P38 Appreciation thread
Discussion
It will be interesting to see how much interest this thread gets (probably nothing) I am looking at getting into one soon and I wondered what peoples current thoughts were.
I think they are starting to age quite nicely and seem to be quite the bargain, I have read that the electrics is a pain in the backside as is the suspension but there are also some people who seem to have them with few issuesl.
I like them and am going to have a go in one as I have now sold my classic and see how it goes. Anyway would love to hear any good news stories or pictures to make me feel a little better
Also there doesnt seem to be many places with much current info on them, few older threads but wondered if its just me who seems to think they seem to have a certain charm.
I think they are starting to age quite nicely and seem to be quite the bargain, I have read that the electrics is a pain in the backside as is the suspension but there are also some people who seem to have them with few issuesl.
I like them and am going to have a go in one as I have now sold my classic and see how it goes. Anyway would love to hear any good news stories or pictures to make me feel a little better
Also there doesnt seem to be many places with much current info on them, few older threads but wondered if its just me who seems to think they seem to have a certain charm.
They have a hideous reputation and rightly so.
However, I think their following is starting to increase. I think this is mainly because the supply of previous generation Land Rovers is starting to dwindle and at least the P38 has a solid chassis and body. LR had at least got that bit right.
I've also seen several modified for off road, which is something that I thought I would never see.
However, I think their following is starting to increase. I think this is mainly because the supply of previous generation Land Rovers is starting to dwindle and at least the P38 has a solid chassis and body. LR had at least got that bit right.
I've also seen several modified for off road, which is something that I thought I would never see.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-LAND-ROVER-RANGE-R...
Thought this looked nice also heard that the air suspension although a pain isnt that hard to fix?
Thought this looked nice also heard that the air suspension although a pain isnt that hard to fix?
How much??Purso said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-LAND-ROVER-RANGE-R...
Thought this looked nice also heard that the air suspension although a pain isnt that hard to fix?
For mine the vast majority of the time it just needed resetting which can be done either via a cable and software (£20 on Ebay) or a little box of tricks called an EAS kicker which is about £80. Thought this looked nice also heard that the air suspension although a pain isnt that hard to fix?
Had a 2001 P38 vogue for over 8 years now. It can be a money pit and it drinks like a fish. But mine has been excellent - maybe I have been lucky? I have done a fair amount of work on it over the years, but nothing on its own needed to be expensive (however, sometimes the expensive parts are better - like the Arnott gen 3 air springs)
The air suspension isn't difficult to work on, and most of the problems are (in my expeience) o ring or air spring related.
I refreshed the engine this year (cam kit, all bearings and oil seals) after 120k miles. The bearings would have gone further, but the cam was extremely used, so it was worth the time.
The worst thing I have ever done are the heater matrix o-rings and HVAC blend motors. On a UK model it involves dash removal.
Everything else has been the usual "old car" type jobs.
The post 2000 P38s do indeed seem better - the v8 engine has a bit more torque and the BECM and engine management seem more reliable so far... (I am bound to have jinxed it now!)
RangeRovers.net is a very useful resource for figuring out how to do these jobs.
I've often thought about swapping for a newer Range Rover, but they are considerably bigger now and a new one won't do anything I need to do with it much better than the one I have, other than use less fuel. And of course, with threads like this, it will be a classic in no time...
The air suspension isn't difficult to work on, and most of the problems are (in my expeience) o ring or air spring related.
I refreshed the engine this year (cam kit, all bearings and oil seals) after 120k miles. The bearings would have gone further, but the cam was extremely used, so it was worth the time.
The worst thing I have ever done are the heater matrix o-rings and HVAC blend motors. On a UK model it involves dash removal.
Everything else has been the usual "old car" type jobs.
The post 2000 P38s do indeed seem better - the v8 engine has a bit more torque and the BECM and engine management seem more reliable so far... (I am bound to have jinxed it now!)
RangeRovers.net is a very useful resource for figuring out how to do these jobs.
I've often thought about swapping for a newer Range Rover, but they are considerably bigger now and a new one won't do anything I need to do with it much better than the one I have, other than use less fuel. And of course, with threads like this, it will be a classic in no time...
