, then that is great, but I have never been confident enough to do it, so I've done oil and filter changes myself and that is it. Brakes are easy to change and the parts are dirt cheap too. (£27 for discs and they are big at something like 320mm)
However on its day, the car was superb, but £115 per month on fuel was becoming tiresome and I'm only doing 500 miles a year. I also kept saying I would mod it, if it could manage 6 months without issue. best it ever did was 8 months I think. I will miss the D3 community, but I still have my much loved series which I have been working on for 7 years on and off and this year it will be going on the road.
The post above is exactly my experience but with a few things to add eg blew an ecu, rear hatch latch handle kept needing replacement etc
Having glow plugs removed went well with an indie. Before that the car wouldn’t start when in was cold and snowing.
Finally the turbo is always a worry. Replacement means a body off exercise.
Having glow plugs removed went well with an indie. Before that the car wouldn’t start when in was cold and snowing.
Finally the turbo is always a worry. Replacement means a body off exercise.
Body off is meh as a decent Indy can have the body off in an hour and a half.
Turbo can be done with body on, but it will take longer.
Think the going rate is around £1200 for a new turbo fitted and some independents won't fit recon either.
The TDV6 is also pretty low stress and by the cars very nature they don't get thrashed so turbos can last pretty well. Mine is on 184k and shows no sign of iminent turbo failure.
Many people fit Remote Timers for the fuel burning heater to combat the glow plugs problem as it's cheaper than body off heads job if the glow plugs removal really goes very wrong.
Hkwever, I personally think spraying the plugs with WD40 over a week and then handing it to the garage to try the plugs is a better route compared to the timer. I have the timer and it's not been 100% reliable.
People will say the EGR blank will improve throttle response. The difference is negligible IMO. I had it done for reliability as I didn't want something else to cause an issue.
I changed the oil on mine yearly (5k) People will bang on about this being critical to keeping them running well. Watch the D3 FB group and I can alsmot guarantee, that most of the issues you will see are nothing to do with how often the oil is changed.
Suspension can also be a nightmarr on D3s. Valve blocks can fail and air tanks corrodr and no longer seal. Many will also sink to the bump stops over a few days due to a small leak. One independent that I used said it wasn't even worth investigating as it could be hours before you even find a fault.
Suspension Compressor is common failure point, but at least it being LR, they are only £300-400. My cousin's Q7 was something daft like £1500!!
Off road they are in a Leage of their own. There is no other word to describe it really. Execellen tow cars too. Mine pulled my series and it barely broke a sweat carrying a shade over 2000Kg.
Be aware that values are plummeting though. Big diesel 4x4s are not flavour of the month and I was speaking to a trader today and he won't go anywhere near one as a forecourt car. Too much of a headache. Even my local LR Independent hates them and runs a land cruiser.
One of regular garage posters on the FB group drives a leased mercedes. Make of that what you will.
Turbo can be done with body on, but it will take longer.
Think the going rate is around £1200 for a new turbo fitted and some independents won't fit recon either.
The TDV6 is also pretty low stress and by the cars very nature they don't get thrashed so turbos can last pretty well. Mine is on 184k and shows no sign of iminent turbo failure.
Many people fit Remote Timers for the fuel burning heater to combat the glow plugs problem as it's cheaper than body off heads job if the glow plugs removal really goes very wrong.
Hkwever, I personally think spraying the plugs with WD40 over a week and then handing it to the garage to try the plugs is a better route compared to the timer. I have the timer and it's not been 100% reliable.
People will say the EGR blank will improve throttle response. The difference is negligible IMO. I had it done for reliability as I didn't want something else to cause an issue.
I changed the oil on mine yearly (5k) People will bang on about this being critical to keeping them running well. Watch the D3 FB group and I can alsmot guarantee, that most of the issues you will see are nothing to do with how often the oil is changed.
Suspension can also be a nightmarr on D3s. Valve blocks can fail and air tanks corrodr and no longer seal. Many will also sink to the bump stops over a few days due to a small leak. One independent that I used said it wasn't even worth investigating as it could be hours before you even find a fault.
Suspension Compressor is common failure point, but at least it being LR, they are only £300-400. My cousin's Q7 was something daft like £1500!!
Off road they are in a Leage of their own. There is no other word to describe it really. Execellen tow cars too. Mine pulled my series and it barely broke a sweat carrying a shade over 2000Kg.
Be aware that values are plummeting though. Big diesel 4x4s are not flavour of the month and I was speaking to a trader today and he won't go anywhere near one as a forecourt car. Too much of a headache. Even my local LR Independent hates them and runs a land cruiser.
One of regular garage posters on the FB group drives a leased mercedes. Make of that what you will.
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