I’ve owned three and they haven’t been the money pits people make out - but I do my own repairs, which is the key difference.
Had the dash out for o-rings and blend motors on the old one and my current one has had the dashboard out TWICE now.
First time was heater o rings and and possibly blend motor. I replaced the entire matrix, but I started leaking around the seals again this year and another blend motor went, so I had the dash out again.
Taking the dash out is quicker than hacking holes into advocated by some guides. Once you have the glovebox and air bag out, theres only 4 bolts along the top that hold it in and a load of self tappers around the heater area.
Given there’s nothing wrong with mine, i would really like to put it into storage for the future.
I would avoid the pre facelift ones - the engine and box are better on the bosch(thor) based my2000 cars - they have more torque and the box is in the right gear more of the time, this is because the box is using the CAN bus for engine load rather than a simple signal on the earlier gems based engine.
I have a buyers guide via my profile and notes on dash removal.
Had the dash out for o-rings and blend motors on the old one and my current one has had the dashboard out TWICE now.
First time was heater o rings and and possibly blend motor. I replaced the entire matrix, but I started leaking around the seals again this year and another blend motor went, so I had the dash out again.
Taking the dash out is quicker than hacking holes into advocated by some guides. Once you have the glovebox and air bag out, theres only 4 bolts along the top that hold it in and a load of self tappers around the heater area.
Given there’s nothing wrong with mine, i would really like to put it into storage for the future.
I would avoid the pre facelift ones - the engine and box are better on the bosch(thor) based my2000 cars - they have more torque and the box is in the right gear more of the time, this is because the box is using the CAN bus for engine load rather than a simple signal on the earlier gems based engine.
I have a buyers guide via my profile and notes on dash removal.
I have a ‘98 4.6 on LPG and love it. I bought it in April, from a guy who had done some work on my E Type, and had looked after it well.
They’re complex cars for their age, but not so by modern standards.
They’re a sensible usable classic if you’re handy with the spanners, and ideally have a decent scanner to read any fault codes......and accept it’s a 20 year car, which will go wrong occasionally.
The good bits are that there is loads of online help, and several
Forums plus a brilliant Facebook group to help out, and spares via specialist breakers are very cheap.
It was amazing in the snow last week, and I almost always use it in preference to my ‘modern’ Jaguar XJ.
Definitely a classic in the making, and a cheaper option to run than an early L322
They’re complex cars for their age, but not so by modern standards.
They’re a sensible usable classic if you’re handy with the spanners, and ideally have a decent scanner to read any fault codes......and accept it’s a 20 year car, which will go wrong occasionally.
The good bits are that there is loads of online help, and several
Forums plus a brilliant Facebook group to help out, and spares via specialist breakers are very cheap.
It was amazing in the snow last week, and I almost always use it in preference to my ‘modern’ Jaguar XJ.
Definitely a classic in the making, and a cheaper option to run than an early L322
SWMBO has had 2 4.6's over the years and now on a 4.2 s/c l322.
The P38's were a 97 which went to 105k miles in our ownership and a 2002 which went to 72k miles.
Both had heater "O" ring issues which were fixed with Kalimex. 1 air bag out of 8 required replacement. Full set of Magnecor leads on the 97 when it started to run rough. Leads, cap and plugs cured that one. Apart from the crippling fuel consumption, that was about all the costs, apart from regular servicing and tyres. I seem to remember the 97 one needed a new cat and was used by Power Speed in Ashford as the blueprint. They were considering commercialising CAT's and so the one they made for ours was really cheap.
I liked the P38 but the l322 is light years ahead and a much better car.
The P38's were a 97 which went to 105k miles in our ownership and a 2002 which went to 72k miles.
Both had heater "O" ring issues which were fixed with Kalimex. 1 air bag out of 8 required replacement. Full set of Magnecor leads on the 97 when it started to run rough. Leads, cap and plugs cured that one. Apart from the crippling fuel consumption, that was about all the costs, apart from regular servicing and tyres. I seem to remember the 97 one needed a new cat and was used by Power Speed in Ashford as the blueprint. They were considering commercialising CAT's and so the one they made for ours was really cheap.
I liked the P38 but the l322 is light years ahead and a much better car.
rswift said:
I have a ‘98 4.6 on LPG and love it. I bought it in April, from a guy who had done some work on my E Type, and had looked after it well.
They’re complex cars for their age, but not so by modern standards.
They’re a sensible usable classic if you’re handy with the spanners, and ideally have a decent scanner to read any fault codes......and accept it’s a 20 year car, which will go wrong occasionally.
The good bits are that there is loads of online help, and several
Forums plus a brilliant Facebook group to help out, and spares via specialist breakers are very cheap.
It was amazing in the snow last week, and I almost always use it in preference to my ‘modern’ Jaguar XJ.
Definitely a classic in the making, and a cheaper option to run than an early L322
Not quite as handsome as an L322 IMO and the interior on the L322 was a master stroke by Land Rover. In beige and wood it looks simply superb. They’re complex cars for their age, but not so by modern standards.
They’re a sensible usable classic if you’re handy with the spanners, and ideally have a decent scanner to read any fault codes......and accept it’s a 20 year car, which will go wrong occasionally.
The good bits are that there is loads of online help, and several
Forums plus a brilliant Facebook group to help out, and spares via specialist breakers are very cheap.
It was amazing in the snow last week, and I almost always use it in preference to my ‘modern’ Jaguar XJ.
Definitely a classic in the making, and a cheaper option to run than an early L322
However, like many cars of that era, the ICE is very complex and expensive to upgrade. At least the P38 you can upgrade the stereo easily.
plasticpig said:
rswift said:
Definitely a classic in the making, and a cheaper option to run than an early L322
I went the other way and now have a soft dash Range Rover Classic . Which is far cheaper to keep on the road.I had a soft dash LSE.....always ran a 4x4 as a second Car, I dare say if I was to use it as an only car an L322 would be the way forward, but in reply to the OP....I think it’s rapidly hitting classic status, with some optimistically priced accordingly.
rswift said:
You can weld then !
I had a soft dash LSE.....always ran a 4x4 as a second Car, I dare say if I was to use it as an only car an L322 would be the way forward, but in reply to the OP....I think it’s rapidly hitting classic status, with some optimistically priced accordingly.
Nope it's smothered in waxoyl or similar. Actually the tailgate and rear panels need attention soonish but I now have a Disco 4 as a daily driver so I will probably sell the RRC. I had a soft dash LSE.....always ran a 4x4 as a second Car, I dare say if I was to use it as an only car an L322 would be the way forward, but in reply to the OP....I think it’s rapidly hitting classic status, with some optimistically priced accordingly.
I have just sold my classic and this is what I am considering as its replacement. I wonder if due to the age of the p38s people dont view them as a classic like the "classic" as they are still too new and yet they are old enough to have classic car related bills and get a bad name. My classic probably cost me circa 2.5k a year maintenance wise and if the p38 was the same I would be in the same place which is ok with me. Hopefully I am not tempting fate with my post on costs
I think they are fairly good looking with the Thor manifold cars to be the better buy simply as the later version as manufacturers tweak the cars over the production cycle.
Seems to be lots of advice available like most older Brit cars.
I’m myself currently considering a p38. As the prices are still reasonable for a good well maintained car. My classic will use more money to bring back to life and for half that I can have a good p38. That’s my man maths
Seems to be lots of advice available like most older Brit cars.
I’m myself currently considering a p38. As the prices are still reasonable for a good well maintained car. My classic will use more money to bring back to life and for half that I can have a good p38. That’s my man maths
It is possible that the P38's still running have had the majority of their failings fettled or worked round... e.g. have reached a 'steady state' so you might be lucky... I would only buy off an enthusiast..
I think a better option would be a reasonably priced Classic... still possible... or an early (2002-2003) L322.. a well maintained one owner.
I think a better option would be a reasonably priced Classic... still possible... or an early (2002-2003) L322.. a well maintained one owner.
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